Look you know my answer to that so just give it a rest.
Amsoil Signature Series warranty discussion
- Thread starter dseg42
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I don’t really. I wasn’t being sarcastic but it is relevant to this thread.
Maybe.
To expand, "if" there is a failure and "if"someone decides to make an issue of it which are all very big "ifs". And he has correspondence with the manufacturer who says talk to the dealer which he did and the dealer said it was fine, so that reduces the maybe but doesn't eliminate it.
The reality is that an engine failure with most manufacturers is pretty uncommon particularly without outright neglect...
Do i think the oil will be fine,? Yes, Do i think there is a non-zero chance if the thing blows up some pencil pusher in the warranty department having a bad day is going to get a hair and cause problems? Yes.
Ive always said the technical discussion of if the oil is fine and the discussion of if there will be warranty issues are separate issues.
I've actually in the distant past been involved in this at a dealer and still have friends who are in a dealer... though the Hyundai is now separate from the GM dealer.
My advice is always that following the manufacturers recommendation is always the path to minimum hassle if something happens.
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Sound advice. This situation is a bit different in that the oil they're recommending is hard to find or doesn't exist (in the case of Quaker State), so it's difficult to comply even if I didn't have a preference in oil. The OM needs to be updated which I relayed to the manufacturer in my email.
Because if the dealer gives out wrong info, and a warranty claim is denied, guess who gets 100% of the repair costs? That’s correct, the dealer!!
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I've done the research to know Amsoil SS 0w30 meets or exceeds API SN+, among many other certs. Plus, I've had personal experience with my 2013s that Amsoil helps them run quieter and smoother. I'm sold on the oil.
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I was at another Hyundai dealer and talked to the shop foreman about whether an oil needs to be "certified" and he said no, it just needs to meet the requirements. Amsoil is more than fine.
So what are the requirements for API SN+ and can you show us the results of the test that show that the oil meets are exceeds those requirements?
And what other certs did you look at exactly, and what are the requirements and the results for those certifications?
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Absolutely. I used a Hewlett Packard 5710A dual-column gas chromatograph with flame analyzation detectors.
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Ask BS questions, get BS answers.
Seems like this issue would be more of an issue at dealers of other makes (looking at you, Ford)-good news is, Hyundai has a lot of experience replacing Theta engines, etc., so I don’t think they would split hairs on an unlikely Amsoil lubrication issue.
The only person that matters in that discussion is the manufacturer, not a franchised dealer representitive.
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True but the manufacturer made it abundantly clear to me that they rely on the dealers to decide if it’s a lubrication issue. In this case, two dealers stated certs aren’t a dealbreaker and meeting the requirements and OCIs are what matter.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Honestly, my wife's 2.0 MPI bottom-end, with only 34k on the odometer, still sounds like a sewing machine at work on cold startup (40 degrees F), with Amsoil Euro 0w30. It's no quieter than this past summer fill of Quaker State Euro 5w40.
..... and no, it's not the oil filter barking at cold startup. That was the first thing I checked.
What I have is an engine that I declare troublesome and the dealer service manager declares Normal. Now my wife picked out this Kia Soul at the new dealership in 2020 and will not surrender it for trade-in or sale. There's no parting with it.
I will be staring at this 2020 Kia Soul for many years to come...... hopefully the engine stays together well.
100% - they will ask the dealer to make the call, I just always read this stuff and nothing is a "absolute" on this topic beyond using whatever is listed in the owner's manual.
When an engine failure occurs there can be several different paths to warranty reimbursement but in general they involve the following entities....
1. Dealership diagnostic information (dealership employees)
2. Regional representative impressions (regional techs that work for the manufacturer and check on high dollar repairs).
3. The manufacturer themselves.
Ideally you want all parties involved to agree the warranty claim should be approved. With any one of these entities in disagreement, you may experience a denial.
In engine claims the data that will almost always be requested is:
1. Diagnostic report from dealership.
2. ECU data dump which indicates to the manufacturer the operating conditions at the time of the failure as well as historical data that is of relevance (number of times over redline, last oil change reset, rpm, all temps from all sensors, knk data, checksums, fuel trims, egts, etc etc etc
3. Proof of compliance with maintenance which will include requiring the owner provide invoices and receipts for the parts if the service wasn't performed by the dealership.
Optional:
4. some manufacturers will require additional data such as photographs of tire treads (I've personally had that required of me) or photos of power train items that are commonly modified such as intake system, exhaust and engine wiring harness
I always recommend sticking with an oil that is certified to whatever standard the manufacturer recommends. It avoids any potentially extremely stressful headaches and also tends to be no real world compromise
1. Dealership diagnostic information (dealership employees)
2. Regional representative impressions (regional techs that work for the manufacturer and check on high dollar repairs).
3. The manufacturer themselves.
Ideally you want all parties involved to agree the warranty claim should be approved. With any one of these entities in disagreement, you may experience a denial.
In engine claims the data that will almost always be requested is:
1. Diagnostic report from dealership.
2. ECU data dump which indicates to the manufacturer the operating conditions at the time of the failure as well as historical data that is of relevance (number of times over redline, last oil change reset, rpm, all temps from all sensors, knk data, checksums, fuel trims, egts, etc etc etc
3. Proof of compliance with maintenance which will include requiring the owner provide invoices and receipts for the parts if the service wasn't performed by the dealership.
Optional:
4. some manufacturers will require additional data such as photographs of tire treads (I've personally had that required of me) or photos of power train items that are commonly modified such as intake system, exhaust and engine wiring harness
I always recommend sticking with an oil that is certified to whatever standard the manufacturer recommends. It avoids any potentially extremely stressful headaches and also tends to be no real world compromise
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