Want to try HPL after 4 OCIs of Valvoline Restore and Protect

Does the Berrymans leak past the piston rings into the crankcase of does it stay in the cylinder for the duration of the soak?

Yes, it leaks past the rings and pistons. I ended up with a whole can in the case, I added another can of BG EPR to the case and ran it for 20 after it was up to temp at 1800 RPM and up to 3000 RPM at times. I could hear the solvents boiling in the engine at idle and shut down! Drained it and installed VR&P and ran for 3000 miles on the first change and had a mid run filter change at 1500 miles. The first two filters were loaded with carbon and crud. The filer at 3000 miles was almost clean and free of carbon.

Keep in mind doing a piston soak on the V6 is quite a bit tougher. It takes 8 oz min. of product per cylinder to flood the piston at BDC, also takes time to roll over the crank and suck the product out. At times the crank gets stuck rolling it over with a ratchet as the carbon interferes with piston to head clearance as it drains to the low side of the bore due to the angle of the V. You then need to blow that carbon out so the crank can roll over again. Its quite a bit more time consuming to do the piston soak on a V6 or V8 compared to an inline engine all things considered. All total I used 3-4 cans of Berryman's, but only one full can was drained into the engine past the pistons. The other cans were sucked out of the bores, full of carbon debris and discarded.

Berryman's will vaporize and boil off once the oil is up to temp, it doesn't and won't stay in the crankcase for any period of time.
 
I'd like to see an example of oil consumption on-par with the OPs sorted with just using XYZ oil.
I never said completely sorted nor have I seen anyone say that. Perhaps there is an acceptable level of usage that OP is ok with that these oils can help him achieve. I’m well aware of Hyundai/kia engines having a drinking problem too, that can’t be fixed with oils, flushes, soaks, etc.
 
I never said completely sorted nor have I seen anyone say that. Perhaps there is an acceptable level of usage that OP is ok with that these oils can help him achieve. I’m well aware of Hyundai/kia engines having a drinking problem too, that can’t be fixed with oils, flushes, soaks, etc.
You said "Seems to work for some on here." - I want to see any example(S) of any one here that has shown improvement just using one of the oils mentioned.
 
This post explains the difference between PCMO, Premium, and Premium Plus:

PCMO=group III/OCP
PCMO premium=group III/star
PCMO premium plus=PAO/star

However, all their oils clean equally well.

 
I sat through that whole video and was really impressed with the piston soaks. Definitely implement that with the Berrymans if you have not. As for oil, like others mentioned -- you already ran 4 OCIs of VRP. Trying to help you save some money and just got with the cheapest full synthetic you can get. But, I also suggest going up a grade.
 
You said "Seems to work for some on here." - I want to see any example(S) of any one here that has shown improvement just using one of the oils mentioned.
In the VRP mega-thread, post #1274.
 
In the VRP mega-thread, post #1274.
Ok ill have a look.
 
Wow, did not expect this thread to reach 3 pages already. I love the expertise and knowledge on display.

I appreciate everyone's input and encouragement. Nice to have people to turn to about this stuff. In light of this discussion, I'll hold off on using HPL, because I agree with everyone who mentioned that it's a waste to use it in an oil burner as bad as mine.
 
OP,

Did the 4 OCI's of R&P improve your consumption at all?
Well, short answer is, no.

But it never worsened from before using it but I can't say definitively that it helped, sadly. But that doesn't mean all other claims of those who have tried and experience a reduction in oil consumption are false/invalid.

If anything, it has much more to do with my vehicle's engine design than a PCV valve or heavier grade oil is going to fix.

Seriously, side tangent, I want to know who these people are that apparently fix 500miles/1qt of oil consumption simply by replacing a PCV Valve or going to a heavier grade. I've posted about both my vehicles on here a lot, and I don't expect everyone to know every detail of every bit of maintenance that I do. Obviously. But just being on this forum, with having two oil burners, shouldn't I get the benefit of doubt? It should be assumed I did those things. And of course I did those things among many other, and to no one's surprise (at least not mine) none of it helped. None of it hurt anything, same with the VRP, but nothing was fixed or reduced, not even a bit, unfortunately.

