I know its mostly for keeping the rings clean which seems like a good idea with the low tension rings in modern engines but I wonder if using it from new could help prevent intake valve deposits on GDI motors. On the other hand without testing it may end up being worse without knowing what is doing the cleaning.
Why not use Valvoline R&P as the "forever oil"?
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In theory maybe a little bit. Hard to say. I'm curious about that as well.
What would you base the "being worse" on? Seems very unlikely.
Val Restore & PROTECT is probably my forever oil for my 07 Toy FJ 4.0L 1GRFE w/235k miles. It doesn't consume any oil but I'm sure it could use a little restorative cleaning action while being PROTECTED.
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Second oil change tomorrow with VRP ( no improvement in oil consumption ), two more oil changes to go and I will use it once a year after that if reduces the consumption eventually.
No reason not to use it all the time but I am going back to my regular oils later ( Amsoil and HPL ).
No reason not to use it all the time but I am going back to my regular oils later ( Amsoil and HPL ).
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Just put it in the Ranger at 65,000 miles. Going in the Honda cars when they're due. Bought the garage box with the intent to use it in everything forever. Meets all the specs I need between the 3 vehicles since I've been using 5W30 in the Honda\Acura now for a long time.
I find it interesting that posters are surprised finding dirty internals with their preferred synthetic oils run at 5K mile OCI’s … I’d be surprised too if I ran 5K mile OCI’s but I don’t - thanks to smart guys here who recommend my Hyundai 2.4L should be kept to a regiment of 3K to 3.5K OCI’s of which I mostly ran M1 . The result is a spotless dip stick which is varnish free and bright silver in color . PPPP and Castrol would probably perform similar with clean internals at lower OCI’s . Still , I will try VR&P but doubt I will require the suggested 4 oil changes to have a clean engine … Here’s to 4K mile max OCI’s for the majority of engines to keep them clean (lol !)
Yeah I don't get the confusion in it's intent from the marketing. These are first 2 bullet points.
In my case the internals are spotless on 5k oci’s but the piston rings aren’t. OTC synthetics were up to the task in keeping sludge and varnish at bay but couldn’t handle the heat in the piston ring area. IMO it’s poorly designed low tension rings with mediocre “synthetic” oil that’s the bad combination. The race to produce a cheaper oil that meets not so stringent approvals, mostly based on fuel economy doesn’t always work(totally engine dependent).
My next test will see if using an oil with more stringent approvals, focused more on wear and engine cleanliness will be up to the task in my oil burner. It’s going to be a long test as it took 60k miles to start burning oil in the first place.
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What kind of filter?
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
carquest premium. Premium guard XL
The unknown chemical and its reaction in mist or evaporated form to extreme temps without constant flow to wash it clean. It may be unlikely but without some tests it is still possible and I dont have a desire to be the guinea pig. This and the fact that they are not saying anything about GDI intake valves one way or the other and when they dont mention a carbon problem area in an ad for a cleaner it makes me wonder. Advertising is as much about what you dont say as what you do.
There's really no reason not to give this oil a try unless you have a bunch of other oils already! My kid will be using it exclusively after seeing the results from his Taco. I’d suggest keeping the oil change intervals around 4k miles, just from my experience with it starting to burn in both of my runs in the Element. It's been a positive choice for us!
You know, probably the best: like STP.
How do you know the condition of your piston rings and what vehicle are we talking about?
2018 Subaru Outback I bought new. Started using oil at 60k. I used a borescope to inspect the cylinders and found oil wash on top of 3 pistons(two sides each). Classic sign of stuck oil control rings on these.
I’ve ran maxlife synthetic since new on our 18 rogue. I ran out of my $2 per quart stash at 80k and the engine is absolutely spotless. I switched to schaeffers after and have been changing the oil twice per year and the oil is still draining clean. Problems arise from way to long of intervals and or engine issues themselves. At 100k this engine doesn’t use a drop. I’ve been using hpl since 1k on my wife’s 24 and don’t expect things to be any better than my $2 maxlife.
I see no reason not to make this a forever oil. It is impossible to know the condition of the piston ring area (without an engine disassembly or compression test) unless you’re guzzling oil. Everything else might look pristine and even good compression doesn’t rule out early/mild problems.
The lower the NOACK oil rating in a GDI application the better ?
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