You would likely find that most engine durability cycles run at 250F oil in the pan temp as a minimum.
Looking forward to your resultsI have concerns running 0w-20 in any turbo car. I to own a GR Corolla and I've been thinking about this since I bought it more than 3 years ago. I have used 5w-30 in the summers with excellent OCI results. I could also run it year round as I don't see winter temps lower than the 20F-30F and in my garage the temps are around 55F. I'll know for sure what it will like after I get done with some more of my testing.
There's zero reason to switch back and forth between a 20 grade and 30 grade oil between the seasons.I have concerns running 0w-20 in any turbo car. I to own a GR Corolla and I've been thinking about this since I bought it more than 3 years ago. I have used 5w-30 in the summers with excellent OCI results. I could also run it year round as I don't see winter temps lower than the 20F-30F and in my garage the temps are around 55F. I'll know for sure what it will like after I get done with some more of my testing.
Swapping viscosity between seasons is a no sum gain of zero.I have concerns running 0w-20 in any turbo car. I to own a GR Corolla and I've been thinking about this since I bought it more than 3 years ago. I have used 5w-30 in the summers with excellent OCI results. I could also run it year round as I don't see winter temps lower than the 20F-30F and in my garage the temps are around 55F. I'll know for sure what it will like after I get done with some more of my testing.
Not sure why you would say this as it could be viable for people that live in extreme temperature ranges. This being said I pointed out that I would be fine running 5w-30 year round in my region.Swapping viscosity between seasons is a no sum gain of zero.
It's not the 1950s anymore.
No. The oil doesn't care what the weather is. Only the xW figure matters for startup. Otherwise, just no.Not sure why you would say this as it could be viable for people that live in extreme temperature ranges. This being said I pointed out that I would be fine running 5w-30 year round in my region.![]()
I didn't say I would be doing that. I did it this past winter as I'm testing both 0w-20 and 5w-30 with Lake Speed Jr. That being said, for people that live with summer heat and much colder winter temps I could see why people do it. In the summer people may drive their cars harder, track it, and see much higher oil temps. Lake didn't say anything negative about this practice even though I'm not planning on doing it.There's zero reason to switch back and forth between a 20 grade and 30 grade oil between the seasons.
As I've said, I never planned on doing it. I've tested both viscosities to see what my engine liked and how it worked with both viscosities. The ow-20 is what is recommended, I wanted to see if 5w-30 or even 0w-30 was a better option. This is where Lake Speed Jr said let's test them both and see what the actual numbers say. Doing research on this website can take some time and doesn't happen overnight.No. The oil doesn't care what the weather is. Only the xW figure matters for startup. Otherwise, just no.
You should do some research on this website.
! Statement made.Not sure why you would say this as it could be viable for people that live in extreme temperature ranges.
What is the difference if you change oil and filter every six months ? . 0w20 in winter & 5w-30 in summer , in Wisconsin there is a fairly large seasonal temperature swing, -35f to 100f.There's zero reason to switch back and forth between a 20 grade and 30 grade oil between the seasons.
Because the engine controls the oil temp, not Mother Nature. She's busy trying to halt fake cheese and margarine from being sold in Wisconsin.What is the difference if you change oil and filter every six months ? . 0w20 in winter & 5w-30 in summer , in Wisconsin there is a fairly large seasonal temperature swing, -35f to 100f.
Does your car talk to you like Lightning McQueen?I've tested both viscosities to see what my engine liked
Lake is wrong. He doesn't know what he's talking about here. You can't compare oils by bench racing them with UOAs. One oil will have 1 ppm lower iron, and he'll say it's better.This is where Lake Speed Jr said let's test them both and see what the actual numbers say
It goes faster if you read more and don't with those who have been here awhile and know what they're talking about.Doing research on this website can take some time and doesn't happen overnight.
So you know more than Lake???,perhaps you should contact him with some of your questions instead of just undermining him. and keep us posted on the possible answers. so, a learning process can occur.Does your car talk to you like Lightning McQueen?
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Or do you have to hook up an OBD II scanner to hear what it says?
Lake is wrong. He doesn't know what he's talking about here. You can't compare oils by bench racing them with UOAs. One oil will have 1 ppm lower iron, and he'll say it's better.
It goes faster if you read more and don't with those who have been here awhile and know what they're talking about.
That's what multi-viscosity oils do. xW for starting in the cold, -X for running. This "change viscosity to the season" went away by 1960. We're in a new century and 60 years beyond this.called experience, as when a car sits out in subzero, you want the oil to flow and lube the engine as soon as possible or when hot outside sitting in traffic and oil is at a very hot temp for better protection.
Yep, agree, and that's why you look at the winter rating, not the oil's grade. (First numbers, to clarify, not the oil's second numbers.)as when a car sits out in subzero, you want the oil to flow and lube the engine as soon as possible
There's never a time when I want less protection, so that's why I run a 30 or 40 grade oil. I still want good protection when it's winter, so I don't change my oil's grade.when hot outside sitting in traffic and oil is at a very hot temp for better protection.
I'm not unique. I'm just one of many here.So you know more than Lake???