2021 Hyundai Palisade Oil recommendation?

[ChrisD46]

I ran Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for 2 years straight and it did nothing for my jammed rings that gave me my worst 1.5 qts of fuel dilution in a 3,000 mile oil change scenario during my worst jammed event times. So it would appear my top and second rings were jammed, as I was not burning oil as if the oil control rings were jammed. It took Redline Performance (ester) 5w-30 Euro to unjam my rings. Now I just use VR&P in the winter months and save a ton of money.

Good plan , after VR&P engine clean up I was planning to run either M1 0W30 ESP or M1 5W30 for 2 to 3 OCI’s then switch to VR&P for one OCI and repeat .

 

[Mainia]

Did you just run one OCI on Redline? Has the VRP kept your fuel dilution problems at bay?

No, I ran Redline Performance for about a year+ and that was during covid and then Redline went from $12 to 18 a Qt. That priced me out of use for their engine oil. I did not get the last high price increase as I bought a stash. The highest I paid was $14 a Qt. Since then they reformulated it and cheapen it, while keeping $18 a Qt. In the summer I have been running Motul 8100-Clean 5W-40 Gen 2 with HPL EC40 every other fill to keep the rings clean. This next fall, winter, spring I will run VRP. I have almost no fuel dilution except a tad during the worst part of Minnesota winters, I also have no oil lose. The is speced for 4 liters, but I run 5Qts as the car has extensive suspenion work and can pull some high G's, and I don't want to suck air from long high G exit ramps. It always runs a 1/2 Qt higher then spec.

 

[wemay]

I've used many different 5W-30 synthetic oils in our '22. No issues whatsoever with any of them. From Kirkland to M1 ESP.

The one thing I'm sticking with is 3k mile intervals. Might go VR&P once my M1 stash runs out. But by then, who knows what other new breakthrough has come along.

 

[Mainia]

Good plan , after VR&P engine clean up I was planning to run either M1 0W30 ESP or M1 5W30 for 2 to 3 OCI’s then switch to VR&P for one OCI and repeat .

With how far we have come with oils today as a whole and the new SP ratings, why not just run VRP 5W-30 full time? Why bother with the others. The VRP is better then Valvoline Advanced which many have said is an excelent oil. There is no way you will ever thrash your cars to exceed the oil anyway. I increased my boost from 17 to 23psi and don't have an issue on trusting VRP during the cooler months. I want to see a Euro 0W5W-40 version in the USA, but REALLY I think VRP will far far exceed anything you will throw at it, with the exception of a track day. If you were going to run plain Jane M1..........Don't you think Valvoline's best oil would match or exceed that oil? Plus, as a Valvoline engineer stated, they have seen an ever so slight reduction in some cases of carbon on the valves. I would assume the little donut of carbon on the stem below the valve guide might be the spot that could get some help, you would think??

 

[BrokenAudiTT]

Why, Valvoline R&P is a premium oil? I am sure OP isn't thrashing his Palisade like he did/does with his broken TT. I will go out on a limb, could be his wife's truck?? Going on Valvoline USA site it appears Restore and Protect is their top tier oil. VR&P has "75% more wear protection" then their old Advanced branded oil at "40% better wear protection". While that is just advertising, they knew what they had after all the testing, I bet they put some extra $$ into making this a very robust Grade A top tier oil since it is their best oil.

Like I posted a couple times I have used all the top tier oils and most of the boutique oils with the exception of HPL. in my tuner Hyundai. VR&P is the cleanest running oil as all the others were black at the end of my normal 3,000 mile dump. The VR&P was brown and clearer. Not saying black means bad, but I know everyone of you would rather see my brown oil in your car then my black oil. Just saying. As a disclaimer I run VR&P 5w-30 in the fall, summer, spring, ( 4 oil changes of it this winter season) and run 5w40 oil in the summer when I abuse my car more in the high heat.

I don't thrash my broken Audi TT. It was my first car and it's old 2003 with 136k miles. It's just always has something broken with it. I've fixed most problems expect I get a low voltage code that kills the engine despite having a new battery.
The Hyundai Palisade is my mom's car. She does alot of short trips.

 

[RobbS]

Use Mobil1 EP 5W-30 with the Mobil1 EP Oil Filter.
Period.