Anyway, sorry about that, I just had to vent. In every other respect, the VRP seems to be a very good product in my experience alone. But broadening the scope of other people's experience with it, I'd recommend it to anyone; it's as good of an oil as any of the "top shelf" products like M1 EP in stores today. I love it and will continue to use it.

$5 rebate on a jug through next July makes it astonishingly affordable when bought at Walmart, compared to AZ, at least in my area, it's almost a $10 difference.
 
I say try the HPL once. This way you aren't out a lot of money. It is more expensive than VRP but as a one time experiment, it shouldn't break the bank (though, it isn't my place to talk about your finances as it's not my business). But of course, as said above, if you have to keep adding oil, use whatever you want at that point. Once my stash of other stuff is done AND I am out of warranty, I'll move to something like HPL or Amsoil SS.
 
I say try the HPL once. This way you aren't out a lot of money. It is more expensive than VRP but as a one time experiment, it shouldn't break the bank (though, it isn't my place to talk about your finances as it's not my business). But of course, as said above, if you have to keep adding oil, use whatever you want at that point. Once my stash of other stuff is done AND I am out of warranty, I'll move to something like HPL or Amsoil SS.
One use of HPL isn't fixing this.
 
If I had a car that was burning a quart of oil every week and VRP didn’t fix it I would just grab a bunch of Kirkland synthetic every time it goes on sale and just use that for topping up but I would not bother doing any more full oil changes. I would just change the oil filter every 10k.

(Although in reality I would probably get tired of topping up the oil so much and would get rid of the car. It’s not worth the headache)
Kendall Nitro 70
 
@hemioiler

Thanks for this... Although probably complete overkill for most cars, I wonder what the No VII and SuperCar oil land.

PCMO=group III/OCP
PCMO premium=group III/star
PCMO premium plus=PAO/star
No VII = ???????
SuperCar = ???????
 
In the VRP mega-thread, post #1274.
in that case it was R&P plus HPL ECE. Hard to form a conclusion that you should buy valvoline from that.
 
With your driving style and the mileage you put on, I'd be using SuperTech. The only way HPL or Amsoil pays for itself is with looong drain intervals (with analysis).
SuperTech HMFS oil is the only oil I use @5,000 mile OCI.

I used to use a series of expensive oils when I was younger, including Amsoil, Red Line, etc.
There was no long term benefit whatsoever, and I don't even own those vehicles anymore.
Just a lot of money wasted with no benefit in my case.
 
Last edited:
Didn't want to hijack anyone's thread about trying HPL or any of the ongoing discussions about HPL and Restore and Protect.



I'm almost half way through my 4th OCI with Valvoline's Restore and Protect. Im getting impatient waiting for a response from HPL so I thought I'd ask y'all since there's no shortage of members here that have used their products.

My question is, what's the best one I can get for my vehicle? To be clear, if I was wanting to try say, Amsoil for the first time, I personally would like to try the famous Signature Series (and I did) instead of their OE or next highest offering. I'm unfamiliar with HPLs products, so what their best of the best for passenger vehicles?

The car I drive is in my signature, and for those on mobile, a little trick to see signatures, hold your phone in landscape mode, and they should show up. It works for me when I do it.

A little more detail:

It's a 2019 Kia Sportage AWD (2.4L GDI) bought used with 98k in June. It's sits now with 120k, I've done four oil changes (5k OCIs) with the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30. Driving is a mix of "city" and highway, I commute 80 miles a day 5 days a week highway, and my wife puts about 40-60 miles suburban driving on it each night she works. In total the car averages 1000 miles a week more or less so I've been changing it almost every 5 weeks.

I plan to take the HPL to 7500 miles since anything more seems ill advised with these vehicles (Hyundai and Kias with Theta II) and anything less feels wasteful. However, due to my budget, and persistent oil consumption, I only plan on buying 2 gallons, that's a fill and three quarts of top off oil, which depending on the rate of consumption I experience, will last me until another change, or it won't and I'll have to buy something else (definitely topping off with VRP if it comes to it).
Please share with us your outcome with Valvoline Restore & Protect. Did it do cleaning and reduce your oil burning? If so, by how much?
 
Back
Top