My thought process was that a 5000-mile OCI didn't need a full syn 0w-20, especially in Florida. When/if I lived in a cooler climate, I would use 0w-20, but first I'd want to use up my stash. And I'm with you; 7500 miles seems like a 'push' for 3 quarts.
Same Car Same Engine, Different Country Different Oil
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me personally would leave it alone especially under warranty if the vehicle isn’t used much there’s no difference if a 20 or 30wt is in the sump.
My old Nissan Sentra 1.8 engine took 2.8 quarts. Fortunately, the car didn't burn much oil, but I got paranoid when a very naive woman bought the car when we were selling it with 110k miles. I warned her a couple of times to watch the oil level, in part, because it didn't have a whole lot of oil in the first place.
Personally, I'd use 5w30 in that Mitsubishi. The thicker oil is allowed, so why not?
Personally, I'd use 5w30 in that Mitsubishi. The thicker oil is allowed, so why not?
Because I've used everything from 0w-20 to 5w-40 in my vehicles and the fuel I've saved is in the noise.
I thought you were a LONG time 0W-20 user. No?
What happened? Did the little guy fail you?
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Peer pressure!!I thought you were a LONG time 0W-20 user. No?
What happened? Did the little guy fail you?
I ran all manner of non-spec oil in my wife's old car, a 2018 Mitsubishi Outlander. Ran perfect, oil level never went down on the dipstick, and fuel mileage was consistent between thin and thick.
Ran at various times:
0w20 (the car came with included service first 36K so it got 5k intervals on dealer bulk 0w20)
5w20
5w30
10w30
Ran at various times:
0w20 (the car came with included service first 36K so it got 5k intervals on dealer bulk 0w20)
5w20
5w30
10w30
I switched the 2007 Fusion to M1 5-30HM at about 280K because of a very slight rear main seal weep. The car now has 333K and still runs and performs great. I went ahead and changed out the 2017 Fusion to 5-30 EP at about the same time. The M1 0-20 performed very well in both Fords.I thought you were a LONG time 0W-20 user. No?
What happened? Did the little guy fail you?
I realize this is a heavily devoted topic, but I am still wondering - has anyone ever experienced problems running the specified 0/5w-20, or is the 'thicker is better mantra just hype?
Same in my 2012 Tundra, 2020 Pilot and 2022 Accord. Actually considering going from 5W30 to 0W40 now that I'm living in Idaho
Does your 2017 Fusion have the Duratec (MZR based) 2.5 or the Ecoboost? I'm not surprised you're at 1/3 of a million miles on the Duratec but I'd be surprised if the turboed engine went that far.
M1 EP 5w30, Amsoil SS 5w30, Redline HP 0w30 & im sure high-performance has something as well. The three qt sump would worry me too. Put a really good oil filter on and just top off religiously! If its got a manual, rock the Redline MTL or their Non Slip PAO CVT Fluid if you got the CVT.
I think it would be fun and pointless BUT fun to run a small oil cooler, custom exhaust (no fart can) and maybe sway and strut bars.
My 2023 Honda Civic Touring Sedan with the 1.5t has a capacity of 3.7 quarts with filter. I changed from Mobil1 0w20 EP to Mobil1 5w30 EP and 3-4k OCI's. Haven't noticed a difference in mpg, still runs 40+ mpg highway driving.
A car that can run a zero weight oil is running at 40C a 69 mm2/s oil. Yet it can't run at the 40 weight @ 100 C, mm2/s of 12.9? That is absurd.
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