- Joined
- Feb 23, 2024
- Messages
- 35
I heard about that and also to overfill sump by 1/2 quart or so. Car will will be used for daily and spirited use. There's also the RTV issue.
As far as I know, overfilling and some baffle sumps don't work. Generally, on track it is always prudent to overfill a bit, and might save you if not pushing too hard in corners. But, so far only solution seems accu. sump.I heard about that and also to overfill sump by 1/2 quart or so. Car will will be used for daily and spirited use. There's also the RTV issue.
I run more in my BMW too on track. It is good practice, issues or not.I'm familiar with running accusumps on Pontiac Trans Ams back in the day for autocross. We always ran a quart over as well.
a 30 weight and high moly sounds like a good mix, I do run Valvoline in my daily driver in their 20 weight synthetic, with high moly.I wouldn't do the 20 wt stuff. I use the Valvoline EP 5W-30 in my 25 GR86 (same vehicle) very high in Moly and Boron.
Oil flow is irrelevant. As long as the oil can be pumped it will flow. Pumpability is represented by the winter rating.The manual states that a 30 weight oil can be used if necessary, I think I am okay with the 20 weight as oil flow is important as is fuel economy. These aren't the most economical motors out there in terms of fuel economy. I am glad that they incorporated a dual fuel injection system on this motor to reduce fuel related issues down the road.
What is the specific molybdenum compound? That’s important to know since a simple spectrographic analysis does not show this. It was part of the condition for the old TGMO. Not all compounds are equally effective.a 30 weight and high moly sounds like a good mix, I do run Valvoline in my daily driver in their 20 weight synthetic, with high moly.
Keep a close eye around the filler neck and the underside of the yellow oil fill cap. EVERY SINGLE SUBARU I see at work is filling with dark deposit (crud) in these areas, and I have seen it even as early as 15-20k miles. If its dark up top, I can only imagine what is happening at the rings and other hot spots.If you are going to "wring her out" a lot, I'd suggest an Xw-30 in it. Does it have a 6000 mile OCI specified like many of the other Subaru engines in that year?
I run good quality 0w20 oil in a 2024 Forester and change it every 5000 miles since it's so easy to remember, and I'm sure this is sufficient when good oil is used in non-severe service.
Isn’t the filler cap residue due to moisture? I have a hard time believing it’s all that hot nor warm at that location as it would be at an engine hot spot.Keep a close eye around the filler neck and the underside of the yellow oil fill cap. EVERY SINGLE SUBARU I see at work is filling with dark deposit (crud) in these areas, and I have seen it even as early as 15-20k miles. If its dark up top, I can only imagine what is happening at the rings and other hot spots.
My parents have a low mileage '23 Forester, and I regret not buying one as well (instead of the Rav4 I got) to do a head to head comparison of 0w30 vs 0w20 in these things because my father is too afraid of the warranty bogeyman and insists on 0w20.
I wouldn't do the 20 wt stuff. I use the Valvoline EP 5W-30 in my 25 GR86 (same vehicle) very high in Moly and Boron.
The one thing I liked about 20 weight oils is that they have to be full synthetic , no guessing.
The GR cup cars seem to run M1 0-40 and bit over 1/2 quart overfill https://900brz.com/posts/gr-cup-reliability they also have a cooler and an added baffle thoughAs far as I know, overfilling and some baffle sumps don't work. Generally, on track it is always prudent to overfill a bit, and might save you if not pushing too hard in corners. But, so far only solution seems accu. sump.
There is no problem running thicker oil.That makes sense, they need all of the protection they can get. I've heard in other parts of the world these cars run 30 weight oil, which we have seen with other makes and models, North America is always different.
Not sure what its cause is, it’s just something I observe on so many of them and something that I wouldn’t like to see on my own car.Isn’t the filler cap residue due to moisture? I have a hard time believing it’s all that hot nor warm at that location as it would be at an engine hot spot.
The oil cap is typically one of the coolest locations, that's why moisture often condenses there and causes a deposit.Not sure what its cause is, it’s just something I observe on so many of them and something that I wouldn’t like to see on my own car.
I did not recommend 0W30 Edge bcs. winter. I recommended it bcs. quality.Thanks for the added replies, I do like the idea of a 0w-30 for the shoulder seasons , it won't be terribly cold though, so I am sure 5w-30 would also be suitable, the car is stored during winter months when the extreme cold temps occur. Thanks for the added oil suggestion.