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- Jan 18, 2026
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humm Quaker State Full Synthetic 10w30 has similar or lower ccs as 10w30 amsoil oe
There are cheaper and more widely available than Amsoil.what does this have to do with Amsoil OE?
There are cheaper and more widely available than Amsoil.
the fact that we on this forum means CCN's video is not targeted towards us. But I essentially agree with everything says in the video.Car Care Nut posted this video earlier today and discusses pretty much this subject in regards to oil for Toyotas.
A great example of why product name abbreviations aren’t great. I have no clue what that means.humm Quaker State Full Synthetic 10w30
Quaker State Full SyntheticA great example of why product name abbreviations aren’t great. I have no clue what that means.
It's an "I'm telling you what YOU should do thing" with some people here. I mean many posters here don't even know the OP is in Australia, for example, yet they see Amsoil (or not) and the mission is: "here are some other oils."The OP was asking about Amsoil
You can get far better oils for less. You can get AMSOIL Signature Series for close to that if you buy the case of 4 gallon jugs. Gotta be kidding me if you're paying that for TGMO.I’ve been buying TGMO 0w-20 for the Tacoma. It’s hard to get it for less than $10 quart shipped. My understanding is it’s got a very substantial add pack, which with auto start/stop and hybrid (my case) even more as/s; big add-pack is appropriate.
The car calls for a 10k mile OCI. And it uses an oil-chewing chain. It won’t surprise me if the taco 2.4L is hard on oil in this guise.
I’m on the fence personally regarding staying with TGMO vs going to amsoil. I’ll say this, in the taco, a 25% ratio of synthetic 5-30 is a significant game changer in NVH, especially as it tries to lug itself up the highway at 55mph and 1400 rpm. It’s such a large difference that I question if 0-20 is the right oil for that application.
The OP was asking about Amsoil
Yes, but he is asked for Amsoil OE, not AMSOIL Signature Series. The the price difference between OE and SS is like $5 per quart.It's an "I'm telling you what YOU should do thing" with some people here.
I think OE looks pretty good still. The Noack on the 10W-30 is like 4.5%. So you know they're still using good base oils. Maybe not in a turbo GDI application.OE is good oil. There are a few used oil analysis posted.
Amsoil makes variety of 0W-20 oils that are API listed. I would run the High Mileage or the XL.
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XL answers the question thoughI think OE looks pretty good still. The Noack on the 10W-30 is like 4.5%. So you know they're still using good base oils. Maybe not in a turbo GDI application.
And the difference between XL and SS is like less than a dollar a quart. Might as well go to SS for that.
Sure. Part of the reason for staying with TGMO for the first few OCs is due to the perception of increased potential for warranty work. Toyota’s rap right now isn’t as solid and I’m being careful; it’s one less “dealer argument” to worry about. I will likely change later, just like I did when I bought my first new car, in 2018, ford. Used FoMoCo oil for the first couple of years.You can get far better oils for less. You can get AMSOIL Signature Series for close to that if you buy the case of 4 gallon jugs. Gotta be kidding me if you're paying that for TGMO.
What exactly is a "substantial" or "big" add pack?
Have you considered that maybe it needs so many additives for its lower base oil quality?