2021 Hyundai Palisade Oil recommendation?

[BrokenAudiTT]

What would be a good oil for my 2021 Hyundai Palisade?

I’ve been getting free oil changes from the dealer, and the reminder sticker from the last one (at 30,000 miles) said they used 0W-20. That seemed a little strange to me — the break-in oil is 0W-20, but the manual says to switch to 5W-30 afterward. I’m not sure if they actually used 0W-20 or if that’s just what they wrote on the sticker.

The owner's manual recommends 5W-30, specifically ACEA A5 if available, or Quaker State 5W-30.

I recently changed the oil myself and used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. It takes about 7 quarts.

I didn’t check the dipstick after draining, but the old oil almost filled an empty 5-quart jug, so I’d estimate about 5.5–6 quarts came out. I’m not sure what the oil level was before I changed it — maybe it was a little low.

Since it’s a GDI engine (and they're known to burn some oil), is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum a good choice, or is there something better I should be using?

 

[Propflux01]

Mobil One ESP 0/5w-30

 

[Mainia]

You own a Hyundai/Kia, Valvoline 5W-30 Restore & Protect for life.

 

[factorytuned2012]

can you post that claim from the owner’s manual? About break in oil being 0w-20 and switching to 5w-30 afterwards. You could use 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w30 with no issues if the manual says so.

 

[Bkdc]

Mainia is spot on. Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 forever. Every 4 to 5K miles if possible.

The Hyundai Smartstream engines have a known problem with carbon build-up around the piston rings which eventually lead to issues. I would only run Valvoline Restore & Protect.

 

[BrokenAudiTT]

Here is a picture of the manual

 

[BrokenAudiTT]

Mainia is spot on. Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 forever. Every 4 to 5K miles if possible.

The Hyundai Smartstream engines have a known problem with carbon build-up around the piston rings which eventually lead to issues. I would only run Valvoline Restore & Protect.

Ok thanks I'll use that next time around

 

[dubber09]

I'm with @Propflux01 on this, ESP or Pennzoil LX.
May be run VRP every 4th OCI if so desired.

 

[factorytuned2012]

I don’t see anything on a 20wt id stick with a 5w30 and oe filter keep the warranty gods happy. Just follow the manufacturer recommendations on oci based on your driving style.

 

[Propflux01]

Mainia is spot on. Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 forever. Every 4 to 5K miles if possible.

The Hyundai Smartstream engines have a known problem with carbon build-up around the piston rings which eventually lead to issues. I would only run Valvoline Restore & Protect.

Do you have a linky on this or anything? First I've heard other than the usual carbon build up some GDI engines get.

 

[Bkdc]

I suggest Valvoline Restore and Protect with EVERY oil change. There is just no good reason to choose an alternative. They did make modifications but the design flaws still persist.

 

[Propflux01]

Ok thanks I'll use that next time around

Are you running a

I suggest Valvoline Restore and Protect with EVERY oil change. There is just no good reason to choose an alternative.

That is for 2.5 Smartstream of the early 2020 year. The palisade doesn't use this engine. Smartstream is also now dual injected.

 

[Mainia]

I'm with @Propflux01 on this, ESP or Pennzoil LX.
May be run VRP every 4th OCI if so desired.

Why, Valvoline R&P is a premium oil? I am sure OP isn't thrashing his Palisade like he did/does with his broken TT. I will go out on a limb, could be his wife's truck?? Going on Valvoline USA site it appears Restore and Protect is their top tier oil. VR&P has "75% more wear protection" then their old Advanced branded oil at "40% better wear protection". While that is just advertising, they knew what they had after all the testing, I bet they put some extra $$ into making this a very robust Grade A top tier oil since it is their best oil.

Like I posted a couple times I have used all the top tier oils and most of the boutique oils with the exception of HPL. in my tuner Hyundai. VR&P is the cleanest running oil as all the others were black at the end of my normal 3,000 mile dump. The VR&P was brown and clearer. Not saying black means bad, but I know everyone of you would rather see my brown oil in your car then my black oil. Just saying. As a disclaimer I run VR&P 5w-30 in the fall, summer, spring, ( 4 oil changes of it this winter season) and run 5w40 oil in the summer when I abuse my car more in the high heat.

 

[GSCJR]

5w-40

 

[Mainia]

Do you have a linky on this or anything? First I've heard other than the usual carbon build up some GDI engines get.

There should be far less, since they have 8 injectors , with 4 washing the back of the valves in what ever algorithm they use.

 

[Bkdc]

The Palisade is a 3.8L Lamda G6DB. It is still gasoline direct injected (multipoint injection). It’s not a Theta engine which was plagued with issues but it doesn’t have port injection. If I owned a Hyundai or Kia, I’d be running VRP all the time with 4 to 5K intervals. I guess it depends on what mileage you are aiming for. The Hyundai engines are known to sip oil.

 

[Propflux01]

The Palisade is a 3.8L Lamda G6DB. It is still gasoline direct injected (multipoint injection). It’s not a Theta engine which was plagued with issues but it doesn’t have port injection. If I owned a Hyundai or Kia, I’d be running VRP all the time with 4 to 5K intervals. I guess it depends on what mileage you are aiming for. The Hyundai engines are known to sip oil.

I would use 0w-30 ESP or HPL ester-based oil. And the 3.8L is not a smartstream engine.

 

[Propflux01]

There should be far less, since they have 8 injectors , with 4 washing the back of the valves in what ever algorithm they use.

That was my understanding as well.

 

[Mainia]

I would use 0w-30 ESP or HPL ester-based oil. And the 3.8L is not a smartstream engine.

I ran Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for 2 years straight and it did nothing for my jammed rings that gave me my worst 1.5 qts of fuel dilution in a 3,000 mile oil change scenario during my worst jammed event times. So it would appear my top and second rings were jammed, as I was not burning oil as if the oil control rings were jammed. It took Redline Performance (ester) 5w-30 Euro to unjam my rings. Now I just use VR&P in the winter months and save a ton of money.

 

[tired]

I ran Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for 2 years straight and it did nothing for my jammed rings that gave me my worst 1.5 qts of fuel dilution in a 3,000 mile oil change scenario during my worst jammed event times. So it would appear my top and second rings were jammed, as I was not burning oil as if the oil control rings were jammed. It took Redline Performance (ester) 5w-30 Euro to unjam my rings. Now I just use VR&P in the winter months and save a ton of money.

Did you just run one OCI on Redline? Has the VRP kept your fuel dilution problems at bay?