Oil for maximum cleaning?

It's a good time to try the HPL Engine Cleaner and run it exactly as the instructions say to do it.
Also, some of the higher Ester oils are known to help with stuck rings. Like Redline, Motul 300V, Amsoil Signature Series. The old standby Rotella has a rep for cleaning sludge.
It makes sense that if the HPL dissolves and disperses the carbon in the ring grooves, it should clean it up. The problem is oil going past the oil control rings. This means the cleaning oil is going to be drawn up where you need it. It probably works best when used over multiple drives where it has a chance to sit on the rings for a while when the engine is not running so it dissolves the carbon, then that stuff is cleaned off and the oil is circulated again during the next engine run. So normal daily driving vice going for a long, multi-hour trip.
5 minute flushes are going to give you 5 minute results. And transmission fluid has no detergents to break down engine carbon, it's just thin the oil as far as an engine. It got it's reputation as a cleaner when it contained Sperm Oil, which is an Ester. There hasn't been Sperm Oil in it for 50 years or more.
 
What cleaning agents does the oil have that a) will clean an already dirty, contaminated engine and b) that other oils don't have? What do you mean when you say it "is a very stout oil." What makes it more "stout" than other oils?

Are you not familiar with what makes a HDEO different from a standard fare PCMO?
 
Chevron Delo XLE 10w30

It is inexpensive and is a dual rated HDEO that is also API SN PLUS certified for gasoline engine usage. It has a ton of cleaning agents in it and is a very stout oil. I am using it in my Hyundai GDI engine that is one of the dirtiest running engines I've ever seen to mitigate that inherent issue.
I did a Google search and the cheapest I could find it is $29 a gallon. Ouch!
 
Are you not familiar with what makes a HDEO different from a standard fare PCMO?
No, I'm not. Perhaps you can tell me? However, I am not sure that oil contains cleaning agents. For example:

If you want cleaning power, don't look at detergents. They're important for neutralizing and isolating sludge that gets kicked up into suspension, but they don't really clean per say. Detergents (detergent inhibitors) are acid neutralizers in the form of calcium and magnesium sulfonate which is found over the counter at pharmacies under the names Tums and Milk of Magnesia. The same way they neutralize acids in your gut that cause heartburn and indigestion, they neutralize acids in the oil that cause oxidation and corrosion. They exist more to keep the oil clean, not clean the engine.

So, I'm a bit confused.
 
Seafoam is not a great cleaner. It's mostly a light pale oil with mineral spirits. It flashes off very quickly. A dedicated cleaner producing that uses esters is more effective and much lower risk.
I'm now informed. Thank you
 
Back in ancient times (leaded gasoline and into the early unleaded era), and when sludge was a persistent problem, I want to say GUMOUT had a product you added to the engine oil, and let it run for about 20 minutes or thereabouts. The stuff that usually came out of the drain hole resembled curdled paint. One engine in particular, it was in a late 1960s Pontiac, it would barely turn over. We drained the crankcase of the sludged up oil and ran several bouts of Kerosene through it. After about the 4th time and it drained clean (clean enough for govt work), we put fresh 10W-30 in, and it would spin right over and ran like it hadn't run in years.

With modern oils and detergents, this procedure is probably NOT recommended because it will be unnecessary . . .
 
I did a Google search and the cheapest I could find it is $29 a gallon. Ouch!
Yeah and it's not super detergent either compared to regular $11-13 gal jugs of diesel oil. I'd suggest castrol gtx diesel from home depot since it's still pre inflation priced but check online for store quantity.
 
Yeah and it's not super detergent either compared to regular $11-13 gal jugs of diesel oil. I'd suggest castrol gtx diesel from home depot since it's still pre inflation priced but check online for store quantity.

We're not simply trying to find a diesel oil here, I recommended what I recommended because it is not only an HDEO rated for diesel usage but also dual rated for gasoline usage as well achieving API SN PLUS certification no less.

There are not many oil products out there that can commonly claim all of those things and if they can they are usually far more expensive than Chevron Delo XLE 10w30 which at least in my area can commonly be had for less than $20 per gallon.
 
We're not simply trying to find a diesel oil here, I recommended what I recommended because it is not only an HDEO rated for diesel usage but also dual rated for gasoline usage as well achieving API SN PLUS certification no less.

There are not many oil products out there that can commonly claim all of those things and if they can they are usually far more expensive than Chevron Delo XLE 10w30 which at least in my area can commonly be had for less than $20 per gallon.
i understand but the ck-4/sn rating isnt too important as his engine isnt lspi prone. if it was then yes and i commented that in a thread about a guys new 2.3l ecoboost ranger. Engines that are lspi prone shouldn't use high saps oil like gtx diesel or t4 but his engine is fine in that regard. delo is a great oil for gdi gas engines since it has 14000ppm calcium and 700 magnesium so pretty safe and zinc and ph is lower than some gas oils.
 

