Mazda skyactiv specific oil filters
- Thread starter KCHOPS
- Start date
It doesn't need one. The filter mounts vertically and oil doesn't drain UP.
I use the Fram 7317 oversize filter.
My 2¢
This was discussed earlier. It doesn’t have end caps either. It does the job despite all that.
Oil in the galleries above the filter can still drain down if there's no ADBV.
It would also indicate an attempt to band-aid a design defect. Good luck with that, no one else has pulled it off.
so I got the Beck Arnley filter in the mail from RA and immediately can see the black ADBV. Not a deal breaker for a cheap filter was hoping that it would be a clone of the Mazda filter.
Yep, a little flappy silicone ADBV that we don't need isn't going to impede flow at all... and great choice of filter, those Beck-Arnley are super underrated, one of the best out there all at a cheap price!
I’ve got a 2014 mazda3 and it’s still going strong, the best filters I’ve found for the money were the OEM ones AND if you buy bulk you can ask the stealership for the mechanic discount. Roki filters are very well built.
Otherwise I stick to Fram ultras XG6607
As of recent for penny pinching I bought some Napa filters for my summer runs(3k miles OCI) and upon cutting them they performed great and would easily recommend them for 5K
EDIT: Pro select 27002 by Napa
Otherwise I stick to Fram ultras XG6607
As of recent for penny pinching I bought some Napa filters for my summer runs(3k miles OCI) and upon cutting them they performed great and would easily recommend them for 5K
EDIT: Pro select 27002 by Napa
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So, going back to this TSB back in the day when the turbo motor was new, the discussion I'm hearing is not about the ADBV but about the *filter bypass valve PSI*... Some of you guys may have heard about Subaru motors "requiring" a filter with a 27 psi bypass valve to make sure the oil keeps getting filtered under high pressure. Well, Mazda specs the turbo engine as requiring a 20.4 psi bypass rated filter. However, it has been shown that under the worst possible case scenario: An OCD grandma using a filter with a 8-11 psi bypass valve on a Subaru "requiring" a 27 psi rated filter, starting her car cold multiple times a day for only a mile of drive at time (to keep checking to see if her mail arrived). There was a photo of her engine at 90k miles and it looked brand new. Since she was OCD she did get her oil changed regularly, so there's that...
So, ultimately, even if the bypass valve is triggered and the oil is not filtering momentarily, well, once pressures come down then the filter starts catching stuff again, so it does get caught on the next pass, no biggie... so in the real world, it doesn't look like an issue to be concerned about. That said, I'm using the "oversize" Champion Labs made SuperTech MP7317 and Quaker State 5w-30 full synthetic every 5-5.5k on my Mazda 3 Turbo and she seems to be running well, with the oil not all that dark after that interval. I like with how the filter is 100% inverted that I can fill it to the very top with oil first, letting all the air bubbles out too, before screwing it in to help against dry start...
And yes, when I say "oversized" it is 20mm/0.75" longer than what is called for but still very clearly has plenty of clearance with the access panel cover. Going a bit longer also lowers pressure internally somewhat, so if the filter you are using has a
One last thing on the bypass valve psi, it's not known for sure if every filter maker pretty much uses the same spring psi for all their sizes, or certain ones having stronger based on car maker requirements. But it also seems to be based on how sturdy the actual can construction is: filters with a thicker/stronger can, can handle higher pressures...
Anyway, my $.02 to think about...
The same thing on a Hyundai Veloster turbo site I visit, everyone there is brainwashed the OEM hyundai filter is the ONLY filter to use, yet years ago Hyundai posted the filters filtering specs on their site and they were horrible. And warranty in the USA is not an issue as my wife's 2013 Elantra GT had a Fram Ultra on it and they tried to skate from the warranty and I said no you are not. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says I have the legal right to run the Ultra, so you can't skate from the warranty for a new long block. After that not a single word said and the new long block was installed.
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Some aftermarket filter makers do have a specific filter for Subaru applications that spec a higher filter bypass setting.
The oil pressure inside the filter doesn't effect the bypass valve or its setting. The oil viscosity and flow rate causes a delta-p across the media, which is what the bypass valve operates on. It doesn't care what the actual pressure inside the can is. You could have 100 PSI of pressure inside the can, but if the oil flow rate is low then there won't be much delta-p across the filter and bypass valve.
Interesting discussion on another forum. Cause and effect for one individual.
forum.miata.net
Oil change resulted in significant idle speed drop - MX-5 Miata Forum
Oil change resulted in significant idle speed drop ND Maintenance
forum.miata.net
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Easy to switch filters again and see if problem comes back, or offer the used filter that caused issues to someone else for a test run. So, purely anecdotal as some would say here.Interesting discussion on another forum. Cause and effect for one individual.
Oil change resulted in significant idle speed drop - MX-5 Miata Forum
Oil change resulted in significant idle speed drop ND Maintenance
I'd wager the thread starter was a troll. I find that many use "Has anyone else experienced...?" similar questions 100's of times with new threads and then simply disappear after creating a thread debate and ad revenue for the forum. AI bots at work.
