HPL PPMCO vs. Valvoline Restore and Protect?

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This is undoubtedly a strange question, but here goes. My Ford C-Max Energi is coming up on eleven months and 10K miles with Mobil1 0w-20 EP. That includes 3200 miles of highway driving and another 600 miles of short trips in winter where heat was needed. The latter trips were either 18 miles or < 7 miles with the latter being qualified as severe duty. The owner's manual calls for a 20K or two year OCI, but the oil really has only 4K ICE miles on it.

Valvoline Restore and Protect is intriguing, but there is only one UOA posted to date. The marketing claims are that it cleans pistons but I have no reason to believe or not believe that my engine is in need of cleaning.

Moving on to the HPL PPMCO, the cost is obviously much higher. What is intriguing about this oil is its cold temperature properties. The ICE on a PHEV can start without warning in very cold weather. It is unlikely that my vehicle will ever need to start below zero degrees F, but occasionally I do take a winter road trip that can push that down towards minus 20.

So to wrap up the questions, I am thinking about changing the oil before winter and letting the ICE run for < 7 miles at times when I need heat. Any and all opinions will be considered. Thanks in advance.
 
Mobil 1 is a good choice so I see no real reason to switch.

Valvoline R&P is obviously new but all indications currently show that it does work at cleaning, there is people posting images all over the forum with results in very short intervals.


If you need that extra cleaning ability go with Valvoline R&P otherwise I would stick to Mobil 1 as HPL really makes no sense for your situation.
 
If you need that extra cleaning ability go with Valvoline R&P otherwise I would stick to Mobil 1 as HPL really makes no sense for your situation.
So why does HPL make no sense? It appears to have some excellent cold starting properties. Turning that question around, where does HPL make sense?
 
This post tells me that you really want the HPL, so just go ahead and scratch that itch.
No - I want an objective discussion of the merits of the various choices. I can see how my comments may have lead you to that conclusion. 45 years ago I was starting my car at minus ten degrees (sometimes minus 20) with straight SAE 30 dino oil. Just imagine how much better that experience would have been with today's synthetic oils.
 
So why does HPL make no sense? It appears to have some excellent cold starting properties. Turning that question around, where does HPL make sense?
So it is pretty simple, cars have been starting in much colder temperatures then what you would experience in your home state that you list on your profile using just regular off the shelf oil with the proper grade listed for their climate such as in Canada, North Dakota, Minnesota, etc. Ford, Toyota, GM, etc all test vehicles in extreme cold temperatures in controlled facilities not using HPL.

Where HPL would make sense is if you were doing heavy frequent towing or racing but you drive an economy car so that wouldn't be the case for you.

Now if someone can bring me the evidence that for example Mobil 1 cannot handle -20F weather and only HPL can then I will change my stance in regards to cold weather.

Don't get me wrong this isn't hate or anything towards HPL it is good oil especially for those heavy duty/performance applications but other brands do good as well for regular daily drivers.
 
HPL oils are for those that want the upmost in protection for longer. sure you can run their oil for normal intervals if you like spending money but the main goal is to extend oil change intervals. i’m an HPL user and many others are as well. there are countless UOA’s to support the idea that extending oil change intervals with their products is possible short of any mechanical issues/fuel dilution.
 
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No - I want an objective discussion of the merits of the various choices. I can see how my comments may have lead you to that conclusion. 45 years ago I was starting my car at minus ten degrees (sometimes minus 20) with straight SAE 30 dino oil. Just imagine how much better that experience would have been with today's synthetic oils.
The issue with these threads, and I mean this constructively, is that we can't give a conclusive answer as to which oil is "best" for your application. Realistically, both oils will work perfectly well and you'll most likely never know the difference. Choose the branding/price point/perceived quality that appeals to you the most and run with confidence.
 
In the event the OP happens to have varnish, I thought this question might have value to ask. I know sludge is easy for a cleaner to clean, but that varnish is very difficult if not impossible to clean. Would HPL EC30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect be a better choice to clean varnish? Or would both be ineffective against varnish?
 
I am going to be the unpopular opinion here, at 62k if you have changed the oil consistently the engine doesn't need cleaning. 150k? maybe. any 5w or 0w will be fine since you do not appear to be ice road trucking.
 
