2004 and up Sienna or Odyssey

[hypervish]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: FL-400S
Did the 2003 3.0L Sienna suffer from sludge? or was that only the earlier non-vvti version?


Nope, the so called "problem" was fixed in 01/02 (mid-year). They made the oil passages bigger. The earlier years were also vvti.


I don't think the 1MZ-FE engine had VVT-i before 2001. This Wikipedia article may be wrong though:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MZ_engine#1MZ-FE


They do, my 2000 RX300 has VVT-I and it's got the 1MZ-FE motor.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: FL-400S
Did the 2003 3.0L Sienna suffer from sludge? or was that only the earlier non-vvti version?


Nope, the so called "problem" was fixed in 01/02 (mid-year). They made the oil passages bigger. The earlier years were also vvti.


I don't think the 1MZ-FE engine had VVT-i before 2001. This Wikipedia article may be wrong though:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MZ_engine#1MZ-FE


They do, my 2000 RX300 has VVT-I and it's got the 1MZ-FE motor.


Okay, I meant in the Sienna. Prior to 2001, the Sienna did not have VVT-i.

 

[hypervish]

Oh, I misunderstood then, I stand corrected. The Sienna doesn't have VVT-I from 98-00.

 

[FL-400S]

How hard is it to pull the valve covers on one of these 98-03 Sienna's? Is that something I would do when I look the van over, or drive to a mechanic to have him look? Seller might get nervous if I start taking it apart. LOL Looking at the reviews they seem to be very good vans if they don't have sludge. IF it doesnt already I'm not too worried about keeping it that way. Some problems with the power doors but as long as it still opens and closes it wouldn't bother me.

 

[hypervish]

Originally Posted By: FL-400S
How hard is it to pull the valve covers on one of these 98-03 Sienna's? Is that something I would do when I look the van over, or drive to a mechanic to have him look? Seller might get nervous if I start taking it apart. LOL Looking at the reviews they seem to be very good vans if they don't have sludge. IF it doesnt already I'm not too worried about keeping it that way. Some problems with the power doors but as long as it still opens and closes it wouldn't bother me.


It is quite easy to remove the valve cover. Remove the plastic engine cover (i believe it's 3 or 4 bolts) , and a few bolts on the valve cover and your done (easily accessible too). Honestly, sludge isn't a big concern, if the owner did oil changes on time, and if they didn't then it makes me wonder what other maintenance items they still haven't done.

The first thing you should do after buying (if you decide to) is to change the PCV valve, whether it has sludge or doesn't, it's a good maintenance item to replace.

The door lock "problems" are caused from the door lock actuators, which is the little motor turning the lock from lock to unlock when it receives a signal to do so whether it's from the remote, or interior buttons. The door lock actuators go bad depending on how much you use them.

 

[mcshooter]

my friends daughter 4 runner use oil every 400-500- miles and he took off the front valve cover and it had no sludge , but he did not check the rear .. took it to the dealer and they said it was not a sludge engine but would do nothing about the excessive oil use. if i remember right the rear head was the sludge one.

 

[FL-400S]

Originally Posted By: mcshooter
my friends daughter 4 runner use oil every 400-500- miles and he took off the front valve cover and it had no sludge , but he did not check the rear .. took it to the dealer and they said it was not a sludge engine but would do nothing about the excessive oil use. if i remember right the rear head was the sludge one.


4runner would have a longitudinal engine, not transverse like an FWD sienna. so there would be no "back" valve cover, but right and left. Either way I know the 3.4L and 4.7L aren't sludge engines, and I think the old 3.0L was bulletproof too. Before that was the 22RE which was as good an engine as any. I'm pretty sure 4runners and trucks never had sludge.

 

[FL-400S]

If a 1998 Sienna had the timing belt changed, would that give clues to sludge? Methinks no.

Any ideas of the timeframe / cost to have the belt changed? I had a 1997 Tercel that was due every 60k, but a 2003 Tundra is every 90k.

 

[hypervish]

Timing Belt is done at the 90k service, but at that time the belts aren't even broken in...You can go safely 120k, without losing sleep, there's been people going up to 180k and then some. But, it's not worth losing your sleep over that.

 

[FL-400S]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Timing Belt is done at the 90k service, but at that time the belts aren't even broken in...You can go safely 120k, without losing sleep, there's been people going up to 180k and then some. But, it's not worth losing your sleep over that.


Is it a non-interference engine?

NM seems it is interference. Otherwise, drive it till it drops!

 

[hypervish]

It's an interference engine, which is why some people stopped at 180k...lol. I believe there was one person who made it to 21x miles before he finally gave up, and installed a new one. And the old timing belt wasn't that bad, it could have been used for atleast another 50k.... But, you know what they say better safe than sorry.

 

[FL-400S]

http://www.oilgelsettlement.com/

Anyone know if this covers the 2003 models?

 

[FL-400S]

Originally Posted By: FL-400S
http://www.oilgelsettlement.com/

Anyone know if this covers the 2003 models?


From what I've been reading it only covers to 2002. Any of those would probably be out of the extended warranty time frame anyway (8 years and 120 days).

Well I think I might be getting a 2003 sienna with under 60k miles that was well maintained at a Toyota dealer. I'll be looking for smoke out the exhaust, CEL, and looking at the dipstick. It seems these are great vans if you don't have sludge problems. I'm sure as long as there's little or no sludge when I buy it I can keep it that way.

 

[chuckerants]

I have a 2005 Ody with 60,000 miles. I have the EX.

Since this was the first MY, I bought the extended warranty (online at a steep discount vs at place of purchase). Though I have had no serious issues, I am glad I bought the warranty. It may have had something to do with the MV being the first remodel, but the warranty has paid for itself.

The issues I have had are:

-brakes
-windshield area wind noise
-rear cargo area carpet lifting up
-*seat belt connection cause airbag light to come on
-*one of the accessory pulleys causing screeching noise

I think that's it. The last two issues were covered under the extended warranty.

I have the dealer change the trans fluid whenever the MM reminds to do so at ~30,000 miles. I also change the oil ~6,000 miles (which is about when the MM shows 15%).

I use Motorcraft Syn Blend 5w20 during winter and 5w30 during summer.

Overall, I can't imagine being any more pleased with the Ody and I'm glad for the purchase. With three toddlers ages 5, 5, and 3, this is the perfect vehicle now and for a long time.

As someone else mentioned though, the Ody does seem to attract a lot of door dings (for me that is).