Oil for maximum cleaning?

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I’ve posted a couple of threads about my 2009 Scion with the oil burning 2az-fe engine so I won’t elaborate here and just jump straight to the question. What oil and change interval would you use if you were trying to flush out your oil control rings? I was thinking a synthetic 0w-20, but that’s mostly because I have a few bottles of Harvest King I don‘t need. Maybe a couple of 2000 mile changes and then reasses?

The engine specifies 5w-20 or 0w-20. I know Royal Purple has a lot of detergents so maybe a jug of it to start?
 

Elkins45

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A Google search for Valvoline Premium Blue Restore doesn’t reveal anyone actually selling the stuff, unless I skipped over it somehow.
 
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Didnt you say you used an engine flush and drove some hundreds of miles.

Sounds like you have oil consumption. If you do how much is it and what exact oil are you using.

The vast majority of oil arent very detergent until you get to the pure ck rated diesel oils like castrol gtx diesel or shell rotella t4, They usually have at least 2000ppm of calcium and being thicker theyll burn less. i use diesel oil in my gas engines since i ran out of euro oil. I get gtx diesel since home depot sells it at 10.97 but check online first. Supertech diesel is also good, bought gallons before the price went up.
 

Elkins45

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Didnt you say you used an engine flush and drove some hundreds of miles.

Sounds like you have oil consumption. If you do how much is it and what exact oil are you using.

The vast majority of oil arent very detergent until you get to the pure ck rated diesel oils like castrol gtx diesel or shell rotella t4, They usually have at least 2000ppm of calcium and being thicker theyll burn less. i use diesel oil in my gas engines since i ran out of euro oil. I get gtx diesel since home depot sells it at 10.97 but check online first. Supertech diesel is also good, bought gallons before the price went up.
I did a piston soak and it gave me a great improvement, but I’m trying to see if I can do even better. Diesel oil makes sense and I have some left over from my tractor so that makes it an even easier choice.
 
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Maybe run it with lubegard biotech. I'd also run some pea fuel cleaner. Maybe do the gumout multitune in the oil crankcase prior. Let us know what you do.
 
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I did a piston soak and it gave me a great improvement, but I’m trying to see if I can do even better. Diesel oil makes sense and I have some left over from my tractor so that makes it an even easier choice.
so did you use an engine flush? and what's the consumption amount and oil grade? if you didn't I'd just suggest you dump a whole can of Walmart brand seafoam into your current fill and drive on it for a few hundred miles at least.
 
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A Google search for Valvoline Premium Blue Restore doesn’t reveal anyone actually selling the stuff, unless I skipped over it somehow.


Cummins dealership/shops sell the Valvoline Premium Blue restore oil.

There's one near me in Richmond Va that has it for like $70+ .
 

Elkins45

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so did you use an engine flush? and what's the consumption amount and oil grade? if you didn't I'd just suggest you dump a whole can of Walmart brand seafoam into your current fill and drive on it for a few hundred miles at least.
Yes, I did a whole bunch of stuff. This is just a next step before I do a second piston soak in a few thousand miles. See here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/update-to-oil-guzzling-scion-xb.349470/

The Cliff’s Notes are that a piston soak took it from a quart every 300 miles to close to a quart per thousand now using 10w-30.
 

Astro14

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I’d go with this:

 
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Royal Purple is a copycat of Valvoline with some purple dye.

If you want cleaning power, don't look at detergents. They're important for neutralizing and isolating sludge that gets kicked up into suspension, but they don't really clean per say. Detergents (detergent inhibitors) are acid neutralizers in the form of calcium and magnesium sulfonate which is found over the counter at pharmacies under the names Tums and Milk of Magnesia. The same way they neutralize acids in your gut that cause heartburn and indigestion, they neutralize acids in the oil that cause oxidation and corrosion. They exist more to keep the oil clean, not clean the engine.

If you want cleaning power, you want an oil with a good bit of ester. High Performance Lubricants has a cleaning oil that's ester based and replaces 1 quart in your sump for a short OCI.

If your oil consumption is due to coking or stuck rings, some extensive cleaning may help. However, if the consumption is due to worn rings, no amount of cleaning will stop it.
 
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Yes, I did a whole bunch of stuff. This is just a next step before I do a second piston soak in a few thousand miles. See here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/update-to-oil-guzzling-scion-xb.349470/

The Cliff’s Notes are that a piston soak took it from a quart every 300 miles to close to a quart per thousand now using 10w-30.
What temperatures do you see. If it was my engine id just try another engine flush for a half thousand miles and add another can half way through and use a high calcium diesel oil. But if it doesn't help much 1 quart per 1000m with a 10w-30 isnt all that bad. Most 10w-30's are around 10.5-11cst kv100. Most 15w-40's are 14-15. Most 10w-40's are 15-16. in the warmer part of the year like 50f or above id use 20w-50 and not worry about it. I'd just use a good oil filter with metal caps and metal crimp like the supertech MP or fram ultra since the oil pressure will be higher.
 
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Royal Purple is a copycat of Valvoline with some purple dye.

If you want cleaning power, don't look at detergents. They're important for neutralizing and isolating sludge that gets kicked up into suspension, but they don't really clean per say. Detergents (detergent inhibitors) are acid neutralizers in the form of calcium and magnesium sulfonate which is found over the counter at pharmacies under the names Tums and Milk of Magnesia. The same way they neutralize acids in your gut that cause heartburn and indigestion, they neutralize acids in the oil that cause oxidation and corrosion. They exist more to keep the oil clean, not clean the engine.

If you want cleaning power, you want an oil with a good bit of ester. High Performance Lubricants has a cleaning oil that's ester based and replaces 1 quart in your sump for a short OCI.

If your oil consumption is due to coking or stuck rings, some extensive cleaning may help. However, if the consumption is due to worn rings, no amount of cleaning will stop it.
Literally royal purple is just Valvoline but with maybe a bit more moly like 200ppm more and purple dye. I thought i was the only one who thought that.
 

Elkins45

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If your oil consumption is due to coking or stuck rings, some extensive cleaning may help. However, if the consumption is due to worn rings, no amount of cleaning will stop it.
Given the 3X reduction in consumption after the piston soak I’m leaning toward plugged drain holes and stuck oil control rings. It’s a known problem with these engines. I have a can of BG EPR I’m going to use before I drain it the next time.
 
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Astro14 posted his recommendation before I could send the same. I have some of the High Performance 10w30 HDEO ready for use in the cars.. for the spring oil changes. I like the idea of trying the engine cleaner product. Kreen from Kano Labs would be my second choice for a piston soak..
 
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I’ve posted a couple of threads about my 2009 Scion with the oil burning 2az-fe engine so I won’t elaborate here and just jump straight to the question. What oil and change interval would you use if you were trying to flush out your oil control rings? I was thinking a synthetic 0w-20, but that’s mostly because I have a few bottles of Harvest King I don‘t need. Maybe a couple of 2000 mile changes and then reasses?

The engine specifies 5w-20 or 0w-20. I know Royal Purple has a lot of detergents so maybe a jug of it to start?

Chevron Delo XLE 10w30

It is inexpensive and is a dual rated HDEO that is also API SN PLUS certified for gasoline engine usage. It has a ton of cleaning agents in it and is a very stout oil. I am using it in my Hyundai GDI engine that is one of the dirtiest running engines I've ever seen to mitigate that inherent issue.
 
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