What would you use? Brake pad advice

These are what the front brakes on the SRT look like right now, not at the squealer, but getting close. They have 24,000km on them (15,000 miles):
View attachment 141534

I figure the rotors are good for another set of pads, they aren't as chewed up as the one-piece ones on my 2016, these look pretty good still.

The dealer told me it's $3,000 to do the brakes, which, yeah, that's "typical" for this vehicle, you have to pay to play, but having brakes last like 30,000km, well, I'm curious if there are other options that might provide a bit longer pad life and be more cost effective.

I know there are a number of different pad brands out there that cater to the enthusiast market and will make pads that fit this application. The OE pads have an insane amount of bite, which in turn results in rapid wear.

So, what other options are BITOG'ers a fan of? And no @AutoMechanic it's not getting white box, lol.

I'm not trying to be cheap, and I'll buy OE if that's ultimately best, but I'm suspecting there's something that's a better balance of wear and bite available. @edyvw
Akebono or DBA's (Disc brakes Australia) would be my suggestion.
 
I know nothing about Chrysler/Jeep applications, but for late model Corvettes, many of us like

PowerStop Z26 ceramic pads for good street performance and low dusting.
Yep. Very popular on the Hellcat forums. I swapped out the Brembos for Z26's almost immediately on my cat after having the black wheels turn brown after every drive, The Brembos are superior for track use as they are less prone to fade after repeated hard braking. Not an issue on the street, though. Z23's are identical with rubber backing and potentially quieter, but the 26's haven't made any noise on my car.
 
This isn't confidence inspiring, note the application and location, lol:
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VS:
Screen Shot 2023-02-23 at 4.15.37 PM.jpg
 
OK, so, as you know, this is what I ended up going with.
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I don't have a lot of experience with them - but personal observation is they can fit poorly in some applications and there is a noticeable difference in braking performance between the first few stops (when cold) and once warmed up. To me, that is unacceptable - OE doesn't seem to have this issue.
I find mine have insane bite the first couple of stops, and then feel more normal after that. I think it's from the corrosion. They (the pads) rust to the rotors and if you leave them long enough, it takes a LOT of effort to get them unstuck. I'm sure the place across from me is wondering why I'm doing a brake torque in the driveway sometimes, lol.
So per your point @The Critic and mine, your observation and my observation kind of cancel each other out I guess?

As I noted, the OE pads would have ridiculous bite until they were "dusted off" in the AM, then they felt normal. These are the opposite. First stop or two is a bit softer, then they have normal bite after that.

My observations on pad "feel":
- They are smoother than OE with a bit more progressive bite. It's not a big difference, but it's an improvement IMHO. Braking is still insanely strong, you just feel like you have a bit better modulation.

My observations on noise:
- These are dead quiet. Quieter than OE.


Now, with refinished rotors, it'll be interesting to see how long both the rotors and the pads last. They claim longer pad and rotor life, so we'll see if that's true.
 
My observations on noise:
- These are dead quiet. Quieter than OE.
Give it a few thousand miles and wait until the ambient conditions are damp/wet. That is usually when a lot of pads get very noisy.

Now, with refinished rotors, it'll be interesting to see how long both the rotors and the pads last. They claim longer pad and rotor life, so we'll see if that's true.
Those are fixed calipers, correct? If those rotors were not refinished using an on-car brake lathe, pulsation may develop. Semi-metallic pads are usually more forgiving than ceramics in this area, but fixed calipers are very sensitive to rotor runout and on-car brake lathe is usually the only way to produce acceptable results.
 
I always buy brake rotors / pads from a low priced online dealership parts dept in another state and have them shipped to me.
OEM brake rotors and pads seem to last a lot longer for me than aftermarket ones.
 
Give it a few thousand miles and wait until the ambient conditions are damp/wet. That is usually when a lot of pads get very noisy.
OK, will do, thanks for the heads-up.
Those are fixed calipers, correct? If those rotors were not refinished using an on-car brake lathe, pulsation may develop. Semi-metallic pads are usually more forgiving than ceramics in this area, but fixed calipers are very sensitive to rotor runout and on-car brake lathe is usually the only way to produce acceptable results.
Dealership did it, I think it was on-car. And yes, fixed callipers.
 
I always buy brake rotors / pads from a low priced online dealership parts dept in another state and have them shipped to me.
OEM brake rotors and pads seem to last a lot longer for me than aftermarket ones.
OE pads were just under $1,000 and last about 18,000 miles. OE rotors are almost $2 grand, but were in good shape, hence them being reused.
 
Hope they gave you the measurements from after they were resurfaced.
It's probably on the invoice, I'll have to check. Unlike my 2016, which didn't have the 2-piece rotors, these seem to not wear as quickly. Those, I had the slots in the rotors totally worn off by the time the pads were done, which of course meant massive rotor wear, these still looked almost new, but the pads were cooked.
 
Reading through all this I just can't understand why just pads cost $1K. What rare material are they made of ?
 
Can't imagine paying $3k to do brakes on a vehicle that says Grand Cherokee on the side...
These are excellent vehicles and the OP's version is the SRT which is insanely fast and handles great but yeah that's like Ferrari priced brakes!
 
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