Want to try HPL after 4 OCIs of Valvoline Restore and Protect

[MrBaumTastic]

Please share with us your outcome with Valvoline Restore & Protect. Did it do cleaning and reduce your oil burning? If so, by how much?

Unfortunately, it did not noticeably reduce my oil consumption. From the first change to now more than halfway through my 4th, it fluctuates from 1qt/500 miles to 1qt in about 1000 miles or so.

It does seem to consume more right after a change, then compared to how it consumes oil after about halfway through the OCI. And I'm only doing 5k OCIs too, and my driving, other than sheer volume, is not severe at all.

And I wish circumstances were different were I could do a before and after underneath the valve cover but there wouldn't be anything conclusive if I pulled it now after almost 4 changes with it, without knowing what it looked like before. Though I do want to pull the valve cover if/when I need to get in there someday, out of curiosity my (that Valvoline 500k mile synthetic vs conventional test fascinated me). I've also used flushes that could effect the objective analysis of VRPs cleaning abilities.

With all that said though, whether you just want a good product or you want to do some testing to post on YT or BITOG, I say go for it. I have no regrets, I really like it. I intend to stick with it after thoughtful consideration of alternatives.

 

[hemioiler]

@hemioiler

Thanks for this... Although probably complete overkill for most cars, I wonder what the No VII and SuperCar oil land.

PCMO=group III/OCP
PCMO premium=group III/star
PCMO premium plus=PAO/star
No VII = ???????
SuperCar = ???????

I believe SuperCar = Premium Plus, except SC uses the Euro adpack whereas PP uses the API.

No VII I'm not certain about.

 

[Jetronic]

I doubt there's much to clean after 4 oci with R&P and 5k oci before that. So using HPL to try and clean the ringpack further is futile, IMO. But oil consumption could be a function of too much evaporation, so switching to lower Noack oils could help and the HPL oils will definitely help with preventing renewed deposits.

No VII would be mostly PAO but will contain some group V to prevent the PAO from shrinking seals (similar to Premium Plus). But will use heavier base oil to reach the same hot oil viscosity as Premium Plus. I expect the lowest Noack and highest flash/fire point in that category of oils. Winter grade determines the base oil viscosity, lower winter grade, lower base oil viscosity.

 

[OVERKILL]

@hemioiler

Thanks for this... Although probably complete overkill for most cars, I wonder what the No VII and SuperCar oil land.

PCMO=group III/OCP
PCMO premium=group III/star
PCMO premium plus=PAO/star
No VII = ???????
SuperCar = ???????

They all contain AN/Ester, plus the main base oil is my understanding, so it would be:
P = Group III/AN/Ester/OCP
PP = Group III/AN/Ester/Star
PPP = PAO/AN/Ester/Star
No VII = PAO/AN/Ester
Super Car = PAO/AN/Ester/Star w/Euro add packs

 

[THORROMIG]

At this point, bottle of Rislone Engine Cleaner with Supertech/Kirkland/Amazon oil every other oil change. Its just the roll of loaded dice of -- if and when buying a Hyundai/Kia when oil consumption starts or worst case/it grenades.

 

[Glenda W.]

Rent or borrow a borescope and check for scored cylinder walls. Otherwise you may be just chasing the dragon.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Rislone 'Engine Treatment' seems to benefit my wife's engine clatter more-so than it's engine cleaning abilities.
I even used a 16oz bottle when switching the Kia 2.0 over to HPL No VII / Performance Plus frankenblend.

If folks here can confirm VRP removes sludge as well as it does carbon over time, I would do a trial basis on it (kids vehicles). If it did match both 'tit-for-tat', then why doesn't Valvoline mention it in their product features? Member Buster has mentioned numerous times that removing sludge is a different animal than removing carbon deposits.

If Valvoline put strong doses of both sludge and carbon killers in their add-pack, would it-not negatively affect wear protection abilities? There's only so many effective cleaning chemicals that can be put inside that 32 ounce bottle, before it loses some ability in maintaining good wear protection.

 

[OVERKILL]

Rent or borrow a borescope and check for scored cylinder walls. Otherwise you may be just chasing the dragon.

