Yep. You’re not trying to clean anything with the oil.The only resolution to the rattle is to replace the cam gear. It is not a difficult job.
The only resolution to the rattle is to replace the cam gear. It is not a difficult job.
A Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician Shares information on when you should fix your engine cold start rattle and more important things that are often missed when this repair is done.
I have 2010 Camry w 4 cylinder. Presently I have no VVTI noise. Thinking about using the Valvoline R&P as preventive measure, mainly for oil control ring cleaning, but VVTI gear cleaning as well. Friend with 2009 Venza just had his gear replaced. If I had known about R&P I would have suggested he try it as you suggest. He did bring me the old VVTI gear and I could not see any varnish buildup, though I did not take the gear apart to see the insides. So maybe I am imagining something that is not a problem. Still, my OCD nature wants to head off problems if possible.Interesting, my last and late wife had a 2010 Rav4 with the same engine and no issues with startup rattle running M1 and M1 EP up to 11.5K miles. Sold it with 120K and no issues with startup rattle.
To the OP: The worst that can happen is that you try it and nothing changes. It's not that much more than regular Valvoline. Not like M1 Advanced back in the day that cost twice as much per jug.
Watch the video above, it will show you the sliding pin that is the issue with the rattle, I'm guessing that just not having the factory mirror polish any longer will start the problem of the pin sticking.I have 2010 Camry w 4 cylinder. Presently I have no VVTI noise. Thinking about using the Valvoline R&P as preventive measure, mainly for oil control ring cleaning, but VVTI gear cleaning as well. Friend with 2009 Venza just had his gear replaced. If I had known about R&P I would have suggested he try it as you suggest. He did bring me the old VVTI gear and I could not see any varnish buildup, though I did not take the gear apart to see the insides. So maybe I am imagining something that is not a problem. Still, my OCD nature wants to head off problems if possible.
I would guess you keep it serviced.232K miles on my 07 Toyota 1GRFE gasoline 4.0 V6 and never any rattle.
I think so, but many here don'tI would guess you keep it serviced.
I think so, but many here don't
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-4-0l-1gr-fe-w-224k-m1-w-6900-miles.366732/
Neither does my Toyota sienna and it has just broke 400,000 mi. We love marketing. Say it ain't so that oil manufacturers would put outlandish claims on their bottles. My personal favorite is a 20,000 mi oil change.What rattle? I have two Toyotas, one with VVTI and the other with Dual VVTI. Neither one rattles.
20,000 miles is very achievable with the right oil and if an engine is easy on the oil and the car is driven on long highway trips all the time. Someone doing 1000 miles a week for instance. If you’re doing that much driving do you really want to be doing oil changes every 3 weeks or every 20 weeks? I know my answer.Neither does my Toyota sienna and it has just broke 400,000 mi. We love marketing. Say it ain't so that oil manufacturers would put outlandish claims on their bottles. My personal favorite is a 20,000 mi oil change.
To be fair, if people used the OEM specified oil and reduced their intervals to 30-50% of the recommendation, oil-related issues would probably drop to nil.Neither does my Toyota sienna and it has just broke 400,000 mi. We love marketing. Say it ain't so that oil manufacturers would put outlandish claims on their bottles. My personal favorite is a 20,000 mi oil change.
Maybe 20 years ago when this site first started, but extended intervals have become very challenging with the latest crop of engines.20,000 miles is very achievable with the right oil and if an engine is easy on the oil and the car is driven on long highway trips all the time.
I still think there are a lot of engines out there that are easy on oil. The 2.0 in my Civic for example (which is still in the newest Civics). And even a direct injected engine can be easy on the oil if it’s driven gently and doesn’t get short tripped. (My Corvette has DI and in my driving it doesn’t suffer from fuel dilution)To be fair, if people used the OEM specified oil and reduced their intervals to 30-50% of the recommendation, oil-related issues would probably drop to nil.
Maybe 20 years ago when this site first started, but extended intervals have become very challenging with the latest crop of engines.
You are quite the specimenNeither does my Toyota sienna and it has just broke 400,000 mi. We love marketing. Say it ain't so that oil manufacturers would put outlandish claims on their bottles. My personal favorite is a 20,000 mi oil change.
I’ve had both. The V6 does not appear to have the same startup VVT actuator lock pin rattle as the 2.4. I don’t hear it in the 2.5 anymore so it could be resolved. I have a Chrysler 3.2 V6 and it does it bad. Every start warm or cold. I hate that noise.232K miles on my 07 Toyota 1GRFE gasoline 4.0 V6 and never any rattle. V6 does not have the startup lock pin issue like the 2.4.
What year is your Sienna?Neither does my Toyota sienna and it has just broke 400,000 mi. We love marketing. Say it ain't so that oil manufacturers would put outlandish claims on their bottles. My personal favorite is a 20,000 mi oil change.