Why not non-PEA fuel injector cleaners?
PEA cleaners were recommend for GDI engines so I used those.
NOTE: The entire process took about 5K miles to complete. There was A LOT of highway driving involved. My wife works 60 miles away one way and it's 60 miles of highway, 5 days a week, though she works from home as well so it's not so bad. That could have contributed to the fix as well. We took the car to other states too for fun, monitoring oil of course, and before the FIX step, it was burning oil. Sometimes redlining was incorporated as well, as well as driving on the highway at a lower gear to keep the RPMs high to possibly help break up carbon, but I did that maybe once or twice, the lower gear driving. Again, not scientific, just forum recommendations. Right now the car has 115K miles and from 108K miles up till now there was/is no oil consumption. Knock on wood, I hope that with maintenance, the addition of PEA based fuel injector cleaners (I recommend Techron Complete and Rislone Hy-per Fuel), good Quaker State "Full Synthetic" oil, and a little BG MOA 110, I will not have to deal with the oil burning creeping its way back. I plan to just change the oil at the next oil change and the filter and see what happens. It's possible that BG MOA 110 was the ultimate fix, all of the DIY steps combined contributed to the fix, or maybe it was the fourth step that fixed it, I cannot scientifically and decisively pin point the fix despite saying that step 4 was the FIX, but judging how B-12 and Kreen stopped making its way past the piston rings and remained in the cylinder chambers for a few days does offer a possible logical explanation that piston rings got free thus preventing the oil getting in the combustion chamber to be burned off. I'm just happy that it's fixed and the car no longer feels like a disappointment.
Also remember to do your own research before attempting DIY fixes. Good luck!
Here are the links to some of the RESEARCH I've bookmarked for reference:
Preventing and Addressing Oil-Burning Problems in a GDI Enginehttps://motoroilbasics.com/preventing-and-addressing-oil-burning-problems-in-a-gdi-engine.php
Keeping GDI and T/GDI Intake Systems Cleanhttps://motoroilbasics.com/keeping-gdi-and-tgdi-intake-valves-clean.php
Not your normal oil changehttps://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/not-your-normal-oil-change.738528/
Berryman's B12 chemtool /fuel system cleaner and piston soak precaution?https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...em-cleaner-and-piston-soak-precaution.340388/
Freeing up dirty, stuck oil control rings?https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/freeing-up-dirty-stuck-oil-control-rings.248195/page-2
Kreen recommended, why not Chemtool B12?https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/kreen-recommended-why-not-chemtool-b12.196163/page-2
Piston Soak - Now no compression
I do believe in pea cleaners but not every fill up .If Kreen is unavailable for post B-12 soak, then I would have to use MMO and NOT MOA, anything appropriate to lubricate the piston walls for cranking. I made a mistake here with abbreviations.
Also, in addition to the fourth step, add your favorite PEA based cleaner on every fill up.
If you're truly trying to be proactive - just use this. Change oil filter every 1000 miles while you run this. More information and verifiable results are available here. And if you still have questions or concerns, you can message @High Performance Lubricants directly and get an understandable human reply, instead of robotic lawyer language with other companies.Question: Will a fuel system cleaner, with PEA, have a meaningful impact on reducing the clogging up and sticking of oil control piston rings?
I have a 2011 GM 2.4 Ecotec with 142k miles in an Equinox that is known to be prone to excessive blow by, none yet, due to sticking rings. I want to be proactive to prevent mine from doing this but I've been thinking in terms of oil brand, additives, flushes etc. not a fuel treatment.
I have used Gumout All in One and a product from Redline with PEA occasionally but for the injector cleaning properties.
I've never exceeded the oil life monitor for changes and used mostly full synthetic oil, except when the dealer changed it. I've decided to ignore the OLM from now on and go with a 3,000 mile change but I'm thinking I should maybe start using something like Rislone oil treatment to help keep things clean. Maybe a fuel system treatment regularly if that would help.
I really can't afford to replace this car or pay for a major repair if I can avoid it.
I read enough of the thread to convince me so I just ordered 2 quarts. I'm going to do a LiquiMoly flush at my next oil change and follow that up with a quart of HPL Engine Cleaner in the fresh oil. I'll change the filter at one and two thousand miles as you suggest. It'll be interesting to see what if anything accumulates in the filter.If you're truly trying to be proactive - just use this. Change oil filter every 1000 miles while you run this. More information and verifiable results are available here. And if you still have questions or concerns, you can message @High Performance Lubricants directly and get an understandable human reply, instead of robotic lawyer language with other companies.
Reviving the thread from the dead... haha. I bought the car used and noticed that it burned oil at a rate that is not acceptable. It burned a qt of oil every 300 miles. That was not normal. I started doing research and found out that the Theta II GDI engines suffer from oil burning issues and the main reason from the research I've gathered was stuck piston rings, so I decided to do more research and then do the soak.Great write-up!
We have a 2014 Tuscon 4-Cyl 2.4L DI. It may have the same engine as yours and that's what attracted me to this thread. It doesn't burn any oil but I'm marking this thread for future reference.
Can you please summarize what the problem was (stuck rings?) what you think caused the problem (e.g. long oci?) and what resolved the issues and what's your overall recommendation moving forward and for new owners.
Have also seen that product around.I found this thread searching for why my wife's 2015 KIA Optima started burning 1 qt of oil every 2 weeks, running rough and a loss of power after turning a little over 100k miles. The mechanic's answer was a rebuild. I thought that was ridiculous for such low miles. I was prepared to do the soak suggested here, then I came across this VIDEO. I figured it was worth a shot trying the 505CRO flush. To my amazement it worked!
It has been 5 weeks since the flush and it has not used a drop of oil. The wife says it runs like new, no hesitation. She is happy with her car again. I hope this helps others looking for answers and a simple fix and it works for them.
I've reduced the STP Super Concentrated Fuel Injector Cleaner to the recommended usage frequency which is pretty much with every oil change before the oil change. Oil + MOA remains the same. I've recently done the 10K Seafoam SS14 valve cleaning maintenance.Hopefully your catalytic converter(s) survive the oil and chemical attack(s). Heck of a write up!