If the vehicles make it to 150K, then I would not count it as a screw-up.
Decision Time, Would like some input from the forum
- Thread starter Speedy3861
- Start date
Yea, and I am guessing K knew that.
Re: piston ring sealing, isn’t it just possible that a higher viscosity oil would promote better sealing regardless even if both are SP-rated? My 2.4 DI Honda is a diluter too, but adds less sump volume using 5w-30 than 0w-20.
And no, I don’t have UOAs to prove it (which would be trashed here anyway because driving conditions could be different, etc), but hypothetically isn’t it possible?
And no, I don’t have UOAs to prove it (which would be trashed here anyway because driving conditions could be different, etc), but hypothetically isn’t it possible?
I have yet to master that skill, have the UOA stored as a pdf, no idea how to post it.
Hopefully this works
Apparently it didn't, difficult to do on a Samsung Tablet....I'll give you the summation:
"This is a respectable first report to start off this CRV'S oil analysis file. Wear metals are a touch higher than average overall, but they're well within the range we consider normal. Note that averages reflect -5,200 miles of oil use. Internal parts seem to be getting along just fine and the physical tests don't look too bad either. We'll keep fuel on our mind as trends get rolling, but 1.3% isn't cautionary, even if the fuel thinned the viscosity a touch below 0W/20 spec. The oil was adequately filtered based on low insolubles. Looks good so far, just check back on fuel."
This sample was taken at 12,303 miles on the car, 4,103 miles on the oil
SUS viscosity @210f 44.5 (46-57 value)
CSt Viscosity @100c 5.56 (6.0-9.7 value)
Hopefully this helps in place of the whole report. My inclination is to run it another 4k (currently running the same oil & filter, changed @ 12,303) and do another UOA,
If numbers improve, either stick with the 0W20 AFE or try 0W20 AP, the filtration seems satisfactory. I think the engine is still breaking in, so taking that into consideration.
Additional note: This engine was changed from the Honda break in oil/filter to the newer Mobil1 0W-20 AFE ILSAC GF-6A/M110A filter at around 4,000 miles.
Apparently it didn't, difficult to do on a Samsung Tablet....I'll give you the summation:
"This is a respectable first report to start off this CRV'S oil analysis file. Wear metals are a touch higher than average overall, but they're well within the range we consider normal. Note that averages reflect -5,200 miles of oil use. Internal parts seem to be getting along just fine and the physical tests don't look too bad either. We'll keep fuel on our mind as trends get rolling, but 1.3% isn't cautionary, even if the fuel thinned the viscosity a touch below 0W/20 spec. The oil was adequately filtered based on low insolubles. Looks good so far, just check back on fuel."
This sample was taken at 12,303 miles on the car, 4,103 miles on the oil
SUS viscosity @210f 44.5 (46-57 value)
CSt Viscosity @100c 5.56 (6.0-9.7 value)
Hopefully this helps in place of the whole report. My inclination is to run it another 4k (currently running the same oil & filter, changed @ 12,303) and do another UOA,
If numbers improve, either stick with the 0W20 AFE or try 0W20 AP, the filtration seems satisfactory. I think the engine is still breaking in, so taking that into consideration.
Additional note: This engine was changed from the Honda break in oil/filter to the newer Mobil1 0W-20 AFE ILSAC GF-6A/M110A filter at around 4,000 miles.
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D
Deleted member 89374
I don't know if one to two CST at operating temperature could possibly make any difference. If outside of the normal temperature range, then sure.
You'd have to upload it either to an off-site place or upload it as an attachment on the site. You could also take a screenshot of it and post it as a pic.
I hope you are ok. I think a lot of these people have short trips and don't get the vehicle hot enough in the winter.
I've also read some people's HVAC units end of smelling of gas and the only way to rectify it is replacement of the control unit.
I had both a 2016 Civic EX-L Coupe and a 2019 Civic Touring Coupe and both had excellent heaters, heated up quickly. The 2021 is the same car, 2022 seems the same mechanically. The CRV is a "tweaked" version of that engine, with a shutter system radiator and a MUCH larger cabin to heat.Probably the new Hondas are designed/assembled with USSR-era automotive heating tech.
D
Deleted member 89374
Couldn't Honda install a larger heater core, maybe?
Possibly, but that would require even more coolant for a small engine to heat, and because it's a low friction engine it is somewhat cool running to begin with. Haven't visited any Accord forums, but I imagine the 1.5t powered Accords have some heater issues, cabin is larger than the civic. I think the Accord also has a radiator shutter system.
There's a difference between "harmed" and added some wear.
Use the "Attach files" button in lower LH corner of the posting window.
Have decided to take a conservative approach to this, the M110A filters have always tested in the UOA'S as effective, so going to stay with them. Have had a long successful run for many years with Mobil1 0W-20 AFE so going to run this change to about 4k & do another UOA, after 15k, the wear metals should start to lessen and OD isn't that bad. The viscosity drop concerns me, so if it is still marginal after the next UOA, I'll probably try Mobil1 0W-20 EP which is supposed to have a more "robust" additive package. As I have a Hondacare 120/7yrs extended warranty, I'll stay with 0W-20 as per the manual. I'll try to update after the next UOA. Appreciate everyone's input and experience.
UOA "% insolubles" don't tell how good the filter was ... you need a separate particle count test. I compared % insolubles to PC data on many Blackstone UOAs where both were done, and there's no correlation at all.
Good choice.
I would shorten the OCI's to 3k miles with a 20k mile OFCI, via a fluid extractor. Harbor Freight has one that works for ~ $80.
Trying to make an informed decision here, so here's the question: Mobil1 0W-20 AFE vs Mobil1 0W-20 EP, what's the real difference? AFE is advertised as enhancing mpg, AP is sold as a 15k interval oil. They're both Mobil1, both 0W-20, priced very close. Is there a difference in the base stock formulation? The tech guy at Mobil was very vague, describing the EP as a more "robust" oil so I'm presuming it has a better additive package or higher TBN. Hard to get real facts to make a valid comparison, compared data sheets, not able to discover much difference. Considering a change from AFE to EP remaining with a 4-5k change interval, is there enough difference that will be noticeable?
No, both those oils will be under utilized with that short OCI, so flip a coin or go with easiest to get and/or cheapest between the two.
This.
You’re far overthinking it at this point.
You're probably right, I tend to do that, but after 25 years in Biomedical Engineering the tendency is hard to lose.
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