Mazda skyactiv specific oil filters

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i noticed that the OEM skyactiv original oil filters don't have a anti drain back valve, for what reason?
 

ZeeOSix

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"High flow" can only really mean a lower delta-p across the filter, meaning the flow resistance is lower.
 
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I say that because if Mazda "requires" use of a certain filter only, i.e., the "high flow" OF, then Mazda has to pay for it. That's part of the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. Guaranteed Mazda not paying for an oil filter for anyone.

Personally, count 'me' as skeptical about the "high flow" oil filter. 'To me' reads like something to get owners to buy the specific Mazda OEM oil filter only. My.02
It would also indicate an attempt to band-aid a design defect. Good luck with that, no one else has pulled it off.
 
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so I got the Beck Arnley filter in the mail from RA and immediately can see the black ADBV. Not a deal breaker for a cheap filter was hoping that it would be a clone of the Mazda filter.
A61BB0F5-E031-4DEC-9202-544B4492379D.jpeg
 
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so I got the Beck Arnley filter in the mail from RA and immediately can see the black ADBV. Not a deal breaker for a cheap filter was hoping that it would be a clone of the Mazda filter. View attachment 132748

Yep, a little flappy silicone ADBV that we don't need isn't going to impede flow at all... and great choice of filter, those Beck-Arnley are super underrated, one of the best out there all at a cheap price!
 
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I’ve got a 2014 mazda3 and it’s still going strong, the best filters I’ve found for the money were the OEM ones AND if you buy bulk you can ask the stealership for the mechanic discount. Roki filters are very well built.

Otherwise I stick to Fram ultras XG6607

As of recent for penny pinching I bought some Napa filters for my summer runs(3k miles OCI) and upon cutting them they performed great and would easily recommend them for 5K

EDIT: Pro select 27002 by Napa
 
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Skyactive high flow oilfilter
So, going back to this TSB back in the day when the turbo motor was new, the discussion I'm hearing is not about the ADBV but about the *filter bypass valve PSI*... Some of you guys may have heard about Subaru motors "requiring" a filter with a 27 psi bypass valve to make sure the oil keeps getting filtered under high pressure. Well, Mazda specs the turbo engine as requiring a 20.4 psi bypass rated filter. However, it has been shown that under the worst possible case scenario: An OCD grandma using a filter with a 8-11 psi bypass valve on a Subaru "requiring" a 27 psi rated filter, starting her car cold multiple times a day for only a mile of drive at time (to keep checking to see if her mail arrived). There was a photo of her engine at 90k miles and it looked brand new. Since she was OCD she did get her oil changed regularly, so there's that...

So, ultimately, even if the bypass valve is triggered and the oil is not filtering momentarily, well, once pressures come down then the filter starts catching stuff again, so it does get caught on the next pass, no biggie... so in the real world, it doesn't look like an issue to be concerned about. That said, I'm using the "oversize" Champion Labs made SuperTech MP7317 and Quaker State 5w-30 full synthetic every 5-5.5k on my Mazda 3 Turbo and she seems to be running well, with the oil not all that dark after that interval. I like with how the filter is 100% inverted that I can fill it to the very top with oil first, letting all the air bubbles out too, before screwing it in to help against dry start...

And yes, when I say "oversized" it is 20mm/0.75" longer than what is called for but still very clearly has plenty of clearance with the access panel cover. Going a bit longer also lowers pressure internally somewhat, so if the filter you are using has a <20.4 psi bypass valve it will help with the bypass being triggered less often. Honestly, I have no idea why Mazda calls for such a short filter when those 20mm longer still easily clears. Could it actually be better for oil pressure, with a fully inverted filter, for it to be smaller or with the pump pressure it shouldn't matter right?

One last thing on the bypass valve psi, it's not known for sure if every filter maker pretty much uses the same spring psi for all their sizes, or certain ones having stronger based on car maker requirements. But it also seems to be based on how sturdy the actual can construction is: filters with a thicker/stronger can, can handle higher pressures...

Anyway, my $.02 to think about...
 
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The same thing on a Hyundai Veloster turbo site I visit, everyone there is brainwashed the OEM hyundai filter is the ONLY filter to use, yet years ago Hyundai posted the filters filtering specs on their site and they were horrible. And warranty in the USA is not an issue as my wife's 2013 Elantra GT had a Fram Ultra on it and they tried to skate from the warranty and I said no you are not. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says I have the legal right to run the Ultra, so you can't skate from the warranty for a new long block. After that not a single word said and the new long block was installed.
 
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ZeeOSix

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One last thing on the bypass valve psi, it's not known for sure if every filter maker pretty much uses the same spring psi for all their sizes, or certain ones having stronger based on car maker requirements. But it also seems to be based on how sturdy the actual can construction is: filters with a thicker/stronger can, can handle higher pressures...
Some aftermarket filter makers do have a specific filter for Subaru applications that spec a higher filter bypass setting.

The oil pressure inside the filter doesn't effect the bypass valve or its setting. The oil viscosity and flow rate causes a delta-p across the media, which is what the bypass valve operates on. It doesn't care what the actual pressure inside the can is. You could have 100 PSI of pressure inside the can, but if the oil flow rate is low then there won't be much delta-p across the filter and bypass valve.
 
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