The real question one should ask is if the oil pump or oil system has its own check valve somewhere. If it doesn't, then you can debate about the ADBV all you want. Give it a remote filter mount, use a PH8a or equivalent, and argue the 8psi bypass and nitrile ADBV. Should get verbally violent in no time.
I am glad I never jumped on the Mazda/Subaru/Hyundai/.... must use their filter or else scare fear tactics bandwagon. All my engines run aftermarket filters, cross referenced oversized options when available, and some ran remotely mounted filters, some had canister conversions from cartridges too, some gained 15psi from balance shaft removal.
Even when a bypass event is triggered, there is still flow thru the media. Its not like the media is instantly shut off and too many think that.
If I have a make-believe 10 gpm filter and my pump sends a make believe 11 gpm thru it, then only 1 gpm is bypassed. If the filter media loads up and drops to 6 gpm flow, then the other 5 gpm bypasses. That flow will keep the media contents from washing out by the bypass flow. So, I am no supporter of the front mounted bypass valves either.
Browser or google translator should help you see a bypass experiment. Your filter is in bypass more often than not and a few extra bypass PSI isn't going to save you. With the amount of VVT screens with crud/sludge, I guess someone at some automakers thinks that a higher bypass will prevent VVT errors until after the warranty expires, especially with foolish automaker OLM and oil change intervals. Its a stupid statistically warranty game every day at your automaker.
Эксперимент читателя ABW.BY: масляный фильтр работает всего 2500 километров?
Чем лучше масляный фильтр будет очищать моторное масло от грязи, тем дольше прослужит двигатель, однако в конструкции фильтра предусмотрен перепускной клапан, после открытия которого в мотор поступает грязное масло, - экспериментально устанавливаем, когд
abw.by
In general I agree with you… Specifically the Skyactiv is unique. So…. You think the guy is a troll?Easy to switch filters again and see if problem comes back, or offer the used filter that caused issues to someone else for a test run. So, purely anecdotal as some would say here.
I'd wager the thread starter was a troll. I find that many use "Has anyone else experienced...?" similar questions 100's of times with new threads and then simply disappear after creating a thread debate and ad revenue for the forum. AI bots at work.
The real question one should ask is if the oil pump or oil system has its own check valve somewhere. If it doesn't, then you can debate about the ADBV all you want. Give it a remote filter mount, use a PH8a or equivalent, and argue the 8psi bypass and nitrile ADBV. Should get verbally violent in no time.
I am glad I never jumped on the Mazda/Subaru/Hyundai/.... must use their filter or else scare fear tactics bandwagon. All my engines run aftermarket filters, cross referenced oversized options when available, and some ran remotely mounted filters, some had canister conversions from cartridges too, some gained 15psi from balance shaft removal.
Even when a bypass event is triggered, there is still flow thru the media. Its not like the media is instantly shut off and too many think that.
If I have a make-believe 10 gpm filter and my pump sends a make believe 11 gpm thru it, then only 1 gpm is bypassed. If the filter media loads up and drops to 6 gpm flow, then the other 5 gpm bypasses. That flow will keep the media contents from washing out by the bypass flow. So, I am no supporter of the front mounted bypass valves either.
Browser or google translator should help you see a bypass experiment. Your filter is in bypass more often than not and a few extra bypass PSI isn't going to save you. With the amount of VVT screens with crud/sludge, I guess someone at some automakers thinks that a higher bypass will prevent VVT errors until after the warranty expires, especially with foolish automaker OLM and oil change intervals. Its a stupid statistically warranty game every day at your automaker.
Эксперимент читателя ABW.BY: масляный фильтр работает всего 2500 километров?
Чем лучше масляный фильтр будет очищать моторное масло от грязи, тем дольше прослужит двигатель, однако в конструкции фильтра предусмотрен перепускной клапан, после открытия которого в мотор поступает грязное масло, - экспериментально устанавливаем, когд
That thread is all over the place, lol. If the engine was idling at 1500 RPM after warming up then something is wrong with the idle control system, or something else beside the oil & filter is causing it. Then he did an oil change and the idle went down to 750 RPM when warm and that's what it should be. So he's thinking the oil filter caused the idle to go from what it shouldn't be to what it should be ... what a mess of confusion going on in that thread.Interesting discussion on another forum. Cause and effect for one individual.
Oil change resulted in significant idle speed drop - MX-5 Miata Forum
Oil change resulted in significant idle speed drop ND Maintenance
I have used Fram and Mobil 1 (older Champ Labs) on 2.5T Skyactiv engines, and there have been no issues with idle quality.
That guy may not be a troll, but he very quickly dismissed the idea of a vacuum leak due to oil cap not being closed or seated properly. I can’t see any reason at all why it would be the oil filter.
The crankcase and intake vacuum are two different things. You have the oil change and filter change as variables with the filter being aftermarket.
The oil and filter isn't going to effect the intake or crankcase vacuum/pressure level.
