Recommendation, one oil for the garage

This
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I’ve settled on schaeffers 0w20 for everything. 3 Nissans that all use 0w20 and when I run to our Missouri office I can get cases for under $100. Seems like good oil with a good reputation and has the gf6 sp on the back of the bottle that my new cars require should the need arise. Better than Mobil 1 or worse than hpl? Don’t know, but I feel good about it.
 
VW508.00 Approved motor oil.
Mobil1 EP or Castrol EDGE EP
Valvoline EP (not mktd as a long drain oil)
 
I would probably stick with the brand that you’ve been using and not switch oils on your vehicles, any synthetic oil with a oil additive
 
I would probably stick with the brand that you’ve been using and not switch oils on your vehicles, any synthetic oil with a oil additive
I agree. Changing brands means mixing additive packages and might also mean mixing different synthetics. It's most reliable (chemistry) to choose 1 brand/product-line of oil and stick with it. But changing viscosities is fine. Like maybe 5w20 or 5w30 might be as good or better for OP than 0w20. But stick with same brand, unless you intend to flush as explained below.

If changing to a different brand of oil, then I suggest pouring 1-2 quarts of the new brand through engine with drain plug removed (after having drained the old oil ) as a flush before reinstalling drain plug and adding new oil.

1-2 qts of clean motor oil of the new brand you intend to use is the only type of flush I recommend, and only if switching to a new brand of oil.

If you stay with same brand/product-line of oil, then no need to flush (even if you switch to a different viscosity).
 
I agree. Changing brands means mixing additive packages and might also mean mixing different synthetics. It's most reliable (chemistry) to choose 1 brand/product-line of oil and stick with it. But changing viscosities is fine. Like maybe 5w20 or 5w30 might be as good or better for OP than 0w20. But stick with same brand, unless you intend to flush as explained below.

If changing to a different brand of oil, then I suggest pouring 1-2 quarts of the new brand through engine with drain plug removed (after having drained the old oil ) as a flush before reinstalling drain plug and adding new oil.

1-2 qts of clean motor oil of the new brand you intend to use is the only type of flush I recommend, and only if switching to a new brand of oil.

If you stay with same brand/product-line of oil, then no need to flush (even if you switch to a different viscosity).
Totally unnecessary and a waste of good oil! With the residual oil in the pump and the galleries, you're not even getting the majority of the old oil out that way.
 
Totally unnecessary and a waste of good oil! With the residual oil in the pump and the galleries, you're not even getting the majority of the old oil out that way.
But it does flush the bottom of the pan a little, which is where some residues form. The Oil Geek Youtuber guy does this when he changes brands. If he thinks dumping 1-2 new quarts through when changing brands is advisable, that's good enough for me. He's some type of certified oil technician. He's worked for oil companies, racing companies, and currently works for a piston ring company. I think he knows his stuff. I only do it if I've changed brands of oil. It only costs me 1 qt.
 
But it does flush the bottom of the pan a little, which is where some residues form. The Oil Geek Youtuber guy does this when he changes brands. If he thinks dumping 1-2 new quarts through when changing brands is advisable, that's good enough for me. He's some type of certified oil technician. He's worked for oil companies, racing companies, and currently works for a piston ring company. I think he knows his stuff. I only do it if I've changed brands of oil. It only costs me 1 qt.
It's still unnecessary. It's an attempt to solve a non existing problem. A half quart of residual Mobil 1 in a pan full of Pennsoil has exactly zero negative effects on the life of an engine. You're a lot better off spending your money toward other maintenance items that really matter.

If Lake Speed Jr is telling people to rinse the pan with fresh oil, he should know better.
 
It's still unnecessary. It's an attempt to solve a non existing problem. A half quart of residual Mobil 1 in a pan full of Pennsoil has exactly zero negative effects on the life of an engine. You're a lot better off spending your money toward other maintenance items that really matter.

If Lake Speed Jr is telling people to rinse the pan with fresh oil, he should know better.
I think it was Lake Speed Jr who said that in a video where he was comparing different brands of oils in the same engine. It's difficult to remember which video and which person said it.
 
But it does flush the bottom of the pan a little, which is where some residues form. The Oil Geek Youtuber guy does this when he changes brands. If he thinks dumping 1-2 new quarts through when changing brands is advisable, that's good enough for me. He's some type of certified oil technician. He's worked for oil companies, racing companies, and currently works for a piston ring company. I think he knows his stuff. I only do it if I've changed brands of oil. It only costs me 1 qt.
He would be better off putting in those two quarts and idling the engine for 15-20 seconds. I actually used to do that back in the day when I was switching cars over to German Castrol 0w30, that way the first UOA would be of a much higher percentage of the new brand of oil.
 
I agree. Changing brands means mixing additive packages and might also mean mixing different synthetics. It's most reliable (chemistry) to choose 1 brand/product-line of oil and stick with it. But changing viscosities is fine. Like maybe 5w20 or 5w30 might be as good or better for OP than 0w20. But stick with same brand, unless you intend to flush as explained below.

If changing to a different brand of oil, then I suggest pouring 1-2 quarts of the new brand through engine with drain plug removed (after having drained the old oil ) as a flush before reinstalling drain plug and adding new oil.

1-2 qts of clean motor oil of the new brand you intend to use is the only type of flush I recommend, and only if switching to a new brand of oil.

If you stay with same brand/product-line of oil, then no need to flush (even if you switch to a different viscosity).
I'd be willing to bet there is no statistically significant or measurable difference between a virgin sample and the same oil that was mixed with what little oil may be left after an oil and filter change. Modern oil that has the same approval is perfectly fine to mix.
 
SuperTech, or Kirkland, or Prime, or Mobil 1300, etc... Any of these in 15W-40 served me well in every engine I put it in.

I'm a strong believer that more frequent oil changes (3k-5k miles depending on engine in question) with cheapest HDEO is still better for the engine than extended OCIs with boutique oils, or standard OCIs with top shelf synthetics. And often it's suitable for my air-cooled toys too. Truly a universal oil with great track record. Occasionally I do splurge on a Full Synthetic HDEO, but only if it's on deep discount.
Thankfully I never have to worry about warranty requirements on any of my vehicles.
 
He would be better off putting in those two quarts and idling the engine for 15-20 seconds. I actually used to do that back in the day when I was switching cars over to German Castrol 0w30, that way the first UOA would be of a much higher percentage of the new brand of oil.
That's a good idea. I'll use your suggestion in future if I switch brands of oil.
 
I'd be willing to bet there is no statistically significant or measurable difference between a virgin sample and the same oil that was mixed with what little oil may be left after an oil and filter change. Modern oil that has the same approval is perfectly fine to mix.
lt is acceptable to mix or change brands of oil, but it's not ideal because it can create competing-conflicting additives. Also, one brand of syntheteic might not be fully compatible with another brand if they've got syn oils in them that don't play nice with each other.

I got that straight from autoshop class 35 years ago, and again recently from that Lake Speed Oil Geek Youtube fella from one of his videos. He's a certified oil expert of some kind.

I'm not an expert, but I'm going to follow Lake Speed's advice and avoid mixing brands when possible, but you do as you think best with your car. To each his own.
 
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