Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Glenda... I see in your OP that you tried Valvoline EP 5w30. Have you tried Valvoline EP HM 5w30?
I have not but many here like it.Glenda... I see in your OP that you tried Valvoline EP 5w30. Have you tried Valvoline EP HM 5w30?
I will at my next spark plug replacement in about 60k miles. They’re kinda a pain to change in Subaru engines unfortunately. The oil wash I saw when I scoped at 100k miles verified stuck rings.@Glenda W. any plans to bore scope the cylinders at the 5k mi OCI and very verify ur promising reduction in oil consumption?
Both of these contain a new generation of detergents that can deal with the aftermath that our cheap North American gasoline leaves behind. European motor oils are formulated for European fuels, unfortunately. You pay more for fuel in Europe, you get better quality. We wanted cheap gas, we got cheap gas. Yes, it's that simple.
I agree, please stop with the nonsense. Top tier gas is not cheap NA gas. Top tier plus will be coming later this year.Complete nonsense again. Please stop
I sat through Glenda’s 25‑page guessing game in polite silence, hoping a single data point would appear. It never did.I agree, please stop with the nonsense.
Please explain how fuel deposits made their way from the top of the piston, past the compression rings, half way down the piston to collect in the oil control rings??I sat through Glenda’s 25‑page guessing game in polite silence, hoping a single data point would appear. It never did.
Now you’ve stepped in to call my comments “nonsense,” yet you haven’t produced so much as a viscosity chart, UOA, or OEM spec to back it up. If you’ve got real numbers, lay them out—I’m happy to compare notes. If it’s just instincts and impressions, that’s fine too, but let’s not pretend feelings are facts.
Show the evidence and you’ll have my full attention; keep winging it, and all you’ll get is a shrug. No hard feelings—just hard data, please.
So you think you can tell how good an oil is by it having "esters" and/or "ANs" in its composition? It's not what an oil is, it's what an oil does.Please explain how fuel deposits made their way from the top of the piston, past the compression rings, half way down the piston to collect in the oil control rings??
As far as which oils use AN’s and Esters in the M1 lineup, LSJR covered that. Valvoline claims they use an additive in R&P.
I normally try not to respond to your posts because of how ridiculous they are. This was never a controlled study. It was a fun test to see if R&P could free my rings. Which it did.
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Me personally no. I let the approvals tell me that. It is interesting seeing which base oil formulas are used to meet the most stringent approvals and specs. Then understanding why they must use more group 4 and 5. Even HPL claims the best OTC oil that they’ve ever tested was pre SP 0w40 using the gtl/pao/ester formula. I’d suggest reading some Dr Leslie Rudnick books. He was on the Mobil 1 TriSyn team and now works at HPL creating some of the best oils.So you think you can tell how good an oil is by it having "esters" and/or "ANs" in its composition? It's not what an oil is, it's what an oil does.
We used to have a lot lower quality gas ( Canada ) versus the U.S but I never heard any complaints about it causing problems. I have always been an extremely high mileage owner and never had problems with gas and stuck rings.Well, I fail to see the hard data in US gasoline being substantially worse than European one. As someone who communicates on a regular basis with Euro importers of equipment from the US that sat with US gas in their US tanks for years, the returns are quite good.
As for the Euro oils being formulated for (supposedly) better gasoline in Europe... Errr...
Cough cough...
Even if this was true (which it is not) - why would I care here in the US ???
Did some Euro oil brand import some Euro oil straight from Europe, not adapting it to the supposedly bad US gasoline ?
Did some US oil brand formulate Euro oil following the European gas specs, to be sold here in the US as oil for Euro vehicles - even though these Euro vehicles would be using US (subpar) gasoline ?
You can't make a determination of what an oil is capable of based on fancy and exotic sounding materials. Valvoline Restore & Protect doesn't have any of these materials. For a daily driver that sees short trips an ester free oil is prefered because you can end up with more deposits rather than less, and water in the oil. That is why Mobil blends their ILSAC oils with AN. Of course, unless you have a chemistry background (I don't) you won't understand the full reasoning.Me personally no. I let the approvals tell me that. It is interesting seeing which base oil formulas are used to meet the most stringent approvals and specs. Then understanding why they must use more group 4 and 5. Even HPL claims the best OTC oil that they’ve ever tested was pre SP 0w40 using the gtl/pao/ester formula. I’d suggest reading some Dr Leslie Rudnick books. He was on the Mobil 1 TriSyn team and now works at HPL creating some of the best oils.
