This coming week. Gotta put the order in and sch.
Post your latest oil change
- Thread starter Superbuick96
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2021
- Messages
- 1,367
That's ridiculous. There is nothing about that statement of yours that is rooted in data or proof.
It is not my "opinion" that different engines and driving conditions present different challenges for an oil, and that there are plenty of use-cases where Amsoil at 10k miles will not fair better than Supertech at 5k. My "opinion" is that "it depends", and you're unable to accept that, why, I don't know.
Last edited:
Patman
Staff member
We’re going to have to agree to disagree about this then. I’ve been here a heck of a lot longer than you….
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2021
- Messages
- 1,367
Pulling the "I've been here longer" card has nothing to do with the basis of your statement, but alright.
I think saying "it depends" and rejecting blanket statements is pretty timeless, myself.Please keep us posted on the Valvoline Restore and Protect testing.
One thought I had is that the oil control ring design issues which I assume causes oil to over heat and not flow properly though the drain holes in the piston, might get gummed up regardless of whether regular group III, or GTL, or PAO, or Ester based oil is used due to the excessive high temperatures at the piston rings, as they are extremely close to the combustion chamber. Put simply, expensive oil may not be able to handle the extreme temperatures due to a poorly designed piston ring drain hole design, and have an identical result as regular group III synthetic.
Using an oil with some cleaning capability like Valvoline R&P or group III + HPL EC30, or HPL PCMO could be a way to mitigate this.
Coworker's 2010 Chrysler T&C 3.3 V6, 168,000 miles now
3 months 2800 miles, Out: Shell Rotella T4 Protec WIX PXL51515
In: same
Also replaced catalytic converter, topped off coolant, lubricated doors, adjusted tire pressures. it's a lot quieter now and runs much better with the new catalytic converter, the old flex pipe between the manifold flange and converter broke.
3 months 2800 miles, Out: Shell Rotella T4 Protec WIX PXL51515
In: same
Also replaced catalytic converter, topped off coolant, lubricated doors, adjusted tire pressures. it's a lot quieter now and runs much better with the new catalytic converter, the old flex pipe between the manifold flange and converter broke.
In about 3200 miles I’ll be done with my 4th oci and will post my results.
I can say I have a friend with the same engine I have in my Outback. He has used Amsoil SS in it since new. He has around 110k on his and burns no oil. Mine started burning oil at 60k miles. It’s not scientific by any means but gives me hope.
I do agree it’s very vehicle and condition specific. Obviously a Hyundai with scored cylinders is doomed. That design was doomed since day one.
What brand did you replace it with?
No, but a group one like Delo 400 SAE 30 or 40 will.
Locomotives and other industrial engines run for decades on $4 engine oil without issues.
So PAO based oil (Amsoil) and GTL based oil (Pennzoil Platinum) seem to have similar performance in extreme heat, and Pennzoil advertises that it's platinum oils keep piston rings 40%+ cleaner than industry standards. The GTL from natural gas oils from Pennzoil are very good in extreme temperatures. So, perhaps a low cost long term solution is to use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic oils with HPL EC30 in the 1:5 ratio for every 5k OCI going forward. Just a thought.
A-Premium from Amazon. It fit well, and the catalyst temp and upstream and downstream O2 readings were all good when I was monitoring it with my code reader while he drove it. Smelled like a new car with rotten eggs once we got on it hard.
Someone smarter than I will have to answer your question. From what I’ve read the solvency is a key factor as well as heat resistance. Amsoil has a good slug of ester too. Maybe that Pennzoil combo would do the trick?
Last edited:
Got a bunch of Italian Tune-Up episodes in there too?
Lots of people report oil consumption going down with Valvoline R&P, so most likely it's getting stuck rings loose so the oil control rings can work properly. If any of my vehicles started using oil, I'd be trying out some VR&P as that's about as easy of a fix attempt you can perform.
Anxiously awaiting the cut open fikter. Nice work too sir
Beautiful wheels. And no curb rash!
I think they are pretty sharp looking. That isn’t from a lack of my wife trying lol. Probably where the gash in the sidewall came from. Low pros would have hit the wheel for sure. I’ve learned over the years not to get low pros on my wife’s vehicles.
2022 Camry SE AWD 2.5
51,532 miles on car
6,013 miles on this oil change
Out: HPL 0W30 Premium Plus and Fram Endurance 4967 - will cut open when I get a chance
In: HPL 0W30 Premium Plus and Carquest Premium 85394
Oil sample sent
Also changed the air filter
51,532 miles on car
6,013 miles on this oil change
Out: HPL 0W30 Premium Plus and Fram Endurance 4967 - will cut open when I get a chance
In: HPL 0W30 Premium Plus and Carquest Premium 85394
Oil sample sent
Also changed the air filter
My filter pliers crushed this one. I cut it open to drain it but couldn't get the filter element out. Looked fine from what I could see though.Anxiously awaiting the cut open fikter. Nice work too sir
Good to hear sir
Similar threads
