Want to try HPL after 4 OCIs of Valvoline Restore and Protect

After the $5 rebate (offer through next july), the 29.99 VRP is only like $5 more over SupedTech at the WMs in my area
ST syn is ~$18, was at WM yesterday. I mean, we are splitting hairs here...it's hardly worth the discussion for anything under $10 difference here.
 
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The videos people "fixing" cars with the mechanic in a bottle make for good YouTube content, but I bet for every 500 people who attempt, only one is successful. You're likely in that 499.

Look at your opportunity cost.

You're burning 1 quart per week based on your mileage.

Right now, you're burning $6 a week in VRP.
With HPL you'd burn $11/week.
With random Kirkland / Supertech: $3.40 a week.

Start throwing engine flushes in there, fuel system additives, then the time invested in this for no outcomes, it's not looking like this is a good use of money. Like was mentioned above, a borescope to inspect for cylinder wall damage or valve damage is the best investment before burning your money. I just looked on the Kia forums. These dudes are throwing everything imaginable at the engine in the hopes of fixing oil leaks.

If trying all these soaks, flushes, gasket replacements and such like is suggested on the Kia / Hyundai forums results on a lot of down time for you, that's a cost to figure too. Then there's the risks. Guys will clean a throttle body valve because they think they need to, end up damaging it, and having to pay a few hundred to replace a part that was working fine. Bolts break, spark plugs break, repairs get done incorrectly, things fall into the cylinder unnoticed, mistakes happen. Now you don't only have an oil burner car, you have an oil burner car with a little piece of ceramic that fell into the cylinder and thrashed your engine.
 
If this were my car: I would try a proper engine flush product (Liquimoly). I would try the VRP (you have been doing that) - I'd go up a grade. If that didn't work, I'd do the piston soak. If that didn't work, I'd drive it with low-cost ST oil ($19/5 qt for the syn yesterday and accept the consumption - this is a Kia. I would not run HPL in this car, it's $$$.
 
i too really wanted to run HPL in the 05’ accord as i do in the 03’ and my silverado but it has a drinking problem. it now gets topped off with whatever is on hand, HDEO, M1 0w-40 etc. anything in the XW-40 range. with how much makeup it takes ( 0.5 quarts/1000 miles) i plan on doing actual oil changes at 12k miles intervals.
 
If I had a car that was burning a quart of oil every week and VRP didn’t fix it I would just grab a bunch of Kirkland synthetic every time it goes on sale and just use that for topping up but I would not bother doing any more full oil changes. I would just change the oil filter every 10k.

(Although in reality I would probably get tired of topping up the oil so much and would get rid of the car. It’s not worth the headache)
 
Have you tried replacing the PCV? I believe those are a time change. My buddy Hyundai 4 cylinder consumed a lot of oil. He replaced the valve and the consumption got much less.
 
If after a run or two of HPL it still has a drinking problem then best to run it out like patman and tigeo said, supertech, Kirkland, etc. I love HPL, however, I wouldn’t use it in a drinker that couldn’t be fixed.
 
If you haven't done the piston soak, you need to. Yes you can use Gumout Multisystem Tune Up if you'd like, Berryman's is cheaper and has proven results on here but your money. Then I would run QS Allmileage, Castrol gtx high mileage, Pennzoil High Mileage or Havoline HM in 5w30, 10w30 or 10w40 and see if the consumption stops. Or even Valvoline white bottle and see if conventional burns less. HPL is not going to help if the piston soak and R&P had no effect. More than likely you have a mechanical issue and I'd run the thickest oil that slowed consumption.
 
  1. B12 Piston soak, for a couple days if you can.
  2. Fresh SuperTech oil. Run it for a week. Add a can of BG EPR 109 engine flush. Follow the directions. Drain the oil.
  3. Fresh SuperTech oil. Run it for another week to "rinse" any junk or leftovers from the BG EPR 109 flush.
  4. Do an OCI using VRP and a quart of HPL's EC30 engine cleaner.
  5. Switch to HPL.
At this point your engine will have either stopped burning oil or it didn't. If you burn through HPL I'd probably go back to VRP so save some money.
 
I would try the B12 piston soak, as well as B12 oil flush (can find directions from their website and some google searching).

I've gone through a few gallons of and been happy with the HPL regular PCMO 5w40. HTHS 4.3cP
 
I was just going to post the same thing. Berryman's B12 piston soak will certainly unstick the rings if thats the reason for the consumption problem. Then go back to using VR&P to polish it off. Did the trick to our Audi Q7 too!

Went from using a quart in 400 miles to using no oil in 3000 miles. I just did the second change of VR&P yesterday, this run will be for 5000 miles but the oil consumption sure did quit, and I figured it was the Berrymans that did the heavy lifting and unstuck the rings.
Does the Berrymans leak past the piston rings into the crankcase of does it stay in the cylinder for the duration of the soak?
 
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Did you pull the valve cover to see how the top end looked as an indicator of maintenance or sludge or build up of crud?
 
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