What was causing the oil consumption?? Did he get it fixed?
Valvoline R&P Oil Burner Test Results
- Thread starter Glenda W.
- Start date
Latest video has him finally tearing down the engine to replace the pistons and rings with intentions to provide future updates.
I wouldn't. In my Volvo, at 5100 miles, TBN was down to something like 2.1 I believe.
There's at least one more video to this series, maybe two. It looks to me like the problem might have been the valve stem seals not installed properly?
The original problem was likely a combination of stuck rings and leaking valve stem seals.
The cleanliness of his rings was wild. I didn't know rings could be that clean! Even when Amsoil or Valvoline post their pistons/rings, they don't look that clean!
A quick update on my VRP experience: I just changed to the second round at 3500 miles. The oil that drained out looked brown but not black, only a few shades darker than the original amber color. Cut the oil filter open and found nothing of interest but a little bit of black at the bottom of the filter. Just a whisper. But as stated I don't expect much out of an engine with less than 40k miles. I've only jumped on the VRP bandwagon because it's a new product and I wanted to try it, not because I have a problem to solve.
The truck is a 2014 F250 with 6.2L V8.
With that said, I was really keen on seeing if the same noise reduction and drivability changes would return. And again, it's much quieter at start-up and the tip-in on the throttle is more responsive. I truly have no explanation for either, though I can believe the noise reduction might be a function of shear stability (sheared oil = more noise). The fact that the engine takes noticeably less throttle input to drive the same exact route is baffling.
Will let you all know when it returns to normal noise and throttle input. I'm trying to decide if I should stay with VRP (again, there is no problem here) or the next run should be something else.
The truck is a 2014 F250 with 6.2L V8.
With that said, I was really keen on seeing if the same noise reduction and drivability changes would return. And again, it's much quieter at start-up and the tip-in on the throttle is more responsive. I truly have no explanation for either, though I can believe the noise reduction might be a function of shear stability (sheared oil = more noise). The fact that the engine takes noticeably less throttle input to drive the same exact route is baffling.
Will let you all know when it returns to normal noise and throttle input. I'm trying to decide if I should stay with VRP (again, there is no problem here) or the next run should be something else.
Just to make sure I understand, his oil burning problem was multifactorial, and he resolved the stuck rings with a bunch of different flushes and oils, but the leaking valve stem seals persisted so he still burned oil?
It may shear, it felt like it.
I m 2k into my 2nd run, this time 5w-30. I’m on my 4th filter change though. The 3rd filter interval I thought it had lost lubricity honestly, but a new ph3600 and near quart of new oil she runs better than ever. Ford Duratec 2.3.
I would never run any oil 10k, VRP no exception.
I wonder which oils specifically can clean up varnish in an engine ? Valvoline Restore & Protect targets piston deposits while other synthrtic oils target sludge . It could be that VR&P also does a good job removing varnish but not has been said besides topics on piston / deposits .
Awesome!
3/4 quart is the natural consumption on boxer engines over its OCI. So I would say you got it to 100% factory. My EJ25 always burned 3/4 quart in 5k miles.
But, isn’t EP what got the rings stuck in the first place?
WiskyBadger
Site Donor 2025
This. Why wouldn’t you stick with what cleaned it up to stay clean?
Experimentation and curiosity. I have the perfect test subject. For the good of the community here.
Hard to know for sure, but probably the Valvoline EP is maybe what caused it based on the total percentage of miles it was run?
She is running M1 ESP not EP now to see if the rings stick again.
Thank you!
Yep, great thread... and may I add a little "How Dare You!"
Just when I've landed on my oil of choice for the 2.0 Turbos (M1 0w40), y'all get in my head about ring deposits and protecting this and restoring that...
And Yes, only a true Bitog'er would run across the border to upstate NY to buy out all the R&P at the local USA Walmart.
This 11 year old girl just finished a 3k run of ST5w30 after buying her recently. The engine is clean as a whistle though the filler cap, so this is just because of those darn evil coked up rings I can't see... it's like an invisible enemy and this is the only way I can fight them!
And @buster can now exit my head, stage left.
Ahem...
Just when I've landed on my oil of choice for the 2.0 Turbos (M1 0w40), y'all get in my head about ring deposits and protecting this and restoring that...
And Yes, only a true Bitog'er would run across the border to upstate NY to buy out all the R&P at the local USA Walmart.
This 11 year old girl just finished a 3k run of ST5w30 after buying her recently. The engine is clean as a whistle though the filler cap, so this is just because of those darn evil coked up rings I can't see... it's like an invisible enemy and this is the only way I can fight them!
And @buster can now exit my head, stage left.
Ahem...
Lol, same thing happened to me, except 3.0 turbo.
I let OCD get the best of me and tried to split the difference between ring cleaning, and HTHS, right or wrong I added Schaeffer's 132 Moly E.P. (read thick)
So looking forward to Glenda W's next round of testing.
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Despite not completing the recommended 4 VRP oil changes yet ( will be done by July ), I can report that my oil consumption has been noticeably HiGHER using VRP than any other brand I was using.
Burning 1 quart per 2200 miles with VRP ( 5w30 ) compared to going through a quart every 4000 miles with HPL PP 0w30 and 1 quart every 3000 miles with Amsoil SS 0w30.
It’s possible that the consumption would be higher with any oil as the mileage increases but I bet it will be lower when I switch back to my regular oils.
My regular oil will be HPL in this engine once I am finished with VRP due to the lowest oil consumption.
Thought some might be interested.
Burning 1 quart per 2200 miles with VRP ( 5w30 ) compared to going through a quart every 4000 miles with HPL PP 0w30 and 1 quart every 3000 miles with Amsoil SS 0w30.
It’s possible that the consumption would be higher with any oil as the mileage increases but I bet it will be lower when I switch back to my regular oils.
My regular oil will be HPL in this engine once I am finished with VRP due to the lowest oil consumption.
Thought some might be interested.
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I’m pretty certain R&P has more evaporated loss, is less shear resistant, and can’t handle much over a 5k interval. Especially compared to Amsoil and HPL. With all those oils I’d bet your engine is spotless!!
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