I wouldn't get too hung up on that because it's not just Ca but also Mg and Phosphorus. API SP/SN+ added Mg to the mix which wasn't otherwise present in meaningful amounts under SN.
Help Me Decide on Oil for new 2024 Elantra N
- Thread starter john_pifer
- Start date
I wouldn't get too hung up on that because it's not just Ca but also Mg and Phosphorus. API SP/SN+ added Mg to the mix which wasn't otherwise present in meaningful amounts under SN.
I don't think any these are formulated with higher levels of Mg found under SN+/SP. The data sheets even says "API SN".
wemay
Site Donor 2023
M1 ESP 0W-30. I wouldn't think twice.
I've said that about the sticker on various occasions as well. I guess they get away with it because Shell is also on the sticker. (Pennzoil Euro Platinum 0W30 LX?) Lol
I've said that about the sticker on various occasions as well. I guess they get away with it because Shell is also on the sticker. (Pennzoil Euro Platinum 0W30 LX?) Lol
He needs 0W-30 ASIA. Can't put Euro in Asia - well you could but ...
I don't think there would be an LSPI issue with a performance stick car properly driven
@High Performance Lubricants
Hey Dave, I’ve had several guys suggest I get your suggestions.
What would you recommend?
Hey Dave, I’ve had several guys suggest I get your suggestions.
What would you recommend?
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
If you want a D1 / G3 mirro, then it's HPL No VII 5w30 or bust. There's no 0w30 available...... yet.
Daily oil temps in the R are 182F with ambient in the 90s. The Cla would barely touch 172F. Track duty gets 20wt motul 300v or 20wt redline, depends on what I feel like ordering.
What are your track temperatures? That's what I'd be basing my oil choice on the "worst condition".
Quaker state does offer a Euro LX 0w30.
Quaker State 0w30 Full Synthetic, 1,282 Miles, 2.5T Hyundai, Initial Oil Change
Hi, I changed the oil after 1,282 miles of new 23 Hyundai Santa Cruz 2.5 Turbo, initial oil change. Oil is Quaker State 0w30 full synthetic. As you can see, report is showing high silicon @96 ppm, high molybdenum @737 ppm and low viscosity @8.3 cSt vs 11.6 for new. Fuel dilution is noted @1.8%...
bobistheoilguy.com
Well, I had a 2016 WRX and decided on Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 because of relatively low SAPS (to help keep valves clean), low Noack, and excellent GTL base oil. And the ability to obtain it from Walmart’s shelves at will.
Things were a bit more simple back then, as we were dealing with API SN, I think, and most of the Euro formulations still had really high SAPS, and LSPI was getting more into the consciousness of the drivers of performance sport compacts as something that should be avoided.
Now, I will say, I do have an understanding of the potential impact of calcium in the oil, on LSPI, but I also know how to avoid getting the engine into the regime where LSPI is a risk (lower RPM, higher gear, spiking boost).
But anyway, the car will be driven hard on backroads and mountain roads regularly, and has 276 HP/289 FT-LBS (and I’ve read that that is a conservative rating, because the car actually has been dyno’d to produce those numbers at the wheels, so it’s actually very conservatively rated from the factory), so I’m thinking something with at least 3.5 HTHS.
So that rules out the owners manual suggestion of an ILSAC 0W-30. So if you’re here to tell me to “just follow the manual”, don’t waste your breath!
M1 ESP 0W-30 (SP version): Maybe? It would simplify things, because I am already using this in our Odyssey. However, it’s been brought to my attention that it has ~ 1700 ppm of Ca. Not overly high, and this oil passes the MB 229.52 LSPI test. However, some believe that this is still a little high for a smaller TGDI engine. And @RDY4WAR made the point that we don’t know MB’s test specs, or what engine they’re using for the test.
ESP 5W-30 has much less. It’s just $11 more per jug ($38 vs $27). But it should have fewer VII/VM, and lower volatility. This is probably number one in the running right now, especially as I can get it on the shelf at the local Auto Zone.
But then the SP version of M1 FS 0W-40 also has a new lower Ca detergent pack. But higher SAPS… Wondering about potential for more deposits due to higher SAPS on this one, or other API-SP-approved Euro formulations that would have good HTHS, great base oils, but maybe higher SAPS.
Manual calls for 6000-mile OCIs, but I'm planning on 5000 mile OCIs.
Funny note: There’s a decal under the hood that says “Hyundai recommends Quaker State”. But QS doesn’t actually even offer a 0W-30!
I emailed them, and they didn’t have much to say other than QS doesn’t offer an oil for my car, and to take it to the dealership!
I’m also open to considering a boutique oil like HPL - I’ve never used a boutique oil, but I know a lot of y’all do, and I have looked into it a little bit and obviously the specs are very, very impressive. The “no VII” versions are especially enticing, especially with this being turbo, and wanting to avoid deposits both in intake tract and turbo. But is it worth it when I’m going to do 5000 mile OCIs?
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Sacrilege!
Whatever you do, don't be this guy. I will admit that it was impressive how fast it pulled away from the cops every time...
Killer car, not a Hyudai fan generally but these are cool, seen a few eating it up on track days. I wouldn't over-think the LSPI thing, it's a bit of an internet boogieman. My 1.8L making 350hp is running full-SAPS Euro oils without a hitch the last 6 years/100K and is tracked. I'd have a look at the HPL line on this car/figure out which will work out for you. I'm also sure the normal players at Wallyworld like Penzoil and M1 have an oil that is perfect here.
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Thanks dude, I had noticed that you were running full SAPS oil.
Honestly I’m probably just going to use M1 ESP, either 5W-30 or 0W-30, and do some UOAs to see how they hold up. They’re cheap and available on local shelves, and they’re great for the $$$.
I had seen that.
I do hope to find a community of “more seasoned” N owners.
Just because of what it is, and the value of what’s offered with the N cars, they attract younger buyers.
Nothing wrong with that, but it’s usually the more mature owners who I tend to like to listen to when it comes to opinions on the capabilities of the car, mods, maintenance, etc.
I did find a YouTube channel that’s run by a guy about my age, who focuses on the Elantra N, and I’ve been tuning in to his content quite a bit.
Turns out he’s actually local to me:
N Power Automotive
Hyundai doesn’t exactly have a good track record regarding engines.
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