It’s hard to go wrong with a GTL/PAO/Ester blend for $27 per 5 quart jug. With how short OPs change intervals are they’re not really going to push any of these oils and could use something cheaper if they wanted.M1 ESP 0W-30.
I agree. Changing brands means mixing additive packages and might also mean mixing different synthetics. It's most reliable (chemistry) to choose 1 brand/product-line of oil and stick with it. But changing viscosities is fine. Like maybe 5w20 or 5w30 might be as good or better for OP than 0w20. But stick with same brand, unless you intend to flush as explained below.I would probably stick with the brand that you’ve been using and not switch oils on your vehicles, any synthetic oil with a oil additive
Totally unnecessary and a waste of good oil! With the residual oil in the pump and the galleries, you're not even getting the majority of the old oil out that way.I agree. Changing brands means mixing additive packages and might also mean mixing different synthetics. It's most reliable (chemistry) to choose 1 brand/product-line of oil and stick with it. But changing viscosities is fine. Like maybe 5w20 or 5w30 might be as good or better for OP than 0w20. But stick with same brand, unless you intend to flush as explained below.
If changing to a different brand of oil, then I suggest pouring 1-2 quarts of the new brand through engine with drain plug removed (after having drained the old oil ) as a flush before reinstalling drain plug and adding new oil.
1-2 qts of clean motor oil of the new brand you intend to use is the only type of flush I recommend, and only if switching to a new brand of oil.
If you stay with same brand/product-line of oil, then no need to flush (even if you switch to a different viscosity).
But it does flush the bottom of the pan a little, which is where some residues form. The Oil Geek Youtuber guy does this when he changes brands. If he thinks dumping 1-2 new quarts through when changing brands is advisable, that's good enough for me. He's some type of certified oil technician. He's worked for oil companies, racing companies, and currently works for a piston ring company. I think he knows his stuff. I only do it if I've changed brands of oil. It only costs me 1 qt.Totally unnecessary and a waste of good oil! With the residual oil in the pump and the galleries, you're not even getting the majority of the old oil out that way.
It's still unnecessary. It's an attempt to solve a non existing problem. A half quart of residual Mobil 1 in a pan full of Pennsoil has exactly zero negative effects on the life of an engine. You're a lot better off spending your money toward other maintenance items that really matter.But it does flush the bottom of the pan a little, which is where some residues form. The Oil Geek Youtuber guy does this when he changes brands. If he thinks dumping 1-2 new quarts through when changing brands is advisable, that's good enough for me. He's some type of certified oil technician. He's worked for oil companies, racing companies, and currently works for a piston ring company. I think he knows his stuff. I only do it if I've changed brands of oil. It only costs me 1 qt.
I think it was Lake Speed Jr who said that in a video where he was comparing different brands of oils in the same engine. It's difficult to remember which video and which person said it.It's still unnecessary. It's an attempt to solve a non existing problem. A half quart of residual Mobil 1 in a pan full of Pennsoil has exactly zero negative effects on the life of an engine. You're a lot better off spending your money toward other maintenance items that really matter.
If Lake Speed Jr is telling people to rinse the pan with fresh oil, he should know better.
Why is full synth Havoline second tier?Not anymore -- it is Mobil 1 pricing for a second tier oil.
Probably because they don't spend as much on advertisingWhy is full synth Havoline second tier?
He would be better off putting in those two quarts and idling the engine for 15-20 seconds. I actually used to do that back in the day when I was switching cars over to German Castrol 0w30, that way the first UOA would be of a much higher percentage of the new brand of oil.But it does flush the bottom of the pan a little, which is where some residues form. The Oil Geek Youtuber guy does this when he changes brands. If he thinks dumping 1-2 new quarts through when changing brands is advisable, that's good enough for me. He's some type of certified oil technician. He's worked for oil companies, racing companies, and currently works for a piston ring company. I think he knows his stuff. I only do it if I've changed brands of oil. It only costs me 1 qt.
I'd be willing to bet there is no statistically significant or measurable difference between a virgin sample and the same oil that was mixed with what little oil may be left after an oil and filter change. Modern oil that has the same approval is perfectly fine to mix.I agree. Changing brands means mixing additive packages and might also mean mixing different synthetics. It's most reliable (chemistry) to choose 1 brand/product-line of oil and stick with it. But changing viscosities is fine. Like maybe 5w20 or 5w30 might be as good or better for OP than 0w20. But stick with same brand, unless you intend to flush as explained below.
If changing to a different brand of oil, then I suggest pouring 1-2 quarts of the new brand through engine with drain plug removed (after having drained the old oil ) as a flush before reinstalling drain plug and adding new oil.
1-2 qts of clean motor oil of the new brand you intend to use is the only type of flush I recommend, and only if switching to a new brand of oil.
If you stay with same brand/product-line of oil, then no need to flush (even if you switch to a different viscosity).
Their top-tier product is Havoline Pro-RS.Why is full synth Havoline second tier?
That's a good idea. I'll use your suggestion in future if I switch brands of oil.He would be better off putting in those two quarts and idling the engine for 15-20 seconds. I actually used to do that back in the day when I was switching cars over to German Castrol 0w30, that way the first UOA would be of a much higher percentage of the new brand of oil.
lt is acceptable to mix or change brands of oil, but it's not ideal because it can create competing-conflicting additives. Also, one brand of syntheteic might not be fully compatible with another brand if they've got syn oils in them that don't play nice with each other.I'd be willing to bet there is no statistically significant or measurable difference between a virgin sample and the same oil that was mixed with what little oil may be left after an oil and filter change. Modern oil that has the same approval is perfectly fine to mix.