Actually, locally, the package that includes my favored filter, the M110A, is a bit less with the EP
Decision Time, Would like some input from the forum
- Thread starter Speedy3861
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Deleted member 89374
It's always annoying when the company sales representative knows less about the products his own company sells than the customer interested in said product.
Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 is made with about 70% PAO, while AFE is 20% PAO and GTL. So if AFE is similar to PUP, then EP is well above it.
Aparently they updated the SDS again, last year it changed to say 60-70% GTL but now it's another formula with 10-20% GTL and 30-40% PAO and 30-40% hydrotreated crude
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Deleted member 89374
So, this SDS is for AFE 0W-20?
It's the one that comes up on their website for it, I believe outside the United States they drop the AFE designation.
Still overthinking this, hard habit to break. Going to Advance to get oil. There's a $15 rebate from Mobil on the AP. Have been a long-term user of the AFE. Given as they're both 0W-20, both rated API ILSAC GF-6A, what's the real-world difference? I'm presuming that the base stocks are probably somewhat different, as the AFE is advertised as an enhancer to improved mpg, and the AP advertised as better for extended drain intervals. Given I'm changing at 5k intervals, will there be any noticeable difference in mpg? None of the many Hondas I've owned have ever needed any oil added between changes. I'm leaning towards the AP due to the rebate if there's no downside.
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Deleted member 89374
The Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 is made with about 70% PAO base stock, with the rest being Visom 4. As a consequence, it's using very little VII. In our Sonata, the EP 0W-20 stays clean for thousands of miles, at least on the dipstick. It's very good oil, well worth the extra few dollars. On the flip side, the Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 is just like any other 0W-20 oil. If you want to nibble on your fingernails, try to decide between Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30. The 0W-30 AFE is so good that Mobil 1 didn't have a reason to create an EP version of it.
Thank you, for warranty reasons, will stick with 0W-20, going to give the EP a try.
I ran M1 0w-30 in my Miatas instead of the specified 5W-30, totally eliminated start-up valve chatter, so I'm a believer, but Honda's pretty clear about what they reccomend and as I have an extended warranty, I'll use the 0W-20. Again, thanks for the insight.
I ran M1 0w-30 in my Miatas instead of the specified 5W-30, totally eliminated start-up valve chatter, so I'm a believer, but Honda's pretty clear about what they reccomend and as I have an extended warranty, I'll use the 0W-20. Again, thanks for the insight.
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Deleted member 89374
Actually, many don't understand that all manufacturers recommend using API-certified motor oil in the appropriate service category. So you could use M1 AFE 0W-30 without issue.
Now, if you're concerned, they absolutely use M1 EP 0W-20 in a small turbo engine, as the PAO base will stand up to heat much better than the GTL + Group III mix found in the M1 AFE 0W-20. The AFE 0W-30 is made with the holy trinity of base oils: PAO+GTL+Group III.
These were Mitsubishi evo 9 spec best plugs platinum iridium from 45k to 115k. 2 steps colder than stock 2011. 2012 hyundai went one step colder. I run mostly 5w-40 and 93 octane fuel.
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Just picked up 5 quarts of the EP & a M110A for $38. Looked at 0W30 but they still had old stock that wasn't API and not AFE. Lots of old-stock 0W-20 AFE in quarts, guy said they sell mostly jugs. So with the rebate I'm at $23 for the change.
On another note, amazing how uninformed most dealers are about GF-6A, especially those selling small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines.
Thanks for the information on the differences between AFE & EP, I'm more confident in my choice.
On another note, amazing how uninformed most dealers are about GF-6A, especially those selling small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines.
Thanks for the information on the differences between AFE & EP, I'm more confident in my choice.
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Deleted member 89374
When we had the Sonata Turbo 2.0, I changed the spark plugs (always used OEM) every 25K miles. I'm not saying it is a good example to follow, as I did it out of fear. Back then, I read too many reports of blown engines, some of them due to bad spark plugs.
