Oil for maximum cleaning?

I have purchased motor flush products in the past when stocking up. Those bottles sat n sat unused in the cabinet in my garage for very long times. Even Amsoil's flush treatment "for engine and transmission use" was among those I had accumulated at some point. They were eventually given to someone with an older engine or to use before they opened up an engine for inspection, repairs or rebuilds. I never could get myself to put those in any of my engines. Never got to the point of needing a real "flush" tretment product anyway since the 70s. Now I would just use an oil to do it.
I have a friend that has been using amsoil on a 2009 hyundai. Said it made a huge difference. It was a used car with unknown service record.
I'm also not comfortable using anything like that. If I had some serious issues, I would and hope for the best. LiquiMoli is used alot by BMW people as I read on amazon reviews and the boards. I don't think either of these two products will ruin a car, but I would not use them unless I had a real need. I'm curious how my car would do with one. I used to change the oil at 10k for the last 100k miles. Very curious to see what the oil would look like if I did the liquimoli.
Second using the HPL Engine Cleaner for a full OCI of 5000 miles.
Dave from HPL sent me this message:

This product relies on esters to clean. I would suggest running it for a couple thousand miles. It would be best to do the cleaning in old oil ready to be discarded. Just add and drive normal. Heat will definitely accelerate the cleaning but 2000 miles will be enough time to work.
Can you please post a link where to buy this stuff?
M1 High Mileage Synthetic oils are known to have more detergents for cleaning .
What "detergents" does M1 HM have more of? To which M1 HM oils are you referring? And which oils are you comparing them to? Thanks!
When I had my old 300D that had cylinder imbalance issues due to stuck rings, Mobil Delvac 1 (the older CI-4) cleaned the rings up and helped get the old girl running smoothly again, and, being a 5W40, it is thin enough to use in almost anything. Need to drive it hard & get it nice and hot for it to work, and the 300D did leak worse with it, but it did work.
I did a piston soak and it gave me a great improvement, but I’m trying to see if I can do even better. Diesel oil makes sense and I have some left over from my tractor so that makes it an even easier choice.
Just keep in mind that the temperatures are high enough to coke conventional oil in the piston’s oil ring drain holes. That means that conventional diesel oil will also be prone to the very same process. Despite high detergency. I suggest a true high quality synthetic If you want a shot at continued improvement.
What "detergents" does M1 HM have more of? To which M1 HM oils are you referring? And which oils are you comparing them to? Thanks!
It has more Esters, which are natural cleaners.
The HM just has more of them in the oil.
I read some where on Mobil 1 website, as far as cleaning, they recommend change every 2500 with a new oil filter. As far as cleaning goes, M1 is pretty good
Royal Purple is a copycat of Valvoline with some purple dye.

If you want cleaning power, don't look at detergents. They're important for neutralizing and isolating sludge that gets kicked up into suspension, but they don't really clean per say. Detergents (detergent inhibitors) are acid neutralizers in the form of calcium and magnesium sulfonate which is found over the counter at pharmacies under the names Tums and Milk of Magnesia. The same way they neutralize acids in your gut that cause heartburn and indigestion, they neutralize acids in the oil that cause oxidation and corrosion. They exist more to keep the oil clean, not clean the engine.

If you want cleaning power, you want an oil with a good bit of ester. High Performance Lubricants has a cleaning oil that's ester based and replaces 1 quart in your sump for a short OCI.

If your oil consumption is due to coking or stuck rings, some extensive cleaning may help. However, if the consumption is due to worn rings, no amount of cleaning will stop it.
Nope, nope and nope. Tums is calcium carbonate, milk of magnesia is magnesium hydroxide.
I’ve posted a couple of threads about my 2009 Scion with the oil burning 2az-fe engine so I won’t elaborate here and just jump straight to the question. What oil and change interval would you use if you were trying to flush out your oil control rings? I was thinking a synthetic 0w-20, but that’s mostly because I have a few bottles of Harvest King I don‘t need. Maybe a couple of 2000 mile changes and then reasses?

The engine specifies 5w-20 or 0w-20. I know Royal Purple has a lot of detergents so maybe a jug of it to start?
Have you tried a 15w-50? Does that lower the burn?