A lot of people will tell you there is no reason to put additives in your oil and in some cases that's true, usually because your more expensive oils already have them. I use Valvoline oil in my '09 RAM and have ever since I started doing my own oil changes 4 years ago. (Actually it's NAPA oil which is from Valvoline) I live in a cold climate up north so I add 10 oz. of MSo2 every oil change (brand name Liquid Moly). Molybdenum is a lubricant that bonds with the metal and is used widely in heavy industrial high heat and high pressure machinery. I trust it in my vehicle, If I had RED LINE or Amsoil near me readily available I might just switch to one of those since I know they both have it in their mix. I don't know what restore and protect has in it but it wouldn't surprise me if it had Moly and or/ Boron in it. In any case if you're under warranty, stick with recommended oil or at least verify with the dealer you won't void it. Otherwise stay with the M1, it's good stuff and you can always go to a parts store or Amazon and order the liquid Moly MSo2 if you'd like.
 
I live in a cold climate up north so I add 10 oz. of MSo2 every oil change (brand name Liquid Moly). Molybdenum is a lubricant that bonds with the metal and is used widely in heavy industrial high heat and high pressure machinery. I trust it in my vehicle, If I had RED LINE or Amsoil near me readily available I might just switch to one of those since I know they both have it in their mix. I don't know what restore and protect has in it but it wouldn't surprise me if it had Moly and or/ Boron in it. In any case if you're under warranty, stick with recommended oil or at least verify with the dealer you won't void it. Otherwise stay with the M1, it's good stuff and you can always go to a parts store or Amazon and order the liquid Moly MSo2 if you'd like.
Neither of those oils contain MoS2. Simply put if they contain moly it is not MoS2 moly. There are better suited forms of moly blended into oils. It has been discussed here a number of times.
 
I misprinted that , thankyou for the correction it's MoS2 and while they may not have that exact additive my point was that they DO have certain additives to help with protection. Royal Purple has Synerlec which is their proprietary additive combination that bonds with the metal as does MoS2 which there are a few oils that do have it. I used it when I used to race motorcycles and there was a noticable jump in RPMs at idle after adding it. I'll continue to use it.
 
This is undoubtedly a strange question, but here goes. My Ford C-Max Energi is coming up on eleven months and 10K miles with Mobil1 0w-20 EP. That includes 3200 miles of highway driving and another 600 miles of short trips in winter where heat was needed. The latter trips were either 18 miles or < 7 miles with the latter being qualified as severe duty. The owner's manual calls for a 20K or two year OCI, but the oil really has only 4K ICE miles on it.

Valvoline Restore and Protect is intriguing, but there is only one UOA posted to date. The marketing claims are that it cleans pistons but I have no reason to believe or not believe that my engine is in need of cleaning.

Moving on to the HPL PPMCO, the cost is obviously much higher. What is intriguing about this oil is its cold temperature properties. The ICE on a PHEV can start without warning in very cold weather. It is unlikely that my vehicle will ever need to start below zero degrees F, but occasionally I do take a winter road trip that can push that down towards minus 20.

So to wrap up the questions, I am thinking about changing the oil before winter and letting the ICE run for < 7 miles at times when I need heat. Any and all opinions will be considered. Thanks in advance.
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What exactly is the HPL PPMCO? I am currently using their Premium Passenger Car Engine Oil.
 
Because it seems like Mobil 1 has been doing the job so far. What are you looking to achieve with HPL?

Dont forget, HPL is the forum sponsor. Its going to get praise no matter what.
Sponsor or not. Praise goes to people, businesses etc that earn it. I just dabble in my oil changes and have tried many things from many recommendations for cleaning etc. over the years. Some worked some didn't and I passed that on the same way.

The results I saw in my own vehicles from HPL EC30 led me to want to try more. The others users who had a lot of interaction and response from HPL and their service is phenomenal. I reached out to Dave with some geared to my use/concerns and he responded very quickly. One member even posted that he was told by them NOT to use their oil as it would be waste of their money for what they were looking for from it.

Old friend (RIP) was BMW mechanic. He told me to try some BG Synchro Shift II in my Corolla MT tranny. 3 shops said I needed a rebuild after many fluid changes. BG fixed my issue and drove another 100k with perfect shifts until it got totaled. Same scenario for their BG 44k vs Techron for me. I also had some BG concerns when Toyota used something I didn't ask for. BG tech support confirmed my concerns and sent email with details. Toyota dealer did 3 more tranny D&F after that. I respect and will use BG products.

I praised many doctors I had experience with and said stay away from others. Those doctors earned their respective reputations.

The VRP seems to be a really good alternative so far to help many get and stay clean for no extra money vs other quality oils. When my stash of other stuff runs out I will probably try and then cut filters to see my own experience.

Mobil 1 is great as well as others. When you have vehicles that have been on steady diets of M1/PP, no extended changes and you always cut filters before with nothing noted. Then you switch to VRP or HPL and find lots of junk in the filters or noticeably reduced oil usage and less start up noise etc. then maybe you will be open for other options. Maybe even praise those products and companies.
 
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