What brand 5W-40 are you using?
Seeing as how I don't seem to have edit privileges, yet, I'll update this way. The oil I purchased yesterday went into my wife's 2020 CRV EX-L 1.5t. It was manufactured last August, set on the lot until December when my wife picked it up. Anyway, it's not gotten a lot of use, some around town, short trips and a few hour or two highway forays, it's essentially a grocery- getter. She'd accumulated about 2400 mi and the oil looked dark and smelled skanky, so as it's coming up on a year, had it changed. My CRV should be due later this summer, planning on picking up another deal with rebate while the getting is good.
Thanks, good to know, appreciate the information
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Deleted member 89374
I decided to go with Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 for my next oil change in the Sonata. It's got an MB229.71 approval, and it claims ACEA C5. Funny enough, if you had a 2021 Toyota Supra 2.0T, this would be the only approved oil (ACEA C5) that you can buy at your local Walmart. The Mobil 1 equivalent of this is Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 (it's like $60+tax for 6 quarts). Since the Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 costs about the same as the Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, I think it's well worth it. More than likely, it handles soot and fuel dilution better than the M1.
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Couldn't resist...
Mobil 1: This motor oil is like a bœx of chocolatéts... They're always fidgeting with the formulation, so you never know what you're getting, but somehow it works out... except for NOACK... that one can be all over the place... don't ask me how I know
Castrol: You're 100% guaranteed to always, without fail, get a full synthetic motor oil made from Group III and Group III+ basestock. Sometimes... sometimes they'll sprinkle some PAO in there when they don't have any other option, but 100% of the time you will get Group III/III+ motor oil. Castrol don't mess around and are proud of it!
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Interesting comparison, a box of chocolates. I have hope that with the new ILSAC GF-6A compliance standards that the formulation of the M1 EP would stabilize. And live up to it's promise as a premium product.
I did notice today, after the change to EP from whatever Honda installed at the factory, the engine at idle was noticeably quieter. I'll run it for at least 2k under "grocery getter" conditions combined with as much highway as can be squeezed in, imagine that would qualify as "severe" usage, try a UOA and see how it does.
I did notice today, after the change to EP from whatever Honda installed at the factory, the engine at idle was noticeably quieter. I'll run it for at least 2k under "grocery getter" conditions combined with as much highway as can be squeezed in, imagine that would qualify as "severe" usage, try a UOA and see how it does.
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Deleted member 89374
Castrol is really eating into their PIE. The new Castrol EDGE EP lineup has more approvals than M1 EP. Basically, it does the same job as oils from Mobil 1 that cost twice as much. Did you know that it was Castrol who pushed them to make EP a 20,000-mile motor oil? It's hilarious.
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I've used both Mobil and Pennzoil without issues for many many years. I happen to like pennzoil better as it seemingly runs quieter smoother in my Mazdas. I would not be opposed or worried about using any of moden synthetics regardless of manufacturer though.
Been using Mobil1 for 30+ years, the last UOA on 0W-20 AFE was the first one that disappointed. Of course, all the previous use was on Civics with NA engines until the 16. My 19 Civic Coupe had 27k when I traded it on the CRV, so the CRV UOA was the first at about 12k. I can change to the Castro Edge EP 0W-20 and the package price at my local Advance, 5 quarts and a filter is the same as the Mobil1 0W-20 EP. Only real difference is the Castrol comes with either a Carquest or K&N instead of the M110A. I've switched my wife's CRV to the M1 0W20 EP at 2500 miles, considering the cost is the same, will there be any real benefit to switching my CRV to the Castrol at its next change at 15k? I would imagine the K&N oil filters are decent. I have no real brand loyalty to Mobile, but comparing the two EP's from both companies at the same price, is it worth making the switch? The 1.5t in the CRV is a bit higher output (190 vs 174?) Than the Civic and is a heavier vehicle, seems to be a bit harder on oils.
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