Based on info here and in various YouTube videos showing the issue it doesn't seem that rare. Enough instances for me to not use any M+H made filters when I can use others that have no issues.wonder if the glue situation on Purolator is a rare thing.
Unfortunately not. Those that follow the oil filter section here see the glue and other M+H QC problems regularly.wonder if the glue situation on Purolator is a rare thing.
But with end cap and bypass on top since it's a top mount filter won't it allow some air past it also just like it's bypassing oil? What check valves or is just oil pump after it comes through media to center tube? Does that stay totally full when motor is off?Two different independant type of leaks. The ADBV leaking allows air into the oiling system when the engine is off. Inernal leakage past the leaf spring sealing gap at the end cap allows dirty oil to bypass the media when oil is flow through the filter.
The gap between the leaf spring and end cap has no way to allow oil to flow or leak in or out of the base plate like the ADBV. The leak gap at the leaf spring to end cap only allows oil to bypass the media when there's oil flowing through the filter.But with end cap and bypass on top since it's a top mount filter won't it allow some air past it also just like it's bypassing oil? What check valves or is just oil pump after it comes through media to center tube? Does that stay totally full when motor is off?
Deja vu......What about Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 ? A stout lEuro oil which great approvals which gives a 12K mile OCI ?
My car: 2022 BMW 740i 3.0 liter L-6 turbo GDI (B58TU in BMW nomenclature).my vehicle is still under warranty ,they said if I don't use their oil (Idemitsu/Subaru) my warranty maybe not be valid if needed, well I change my own oil (use vacuum extractor) and use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 in winter and 5w-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in summer and runs just fine, however I tried ESP 0w-30 and did not like how the engine performed ,like rather sluggish and a bit of start up clatter (same /similar OAT ), and say less responsive with this oil (ESP) ,why is a mystery? only to think the overall running viscosity was to high for this engine specked for 0w-16, then went to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and the situation improved over the ESP,as Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 is on the thinner side of the J300 chart and the 0w-20 is on the higher side, the ESP is to my observations too thick overall viscosity for this engine, and perhaps other engines ? . and it has not burned any oil in unusual amount. also paying attention to the MRV and CCS test results, in comparison to Euro oils might just be a point to consider , ,especially in colder climates.
Castrol Edge extended performance 0w-20 (gold jug at Walmart) may also be a good oil ,its has some euro specs ,or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20.My car: 2022 BMW 740i 3.0 liter L-6 turbo GDI (B58TU in BMW nomenclature).
I bought the car with ~26K miles...the oil had been changed but I don't know what they used... I'm assuming what BMW called for: 0W-20. The engine always sounded quiet and peppy and I averaged 28.5 MPG during the first year and a half.
I did the first oil change after a year and a half...about 3,000 miles. The oil that came out looked pretty clean. I filled it with Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30.
I used a Mahle oil filter.
Now, the engine seems a little more clickety/noisy, not as eager to rev/sluggish, and my gas mileage seems to have gone down by 2-3 MPG.
I never posted anything about it because, according to everything I have read, there can be no basis in fact for what I have observed, but your post gave me the courage to report that I have noticed some changes similar to yours after changing over to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30.
I have read that the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 is nearly a 40 weight in viscosity, and assuming the prior fill was 0W-20, that would mean the hot oil viscosity went from a 20 to nearly a 40 weight, but I admit I am skeptical that could cause the changes I have observed. Nevertheless, I think I, too, will try another oil, or maybe just another weight of ESP (OW-20?) with my next oil change.
You would like to think that’s the case - but then there are Hyundai / Kia 2.4L engines where 5W20 is stamped on the oil cap but Hyundai / Kia switched to 5W30 which is also allowed (along with 10W30). An engine hard on oil with GDI fuel dilution using 5W20 over 7,500 miles listed as a normal OCI was not such a good outcome.Do you understand what the numbers in oil viscosity mean ? 0W is better in "icy cold winter" than 5W.
And why refer to that "AI reply" when you say what her car calls for. I'm not anti-AI, but if the oil cap, owners manual, etc says what to use, that's the end of it.
Adjust? Engines don’t adjust to anything.Thanks for the suggestions. In reality, I can probably use just about any oil. The car hasn't gone 30K miles yet and I don't drive it too hard and I only drive it about 2K miles per year; that could change in the future, but if not, I can't imagine the car and engine not outlasting me (I turn 70 in a few weeks). I thought I would try the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 because it seems to have a good reputation, plus why not? Maybe the engine or I will adjust to the current fill? My car takes 7 quarts. I bought two 5 quart jugs, so I have 3 quarts of the 0W-30 left over... maybe I will buy one 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 ESP 0W-20 and add 2 quarts of the "leftover" 0W-30 that I still have to make a total of 7 quarts. I expect that, being from the same manufacturer and family, they will be compatible.
BMW "specs" an approval which requires a minimum HT/HS.My reasoning:
BMW specs 0W-20. I've read the ESP 0W-30 viscosity is close to a 40 weight. Maybe it's a little too thick for that engine? Or maybe the Vanos and Valvetronic need to adjust? I expect mixing 20 and 30 weight will result in something in between and closer to the 20 weight BMW recommended. Why didn't I just go with 0W-20 in the first place? Because I have read countless posts saying that BMW only specs 20 weight in this country to meet CAFE standards, and B58 is very happy running xW-30 or xW-40 oil...so I tried some 0W-30, but so far, it seems like the engine ran quieter and better on what was in it when I got it... presumably 0W-20, but that is not certain.
I'm going to run the 0W-30 for a year/2,000 miles, and then decide.
The oil cap, owners manual, etc, says what CAFE demands, and that's the end of it.but if the oil cap, owners manual, etc says what to use, that's the end of it.
Not disputing that aspect of it, but my point is, whatever oil those say to use, they are 100% SAFE to use. Are they the best ? That's not the point.The oil cap, owners manual, etc, says what CAFE demands, and that's the end of it.
Don't know what the concern is. If BMW uses xW-30 or xW-40 in the same engines in other countries (without CAFE) then that should show that basically anything between xW-20 and xW-40 can be used with no concern. The OM "recommends" not "requires".My reasoning:
BMW specs 0W-20. I've read the ESP 0W-30 viscosity is close to a 40 weight. Maybe it's a little too thick for that engine? Or maybe the Vanos and Valvetronic need to adjust? I expect mixing 20 and 30 weight will result in something in between and closer to the 20 weight BMW recommended. Why didn't I just go with 0W-20 in the first place? Because I have read countless posts saying that BMW only specs 20 weight in this country to meet CAFE standards, and B58 is very happy running xW-30 or xW-40 oil...so I tried some 0W-30, but so far, it seems like the engine ran quieter and better on what was in it when I got it... presumably 0W-20, but that is not certain.
I'm going to run the 0W-30 for a year/2,000 miles, and then decide.