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How about Rotella 10w-30? It lost the S rating a couple of years ago but would it still be OK? I used to use it in my truck for years when I would catch it on sale.
 
Amsoil engine flush or liquimoli. If its a clogging issue, these will resolve it. An oil that is high in esthers will clean...but its very gentle and you are likely not going to see results in a reasonable time. Redline oil is high in esters. At $50 for 4 qt., its pretty expensive.
 
We're not simply trying to find a diesel oil here, I recommended what I recommended because it is not only an HDEO rated for diesel usage but also dual rated for gasoline usage as well achieving API SN PLUS certification no less.

There are not many oil products out there that can commonly claim all of those things and if they can they are usually far more expensive than Chevron Delo XLE 10w30 which at least in my area can commonly be had for less than $20 per gallon.

So you're basing this cleaning ability off a dual API rating?
 
So you're basing this cleaning ability off a dual API rating?

Nope, if you read through what I have posted in this thread I am basing what I have related on the fact that it is an HDEO. This is why I love BITOG, it's not enough for someone to ask for suggestions and have them given... what is suggested must apparently be thoroughly explained as if a mere suggestion alone simply is just not good enough. I love educating people on this website 🥰
 
Nope, if you read through what I have posted in this thread I am basing what I have related on the fact that it is an HDEO. This is why I love BITOG, it's not enough for someone to ask for suggestions and have them given... what is suggested must apparently be thoroughly explained as if a mere suggestion alone simply is just not good enough. I love educating people on this website 🥰

There's nothing specific to an HDEO that makes it better at cleaning existing sludge, especially the cookie cutter API oils. To clean, you need solvency to dissolve the sludge. There's no significant difference in solvency between HDEOs and PCMOs. That's the whole reason Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W-30 was created. It's ~60% ester base oil which is a good solvent for dissolving sludge. That's also why HPL cleaning oil exists.

Engine oils, especially API oils, aren't focused on cleaning pre-existing sludge. Their aim is prevention. You wouldn't want to formulate an oil with a lot of ester within the restrictive API realm anyway as it would be inhibitive of anti-wear performance and reduce service life, especially in engines that see a bit of fuel and water dilution. Not too mention the cost.
 
There's nothing specific to an HDEO that makes it better at cleaning existing sludge, especially the cookie cutter API oils. To clean, you need solvency to dissolve the sludge. There's no significant difference in solvency between HDEOs and PCMOs. That's the whole reason Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W-30 was created. It's ~60% ester base oil which is a good solvent for dissolving sludge. That's also why HPL cleaning oil exists.

Engine oils, especially API oils, aren't focused on cleaning pre-existing sludge. Their aim is prevention. You wouldn't want to formulate an oil with a lot of ester within the restrictive API realm anyway as it would be inhibitive of anti-wear performance and reduce service life, especially in engines that see a bit of fuel and water dilution. Not too mention the cost.

If I could find Valvoline Premium Blue Restore I would happily use it but as I (and many others) have had difficulty simply locating it for purchase I have found my aforementioned oil of choice to be a good buy and am considering the usage of BG EPR as well. Bye for now 👋
 
I’ve posted a couple of threads about my 2009 Scion with the oil burning 2az-fe engine so I won’t elaborate here and just jump straight to the question. What oil and change interval would you use if you were trying to flush out your oil control rings? I was thinking a synthetic 0w-20, but that’s mostly because I have a few bottles of Harvest King I don‘t need. Maybe a couple of 2000 mile changes and then reasses?

The engine specifies 5w-20 or 0w-20. I know Royal Purple has a lot of detergents so maybe a jug of it to start?
Old time product from way way back. Surprised to see they still in operation. They were pretty popular in the 60s & 70s.... :unsure:

engineflushbyBardahl.jpg
 
Amsoil engine flush or liquimoli. If its a clogging issue, these will resolve it. An oil that is high in esthers will clean...but its very gentle and you are likely not going to see results in a reasonable time. Redline oil is high in esters. At $50 for 4 qt., its pretty expensive.
I have purchased motor flush products in the past when stocking up. Those bottles sat n sat unused in the cabinet in my garage for very long times. Even Amsoil's flush treatment "for engine and transmission use" was among those I had accumulated at some point. They were eventually given to someone with an older engine or to use before they opened up an engine for inspection, repairs or rebuilds. I never could get myself to put those in any of my engines. Never got to the point of needing a real "flush" tretment product anyway since the 70s. Now I would just use an oil to do it.
 
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