It also depends on driving habits. If you run your engine up to temperature, you minimize carbon deposits, even with cheap gas, but they will still happen. Now, think about those people who short trip the heck out of their cars on low quality gas. Might as well run a bottle of Techron every 3000 miles, at least.We used to have a lot lower quality gas ( Canada ) versus the U.S but I never heard any complaints about it causing problems. I have always been an extremely high mileage owner and never had problems with gas and stuck rings.
I really regret engaging….right back to nonsense. I’m going fishing.Back to Valvoline Restore & Protect: if you used it, you smelled it. It smells like oven roasted sunflower seeds that were splashed with salt water before they got roasted. That's one of those new co-bases used in the oil that's a multifunctional detergent and antioxidant.
My wife ( same car as me ) used to do EXTREMELY short distance driving for years and used the same gas ( not even top tier ). She drove 3 miles, parked for the day, then 3 miles back home. Car is 12 years old now and doesn’t use a drop of oil. Talk about a fuel dilution candidate as well but I changed the oil when the OLM said.It also depends on driving habits. If you run your engine up to temperature, you minimize carbon deposits, even with cheap gas, but they will still happen. Now, think about those people who short trip the heck out of their cars on low quality gas. Might as well run a bottle of Techron every 3000 miles, at least.
And you probably also changed the oil on time as well. I have someone in my family who does the same. I change the oil for them every 3000 miles. Zero oil consumption, the engine is in great shape, but the oil is always smelly and nasty.My wife ( same car as me ) used to do EXTREMELY short distance driving for years and used the same gas ( not even top tier ). She drove 3 miles, parked for the day, then 3 miles back home. Car is 12 years old now and doesn’t use a drop of oil. Talk about a fuel dilution candidate as well but I changed the oil when the OLM said.
That said, I have always used the best fuel injector cleaners every 4000 miles.
Did the fuel injector cleaner make the difference, who knows , but I doubt it ( why her car doesn’t burn oil ).
Bless your heart, have fun fishing!I really regret engaging….right back to nonsense. I’m going fishing.
Yes, I have always changed the oil on time ( when the OLM reached 0% ) but many on BITOG feel that kind of driving ( extreme short trips, plus Canadian winter ) would cause problems, it hasn't.And you probably also changed the oil on time as well. I have someone in my family who does the same. I change the oil for them every 3000 miles. Zero oil consumption, the engine is in great shape, but the oil is always smelly and nasty.
Bless your heart, have fun fishing!![]()
You won't get timing chain issues, excessive bearing wear, and other problems. What you get are some varnish deposits here and there, usually on plastic parts, if your engine has those, like plastic oil filter housings. It's like the oil warms up, and it makes those deposits on the first cold surface it can find. But no, nothing to worry about, as long as you change the oil and run fuel system cleaner. And I wouldn't run any high-dolar boutique oils either. Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Castrol, the usual suspects, in non-Euro form, are the best choice for that kind of driving, in my experience.Yes, I have always changed the oil on time ( when the OLM reached 0% ) but many on BITOG feel that kind of driving ( extreme short trips, plus Canadian winter ) would cause problems, it hasn't.
Why do you think your car burns oil and hers doesn’t?My wife ( same car as me ) used to do EXTREMELY short distance driving for years and used the same gas ( not even top tier ). She drove 3 miles, parked for the day, then 3 miles back home. Car is 12 years old now and doesn’t use a drop of oil. Talk about a fuel dilution candidate as well but I changed the oil when the OLM said.
That said, I have always used the best fuel injector cleaners every 4000 miles.
Did the fuel injector cleaner make the difference, who knows , but I doubt it ( why her car doesn’t burn oil ).
I hate fishing ( fish ) but it made hungry hearing it so time to take the wife out for dinner
Edit: Amsoil SS & HPL PP only oils used in wife’s car.