CleanSump
Site Donor 2022
If it's not on the Bevo it doesn't exist.Well I can say I was talked out of using this in my E63S so there are some exceptions I suppose.
I'll use it my Cheeevie if it is less than Castrol on sale.
Last edited:
If it's not on the Bevo it doesn't exist.Well I can say I was talked out of using this in my E63S so there are some exceptions I suppose.
Yeah, this usually my approach as well...I’ll search around and usually I can find name brand stuff for actually less than ST, but not lately. And honestly I’m getting tired of searching, although it was fun to get in on those autozoe deals from a couple years ago (Mobil 1, Quaker State, Shell Gas Truck). But lately? I’ve seen basically nothing. And I do think Super Tech is fine, it usually tests out similar to the leading brands, but just a hair under. And I’m only running 5,000-6,000 mile intervals anyway.Warren Distribution makes (blends?) good stuff. I can usually scrounge big names (M1, RGT, Magnatec) cheaper if I try, but I’m not sure how much better they are than the linked ST HM full syn, those are some good boron, moly, & TBN numbers!
I would NEVER have a BMWI would NEVER use it in a BMW
In my younger days my oil and filters had to be high dollar or say performance. Anymore whatever is cheapest and works mainly napa brand. Just change it on time or early and you will be fineNot trying to start a forum war, but I've been wondering, if you're someone who changes oil frequently, does it make sense to use anything other than SuperTech synthetic? I've never used it before, what I've used previously is Mobil1 AFE, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge Titanium. My goal is to maximize engine reliability.
Is there really any difference using something like Castrol Edge vs SuperTech (both 5w30)? If both are D1G2, SN+, and GF-6 certified, and you do changes every 4,000 miles or so, what's the downside? I don't mind paying more if I'm getting my money's worth, but lately everything has been around double SuperTech's price. So if there's truly no benefit, I'd rather not throw away money.
Engine is an FA20DIT in a WRX. I take LSPI very seriously and I also know TGDI engines like to shear oil hence the frequent changes.
Well of course, it doesn't have any BMW or Mercedes approvals.I would NEVER use it in a BMW
Right, not on Mercedes Approved list, if it were I'd use it too. Amazon has some basic European 0w40 oils, but it's not on Mercedes approved list so wouldn't use it.Well I can say I was talked out of using this in my E63S so there are some exceptions I suppose.
Why not? It's just a car. And it's only money. Neither is the end of the world.I would NEVER have a BMW
Bet you never had an engine failure, either.I used to try to find name brand oil on sale, but I wound up with a shelf full of half-empty bottles of different name brand oil. I decided it was way too much effort to wait until the name brand oil that matches what is on your shelf goes on sale. Just buy supertech every time.
Not sure if I'd buy the cheapest filter, it's nice to have oil that's been cleaned well.In my younger days my oil and filters had to be high dollar or say performance. Anymore whatever is cheapest and works mainly napa brand. Just change it on time or early and you will be fine
Some of us do use ST (or Kirkland) in everything. I put ST/KS 5w30 in everything I own or service. It keeps life simple. I do, however, use OEM filters in most of the vehicles, except my son's Honda Accord which usually gets a Fram OCD or Supertech filter. I just used ST syn gear oil in the f/r diffs of my 14 Tundra. Works fine. I even used that same stuff in the transmission of my 17 H-D with great results.Not trying to start a forum war, but I've been wondering, if you're someone who changes oil frequently, does it make sense to use anything other than SuperTech synthetic? I've never used it before, what I've used previously is Mobil1 AFE, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge Titanium. My goal is to maximize engine reliability.
Is there really any difference using something like Castrol Edge vs SuperTech (both 5w30)? If both are D1G2, SN+, and GF-6 certified, and you do changes every 4,000 miles or so, what's the downside? I don't mind paying more if I'm getting my money's worth, but lately everything has been around double SuperTech's price. So if there's truly no benefit, I'd rather not throw away money.
Engine is an FA20DIT in a WRX. I take LSPI very seriously and I also know TGDI engines like to shear oil hence the frequent changes.
A UOA doesn't show you that the ring pack area is being kept clean for example. There are areas of performance that cannot be inferred from UOA results and require physical inspection.The more and more I read the more I consider ST oils. I've been using regular Mobil 1 FS for as long as I can remember in my vehicles and wifes car. My only issue is when I get to walmart and go to look at the ST oils, I'm immediately mentally guilt ripped (in my own mind) back over to the M1. Maybe one day I will get there but it will be hard for me to leave for sure. Just a comfort thing I guess.
Ps..for those of you who are claiming 4K OCIs max on ST oils, you are sadly mistaken. I have seen uoa on their oils and people are pushing their regular synthetics north of 10K miles with a little more add pack to spare. Impressive no matter who you are.
So I guess the real question is has anyone physically inspected the rings a ST engine?? ....sounds like some of us need to get to work. Kidding of course. Love your knowledge and responses here man!A UOA doesn't show you that the ring pack area is being kept clean for example. There are areas of performance that cannot be inferred from UOA results and require physical inspection.
I'm sure you've seen the Mobil slides I've posted where they compared their 0W-40 to other approved oils and even their own lower tier oils where the difference in deposit control and prevention are eye opening to say the least.So I guess the real question is has anyone physically inspected the rings a ST engine?? ....sounds like some of us need to get to work. Kidding of course. Love your knowledge and responses here man!
And with that being said about noack which you're not the only person who has mentioned this over the years, I think it's safe to say I'll keep ST in my lawn mower lol. Regardless, it's great oil in my view but I'll hold off on any of the sumps of my vehicles lol. Always wanted to "try" ST out of curiosity but years of XOM has a hold on me.
Edit... I will say however that with what I've heard people mention about noack I have yet to see my lawn mower use any oil or burn off the ST oil and in the summer months down south we the have some really high heat summers mowing. And I usually go 2 seasons mowing per change.
Great analogy brother. Point taken 100%. However my issue is I've looked in the search bar for a good 40ish min trying to find the post/thread you referenced about 0w40 comparison could you point me in the right direction lol. Thanks for intriguing my curiosity . I may have read it and I may not.I'm sure you've seen the Mobil slides I've posted where they compared their 0W-40 to other approved oils and even their own lower tier oils where the difference in deposit control and prevention are eye opening to say the least.
What it comes down to is whether you want "good enough" or better than that.
An SKS is "good enough" to harvest a deer, but it isn't a very good, or accurate gun. It's cheap, and does the job. A precision rifle at 50-100 yards will be more accurate than the SKS, but does it matter when the SKS is "good enough" and the precision rifle is arguably overkill? But what happens when the conditions change; what happens when you end up needing to make that 200+ yard shot and "minute of barn door" is no longer good enough?
With a rifle, the difference between a $250 gun and a $2,500 gun is pretty easy to determine at the range. With oils, that difference is far more difficult to see, requiring tear-downs and inspections, but that doesn't mean the difference isn't there.
The API approvals don't set the bar very high. GM's dexos spec bumps it up, but the ACEA protocols are more stringent still, then you add the Euro OEM approvals on top of those and you create a situation where the SKS/Amazon Basics might be "recommended for" but isn't approved That's why I like the layered Euro approvals, as I think that really sets the bar at a reasonable level for performance.
Sure, they are in this thread:Great analogy brother. Point taken 100%. However my issue is I've looked in the search bar for a good 40ish min trying to find the post/thread you referenced about 0w40 comparison could you point me in the right direction lol. Thanks for intriguing my curiosity . I may have read it and I may not.