 

[tired]

Use Mobil1 EP 5W-30 with the Mobil1 EP Oil Filter.
Period.

Yeah that oil gets recommended here a lot, and a lot of people run it like if you use it you'll never have a problem.

But that's not always the case. Even with appropriate OCIs and use since day 1, that Subaru still burned oil on it.

Even Overkill pulled a ton of carbon from his engine with HPL with M1 EP from day 1.

 

[tired]

With how far we have come with oils today as a whole and the new SP ratings, why not just run VRP 5W-30 full time? Why bother with the others. The VRP is better then Valvoline Advanced which many have said is an excelent oil. There is no way you will ever thrash your cars to exceed the oil anyway. I increased my boost from 17 to 23psi and don't have an issue on trusting VRP during the cooler months. I want to see a Euro 0W5W-40 version in the USA, but REALLY I think VRP will far far exceed anything you will throw at it, with the exception of a track day. If you were going to run plain Jane M1..........Don't you think Valvoline's best oil would match or exceed that oil? Plus, as a Valvoline engineer stated, they have seen an ever so slight reduction in some cases of carbon on the valves. I would assume the little donut of carbon on the stem below the valve guide might be the spot that could get some help, you would think??

As I still wrestle with what the best plan is for motor oil for my cars, I keep coming back to running VRP full time. Not sure there is a downside. The only question mark for me is long term wear results, and I wonder if I could do annual changes with AMSOIL XL or SS given my low mileage for both cars, but we frequently short trip especially during the winter.

 

[Mainia]

Yeah that oil gets recommended here a lot, and a lot of people run it like if you use it you'll never have a problem.

But that's not always the case. Even with appropriate OCIs and use since day 1, that Subaru still burned oil on it.

Even Overkill pulled a ton of carbon from his engine with HPL with M1 EP from day 1.

I ran Mobil 1 ESP for 2 years and it did not un jam my cars rings.

 

[Glenda W.]

I ran Mobil 1 ESP for 2 years and it did not un jam my cars rings.

If it’s not deposits not oil will fix it.

This is why R&P is game changing. Few can keep things clean, less can reverse piston deposits.

 

[THORROMIG]

That PUP 5W30 oil you put in will be just fine and your engine will appreciate it. Stick to 4K OCIs with it moving forward and bumping to a 30 weight full time wouldnt hurt.

 

[RobbS]

Yeah that oil gets recommended here a lot, and a lot of people run it like if you use it you'll never have a problem.

But that's not always the case. Even with appropriate OCIs and use since day 1, that Subaru still burned oil on it.

Even Overkill pulled a ton of carbon from his engine with HPL with M1 EP from day 1.

Yeah, I'm lucky that my two powertrains thrive on it. Filter too.

 

[tired]

Yeah, I'm lucky that my two powertrains thrive on it. Filter too.

Yeah it seems select engines need something different, but it works well for many people.

 

[perkz]

What would be a good oil for my 2021 Hyundai Palisade?

I’ve been getting free oil changes from the dealer, and the reminder sticker from the last one (at 30,000 miles) said they used 0W-20. That seemed a little strange to me — the break-in oil is 0W-20, but the manual says to switch to 5W-30 afterward. I’m not sure if they actually used 0W-20 or if that’s just what they wrote on the sticker.

The owner's manual recommends 5W-30, specifically ACEA A5 if available, or Quaker State 5W-30.

I recently changed the oil myself and used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. It takes about 7 quarts.

I didn’t check the dipstick after draining, but the old oil almost filled an empty 5-quart jug, so I’d estimate about 5.5–6 quarts came out. I’m not sure what the oil level was before I changed it — maybe it was a little low.

Since it’s a GDI engine (and they're known to burn some oil), is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum a good choice, or is there something better I should be using?

The 2025 Hyundai manuals now read:
"Requires <API Latest (or ILSAC Latest) or ACEA A5/B5 Full synthetic> grade engine oil. If a lower grade engine oil (mineral oil including Semi-synthetic) is used, then the engine oil and engine oil filter must be replaced as indicated for severe maintenance conditions."

So any full synthetic with the new API Starburst or ILSAC-6a or above.