Well, I had a 2016 WRX and decided on Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 because of relatively low SAPS (to help keep valves clean), low Noack, and excellent GTL base oil. And the ability to obtain it from Walmart’s shelves at will.
Things were a bit more simple back then, as we were dealing with API SN, I think, and most of the Euro formulations still had really high SAPS, and LSPI was getting more into the consciousness of the drivers of performance sport compacts as something that should be avoided.
Now, I will say, I do have an understanding of the potential impact of calcium in the oil, on LSPI, but I also know how to avoid getting the engine into the regime where LSPI is a risk (lower RPM, higher gear, spiking boost).
But anyway, the car will be driven hard on backroads and mountain roads regularly, and has 276 HP/289 FT-LBS (and I’ve read that that is a conservative rating, because the car actually has been dyno’d to produce those numbers at the wheels, so it’s actually very conservatively rated from the factory), so I’m thinking something with at least 3.5 HTHS.
So that rules out the owners manual suggestion of an ILSAC 0W-30. So if you’re here to tell me to “just follow the manual”, don’t waste your breath!
M1 ESP 0W-30 (SP version): Maybe? It would simplify things, because I am already using this in our Odyssey. However, it’s been brought to my attention that it has ~ 1700 ppm of Ca. Not overly high, and this oil passes the MB 229.52 LSPI test. However, some believe that this is still a little high for a smaller TGDI engine. And @RDY4WAR made the point that we don’t know MB’s test specs, or what engine they’re using for the test.
ESP 5W-30 has much less. It’s just $11 more per jug ($38 vs $27). But it should have fewer VII/VM, and lower volatility. This is probably number one in the running right now, especially as I can get it on the shelf at the local Auto Zone.
But then the SP version of M1 FS 0W-40 also has a new lower Ca detergent pack. But higher SAPS… Wondering about potential for more deposits due to higher SAPS on this one, or other API-SP-approved Euro formulations that would have good HTHS, great base oils, but maybe higher SAPS.
Manual calls for 6000-mile OCIs, but I'm planning on 5000 mile OCIs.
Funny note: There’s a decal under the hood that says “Hyundai recommends Quaker State”. But QS doesn’t actually even offer a 0W-30!
I emailed them, and they didn’t have much to say other than QS doesn’t offer an oil for my car, and to take it to the dealership!
I’m also open to considering a boutique oil like HPL - I’ve never used a boutique oil, but I know a lot of y’all do, and I have looked into it a little bit and obviously the specs are very, very impressive. The “no VII” versions are especially enticing, especially with this being turbo, and wanting to avoid deposits both in intake tract and turbo. But is it worth it when I’m going to do 5000 mile OCIs?
Things were a bit more simple back then, as we were dealing with API SN, I think, and most of the Euro formulations still had really high SAPS, and LSPI was getting more into the consciousness of the drivers of performance sport compacts as something that should be avoided.
Now, I will say, I do have an understanding of the potential impact of calcium in the oil, on LSPI, but I also know how to avoid getting the engine into the regime where LSPI is a risk (lower RPM, higher gear, spiking boost).
But anyway, the car will be driven hard on backroads and mountain roads regularly, and has 276 HP/289 FT-LBS (and I’ve read that that is a conservative rating, because the car actually has been dyno’d to produce those numbers at the wheels, so it’s actually very conservatively rated from the factory), so I’m thinking something with at least 3.5 HTHS.
So that rules out the owners manual suggestion of an ILSAC 0W-30. So if you’re here to tell me to “just follow the manual”, don’t waste your breath!
M1 ESP 0W-30 (SP version): Maybe? It would simplify things, because I am already using this in our Odyssey. However, it’s been brought to my attention that it has ~ 1700 ppm of Ca. Not overly high, and this oil passes the MB 229.52 LSPI test. However, some believe that this is still a little high for a smaller TGDI engine. And @RDY4WAR made the point that we don’t know MB’s test specs, or what engine they’re using for the test.
ESP 5W-30 has much less. It’s just $11 more per jug ($38 vs $27). But it should have fewer VII/VM, and lower volatility. This is probably number one in the running right now, especially as I can get it on the shelf at the local Auto Zone.
But then the SP version of M1 FS 0W-40 also has a new lower Ca detergent pack. But higher SAPS… Wondering about potential for more deposits due to higher SAPS on this one, or other API-SP-approved Euro formulations that would have good HTHS, great base oils, but maybe higher SAPS.
Manual calls for 6000-mile OCIs, but I'm planning on 5000 mile OCIs.
Funny note: There’s a decal under the hood that says “Hyundai recommends Quaker State”. But QS doesn’t actually even offer a 0W-30!
I emailed them, and they didn’t have much to say other than QS doesn’t offer an oil for my car, and to take it to the dealership!
I’m also open to considering a boutique oil like HPL - I’ve never used a boutique oil, but I know a lot of y’all do, and I have looked into it a little bit and obviously the specs are very, very impressive. The “no VII” versions are especially enticing, especially with this being turbo, and wanting to avoid deposits both in intake tract and turbo. But is it worth it when I’m going to do 5000 mile OCIs?
