Recommend an oil for GX550

The 3.4/3.5 TT V35-FTS (for those that don't know the displacement is the same, they just rounded the 3.445L up to make it look bigger) is not new and has been available in lexus models since 2017 and it's sold in Australia so i can get the owners manual for a 2022. You can use a 30 grade and i would use M1 ESP 0w-30 all day long.

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The 3.4/3.5 TT V35-FTS (for those that don't know the displacement is the same, they just rounded the 3.445L up to make it look bigger) is not new and has been available in lexus models since 2017 and it's sold in Australia so i can get the owners manual for a 2022. You can use a 30 grade and i would use M1 ESP 0w-30 all day long.

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Perfect! Thanks man, I am fine with either 0w30 or 5w30
 
Do they really check the oil's viscosity, is it common? 30 grade will shear to a 20 grade so how are they going to tell?,
They can’t. A company will either deny warranty and make you sue them to get it or they will cover it, and it doesn’t matter what oil you use. You can use the “correct” oil and get someone trying to screw you around. Or you can use a completely different oil and have no problems at all.

There’s essentially zero correlation between the oil you use and whether or not they stand behind the warranty.
 
Perfect! Thanks man, I am fine with either 0w30 or 5w30
Yes. Technically 0w-20 is fine because it says so but I wouldn't bother with a EPA satisfying grade put into a high power twin turbo engine. Same with the twin turbo 6 cyl engine in the new chrysler products. If you get the "standard output" which still puts out tons of power it specifies 0w-20. But if you get the high output version which has an extra gdi fuel pump, higher flow injectors, and a few other little things it now uses 0w-40 instead even though they're the same as far as what the oil is concerned about. I have a naturally aspirated 6.2 and I don't use 0w-20 I'm using 5w-40 while still under warranty. And if you have an issue there's basically no chance they will scrutinize your oil beyond checking the oil level to see if you ran it dry but if it's not they'll warranty whatever it could need. But the engine issues are pretty much solved since it was a machining issue when they were ramping up production for the new trucks and suv's. Castrol edge euro 5w-30 may have an issue as it's more mid to higher saps with its SL rated high calcium blend. Pennzoil platinum euro L 5w-30 is mid saps and can be used. M1 esp 0/5w-30 and M1 0/5w-40 is mid to lower saps along with Castrol 0/5w-40 and Quaker state 5w-40 so those are also safe to use and although they're not a 30 grade they basically are as they're at the bottom of the 40 grade range and can shear down a bit to a 30 grade.
 
Yes, you can use 20W60 in an engine. You obviously don't want as you are not racing 24hrs La Mans, but my point is that heavier oils are fine.
However, in this particular engine, during the warranty, I would make sure I use a Toyota 0W20 with an OE filter, and I would purchase it in the dealership and keep all receipts). The Engine has a horrible reputation, and while Toyota claimed they resolved issues, there are 2024 failures left and right (easy to research).
After the warranty, switch to something that has MB229.5 or MB229.51 approval.
 
Considering the concerns over the TTV6, I wouldn't want to give Lexus any excuse to deny warranty. So I'd use the Dealer for the complimentary oil change at 10k. Then I'd consider letting them continue the servicing at least while under warranty.
This is my vote. Normally, I’d want a 30 or 40 grade for this type of use. But, since a number of these engines have been eating themselves, I’d not give them any reasons to deny my warranty claim.
This engine has been made since 2017 but in low numbers and there were almost zero issues from 2017 to 2021. The ramp up in production to put these in Toyotas instead of only lexuses is the reason why they started failing. Filings from the machining wasn't cleaned out but that has been fixed though i still read about it happening but Toyota isn't giving people a hard time right now from what i've read given how wide spread this is.
 
Any excuse? Like what? Only using an oil that meets their requirements?

If they are going to deny warranty, they have the burden of proof, not you. (Magnusson-moss).
By the time you are done with all that, you might as well die from stress-related illness.
Toyota is known to play monkey business with warranties. They pretty much left everyone who owned the 2017 Highlander and Sienna AWD with 8-speed in limbo. They are delaying warranty work on 3.4TT and asking for every possible service paper from the owners.
Are they busing owners' ignorance? Absolutely. But don't think they will not try to make it really hard if something goes wrong.
 
