It (R&P) burned more than other oils for me too.
Valvoline R&P Oil Burner Test Results
- Thread starter Glenda W.
- Start date
It (R&P) burned more than other oils for me too.
That’s what I’m thinking, the consumption is not from a dirty/stuck oil control rings problem.
Agreed, going to run to max 50% OLM, which is around 5.5K KMs or ~3,400 miles, for 3-4 OCIs and then onto the 0w40 at full OLM.
Agreed. Glenda is a great source of knowledge and going above and beyond to help others on the forum.
She belongs in the elite list of subject matter experts on this forum.
Nice post. Please keep us posted in July once the 4 VRP oil changes are done.
The hope would be that you will get similar results as Glenda, with the 4 OCI of VRP reducing future oil consumption.
If the VRP has no effect on the oil consumption after 4 OCI, perhaps stuck piston rings are not the cause of the oil consumption.
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It's quite possible that Super Tech HMFS 5W-30 is a better oil than VRP (except for the cleaning aspect of VRP),
as the Super Tech (Warren Distribution) oil has been used for decades by members of BITOG and it's UOA's show it holds up well
with 5k to 11k OCI based on what I've read here on BITOG.
Why do you suppose he's burning oil after running boutiques?
Thanks for the compliments. I’m certainly not an expert and many here know much more than I do. But I do enjoy experimenting and digging into things(oil/filters). I will say I have common sense.
Honestly I’m not sure. It would be interesting to find out someday.
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It did the same to me with my 2012 Scion XB. I quit using it and went back to QS 5w30 and it has been using a lot less.
Unrelated most likely.
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I obviously abused my engine by not changing the oil every 3000 miles
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First Honda that I have ever had to add oil to between oil changes.
I’ve only had two Hondas. Owned after they were already high mileage, so no idea original consumption.
An old 92 Civic Hatchback with 290k. It was neglected by a PO and you could tell by how much soot and carbon was removed every oil change. It consumed about 1 Qt per 3k miles. When I got the clutch replaced, the rear main was done. I forget if it was good PM or was actually already leaking.
I’m less sure about my Honda Fit. It didn’t use oil when I bought it used; 156k miles, but quickly began to and developed a slow rear main seal leak. Is that the enough of a leak to be at the rate of 1 Qt per 4k? I did a few extended OCIs, at first on M1 AFE…which my BIL with the same car has superb UOAs of 18k and 21k miles. His too began to develop oil consumption; however, and does not appear to have a rear main leak.
So, I figure if Amsoil SS hasn’t effected a change in consumption by the time it’s due this fall; which will put it around 27k miles on this oil (2nd interval), then I will likely see if VRP has any impact on 5k mile intervals. Giving it a fair shot for 20k as the plan (about a year’s mileage currently).
When I buy a used car, I love to buy from some elderly couple who did 3k mile OCI (because that is what their generation was told to do).I obviously abused my engine by not changing the oil every 3000 miles
I still believe 3k mile OCI is best for any engine, especially if done with bulk oil as most oil changes are done with bulk oil nowadays.
Patman
Staff member
I would rather have a used car that did 6-10k intervals but with a higher quality synthetic, as opposed to one that had 3k intervals with bulk oil. The 6-10k OCI engine in this case would be much cleaner inside.
Dino oil can't take the high heat and can cause excessive deposits over time.
Wish they would stop selling dino oil entirely, the same way that bias ply tires became existinct in the 1980's.
In the last 10 years I have looked at perhaps 30 used cars. I check them out for myself and when my kids need a new [used] car. I look under the oil cap to see some part of the cams/head. All the cars have been remarkably clean and shiny inside. Invariably when I ask about oil changes they answer they just take it to the local oil change shop every 5.000 miles or so. This would be just bulk oil, synthetic or conventional. So in my experience this cheap oil does a good job at regular intervals. I haven't seen a car with dirty engine internals in 20 years or more. Maybe I'm just lucky.
I agree with this. Also, a vehicle owned by elderly folks can be a good choice if most maintenance was kept up.
the challenge is when it’s not driven much and when it is, driven short distances. Better to have a higher mileage if it’s regularly driven and has the maintenance kept up.
The one area usually benefited is in the vehicle’s appearance; if garaged. Ideally, a low mileage / elderly owned, is only in need of some cleaning of engine oil, transmission and fuel system without any failure risk from said often times dirtier systems.
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