By the time you are done with all that, you might as well die from stress-related illness.
Toyota is known to play monkey business with warranties. They pretty much left everyone who owned the 2017 Highlander and Sienna AWD with 8-speed in limbo. They are delaying warranty work on 3.4TT and asking for every possible service paper from the owners.
Are they busing owners' ignorance? Absolutely. But don't think they will not try to make it really hard if something goes wrong.
Indeed, and when that happens, pointing to a dealer record that you had them change the oil will not save you.
 
This engine has been made since 2017 but in low numbers and there were almost zero issues from 2017 to 2021. The ramp up in production to put these in Toyotas instead of only pexuses is the reason why they started failing. Filings from the machining wasn't cleaned out but that has been fixed though i still read about it happening but Toyota isn't giving anyone a hard time right now given how wide spread this is.
2024's are failing left and right, so no, they did not resolve this issue. This is a design issue, regardless of what Toyota claims. The only vehicle before Tundra with this engine was LS500, which is not a volume seller by any means.
And experience with warranty work depends, at best.
 
Indeed, and when that happens, pointing to a dealer record that you had them change the oil will not save you.
How do you mean? I bet covering your back will make it harder to actually deny work or make it complicated.
I mean, whatever, not my problem. But there is A LOT of wishful thinking among folks owning this engine.
 
This engine has been made since 2017 but in low numbers and there were almost zero issues from 2017 to 2021. The ramp up in production to put these in Toyotas instead of only lexuses is the reason why they started failing. Filings from the machining wasn't cleaned out but that has been fixed though i still read about it happening but Toyota isn't giving people a hard time right now from what i've read given how wide spread this is.

I'm well aware. The fact is they are having problems now, even after they have supposedly resolved the issue.

Having worked in the capacity of representing and maintaining Toyota Motor Corporation products, and having friends who still do, well, I know what I would do.
 
I'm well aware. The fact is they are having problems now, even after they have supposedly resolved the issue.

Having worked in the capacity of representing and maintaining Toyota Motor Corporation products, and having friends who still do, well, I know what I would do.
It's good to hear you have experience in this area. Could you please write a comment or even a post on its own over what people should and shouldn't do if they're having a Toyota engine issue and need to get a successful warranty claim to go through.
 
It's good to hear you have experience in this area. Could you please write a comment or even a post on its own over what people should and shouldn't do if they're having a Toyota engine issue and need to get a successful warranty claim to go through.

I already did with my first post in this thread. I would follow Toyota recommendations to the letter.

If I had more faith in the product and bought one for myself, and wasn't worried about having to prove the maintenance history. I'd do an early change, and most likely use an 0w30 or 5w30.

Doing oil changes during the warranty period on this particular engine, since there is a known issue, but clearly it hasn't been resolved, I would use the exact viscosity spec called out by Lexus (Toyota). I would also keep receipts showing the recommended oil viscosity was used. I would also likely have the dealer perform the changes so there would be no room for them to wiggle out of a claim should the engine self-destruct.

That's hard for me to contemplate, as I never have the dealer perform oil changes for me, as I have more faith in my own ability than I have in the trainee lube-tech who is working afternoons after school, and Saturdays. But for this engine I'd make the exception.

One reason I walked away from working at a Toyota dealer, was because of warranty denials I didn't agree with, and had argued for on the customer's behalf, usually unsuccessfully. But having friends throughout the industry, Toyota is better than some manufacturers when it comes to honoring warranties.

My apologies to the OP for being a downer on this thread. I should have just kept my concerns to myself.
 
I already did with my first post in this thread. I would follow Toyota recommendations to the letter.

If I had more faith in the product and bought one for myself, and wasn't worried about having to prove the maintenance history. I'd do an early change, and most likely use an 0w30 or 5w30.

Doing oil changes during the warranty period on this particular engine, since there is a known issue, but clearly it hasn't been resolved, I would use the exact viscosity spec called out by Lexus (Toyota). I would also keep receipts showing the recommended oil viscosity was used. I would also likely have the dealer perform the changes so there would be no room for them to wiggle out of a claim should the engine self-destruct.

That's hard for me to contemplate, as I never have the dealer perform oil changes for me, as I have more faith in my own ability than I have in the trainee lube-tech who is working afternoons after school, and Saturdays. But for this engine I'd make the exception.

One reason I walked away from working at a Toyota dealer, was because of warranty denials I didn't agree with, and had argued for on the customer's behalf, usually unsuccessfully. But having friends throughout the industry, Toyota is better than some manufacturers when it comes to honoring warranties.

My apologies to the OP for being a downer on this thread. I should have just kept my concerns to myself.
What if I show up at the dealer every 10k miles for oil change, and then drain their oil out and fill my own? Not a big cost to keep my warranty. Honestly I don't believe 0w20 is up for the task. Pulling 6000 lbs for thousands of miles over mountain passes and in the desert is as extreme as it gets. I want to keep this truck well beyond the warranty period, and 60k hard miles on 0w20 will be an awful start.
 
I would use the least expensive 0w20 synthetic on Walmart.com, usually Supertech, ChevronHavoline, or Quaker State. Or Kirkland if you go to Costco. Using the OE filter and changing at reasonable intervals (5-7k miles) is more important imo.
 
What if I show up at the dealer every 10k miles for oil change, and then drain their oil out and fill my own? Not a big cost to keep my warranty. Honestly I don't believe 0w20 is up for the task. Pulling 6000 lbs for thousands of miles over mountain passes and in the desert is as extreme as it gets. I want to keep this truck well beyond the warranty period, and 60k hard miles on 0w20 will be an awful start.

I can give examples of two guys on 4Runner website, who are both approaching 400k miles on their Dual VVTi 1GR-FE engines. I believe (don't make me swear to that, as I don't spend every waking moment on that website) that both have stated they are using the factory spec 0w20 viscosity oil. One of whom does serious 4wd trail driving on a heavily modified (lift, much bigger tires, armor, etc) 4Runner. Different engine, lower power output, but designed by the same company.



Toyota stated the issue with this TTV6 engine was "machining debris". They supposedly took steps to remedy that from happening, and are swapping engines in effected vehicles. But the engines continue to fail in vehicles that supposedly are being built with the new practices to prevent "machining debris".

So is the problem still "machining debris"?, or is there a flaw in the engine design? Slightly higher viscosity oil wouldn't fix either issue by itself.

If the engine is designed properly for the application, 0w20 isn't a problem. If the margin of error is so small that the MOFT and HTHS of a slightly higher viscosity oil matters, then Toyota is going to have this headache on their hands until they make and implement some design changes. Because that WOULD be a design flaw.

I don't think draining their oil and filling with your own would necessarily solve anything. Beyond maybe some peace of mind. That's only assuming the engine design is good, and it is in fact a machining debris issue on some engines, and your engine didn't have machining debris.

As another member pointed out, this engine is speced for up to 10w30 in Australia. So clearly the engineers felt the higher viscosity was acceptable at higher temperatures.

Bottom line: I can't tell you what to do, because I'm not the one buying the vehicle, and I won't be deciding the fate of any potential warranty claim.

Good luck.
 
What if I show up at the dealer every 10k miles for oil change, and then drain their oil out and fill my own? Not a big cost to keep my warranty. Honestly I don't believe 0w20 is up for the task. Pulling 6000 lbs for thousands of miles over mountain passes and in the desert is as extreme as it gets. I want to keep this truck well beyond the warranty period, and 60k hard miles on 0w20 will be an awful start.
Yeah you could do that. Let them do one change and you go 3k on it and 7k on your own oil preferably mid saps or less euro spec like in my previous post. Maybe leave their filter on as a clean engine won't be dirtying it up fast. Toyota's new high efficiency engines are smaller and turbocharged to deliver more than 50% reduction in NOx and NMOG emissions as well as improvement in CO2 emissions but they allow this engine to use thicker overseas because of regulations not being so strict.
 
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