Yup, if there's mechanical damage no amount of cleaning, and no gathering of Wizards is going to remedy it.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Will a HD diesel oil help clean like Chevron Delo 400 XSP? 5W-40 at $9/gallon at Advance Auto Parts. At that price you could keep it topped off for less than ST or Kirkland. You could substitute 1 qt of EC30 or some Rislone every change just because and still be cheaper.

 

[SimpleSyrup]

Rislone 'Engine Treatment' seems to benefit my wife's engine clatter more-so than it's engine cleaning abilities.
I even used a 16oz bottle when switching the Kia 2.0 over to HPL No VII / Performance Plus frankenblend.

If folks here can confirm VRP removes sludge as well as it does carbon over time, I would do a trial basis on it (kids vehicles). If it did match both 'tit-for-tat', then why doesn't Valvoline mention it in their product features? Member Buster has mentioned numerous times that removing sludge is a different animal than removing carbon deposits.

If Valvoline put strong doses of both sludge and carbon killers in their add-pack, would it-not negatively affect wear protection abilities? There's only so many effective cleaning chemicals that can be put inside that 32 ounce bottle, before it loses some ability in maintaining good wear protection.

No clue about sludge, but VRP doesn't do much for varnish on the engine. I have an older Honda with the K24 that had some oil burning issues. It's high mileage (almost 180k) and has a golden veneer on the internals and cam shaft that VRP did not remove. It seemed to have a beneficial effect on oil consumption though, reducing the amount burned from 1 quart per 1000 miles to 1 quart per 1500-1700 miles, and that's where it's remained. The issue is almost nobody worried about oil consumption is doing anything even remotely rational or scientific to see what "worked." They, like me, clean off an entire Pep Boys shelf of potions, additives, and crap and dump it all into the engine over a short period of time making it almost impossible to really say what helped.

 

[Glenda W.]

The issue is almost nobody worried about oil consumption is doing anything even remotely rational or scientific to see what "worked." They, like me, clean off an entire Pep Boys shelf of potions, additives, and crap and dump it all into the engine over a short period of time making it almost impossible to really say what helped.

This

So many have given up after one oci or introduced other “cleaners”. No way to tell what did what.

 

[Mainia]

I myself would say no on HPL, BUT I always like to throw a Hail Mary into the mix. I would do HPL one time. You did the 4 VRP so so fast it was nice to see the results this quickly, even though the outcome is not what you wanted to see.

Since it is winter here in Minnesota, I chose to do a run of VRP 5w-30 in my Kona. So far it is the cleanest running oil I have had in my car as far a getting black the least. I have 800 miles left for my 3,000 to 3,250 dumb window. Since it is cleaner I will go to 3,500 miles. And I know oil blackness doesn't mean bad, but it the cleanest running oil I have run, that I can remember. I will be running it one more time since it will be in my winter window. My engine is completely clean inside and my rings are not jammed anymore where I was getting up to 1.5qts of added fuel in winter, before I un-jammed my rings with Redline Performance Euro 5w-30. I am still up in the air on what I will be running for summer oil, I may stay with Motul 8100/Clean Gen 2 and HPL EC in a every other oil change senario.

 

[Dave1027]

If anything, it has much more to do with my vehicle's engine design than a PCV valve or heavier grade oil is going to fix.

Seriously, side tangent, I want to know who these people are that apparently fix 500miles/1qt of oil consumption simply by replacing a PCV Valve or going to a heavier grade. I've posted about both my vehicles on here a lot, and I don't expect everyone to know every detail of every bit of maintenance that I do. Obviously. But just being on this forum, with having two oil burners, shouldn't I get the benefit of doubt? It should be assumed I did those things. And of course I did those things among many other, and to no one's surprise (at least not mine) none of it helped. None of it hurt anything, same with the VRP, but nothing was fixed or reduced, not even a bit, unfortunately.

As for the PCV valve, I think it depends on the design. My car has an elaborate PCV system and is the cause of oil consumption for many who own them. I have even heard or owners who continued to have PCV/consumption issues even after system replacement. Maybe you might try implementing a "catch can" as a test?

 

[TiGeo]

As for the PCV valve, I think it depends on the design. My car has an elaborate PCV system and is the cause of oil consumption for many who own them. I have even heard or owners who continued to have PCV/consumption issues even after system replacement. Maybe you might try implementing a "catch can" as a test?

It will depend on IF the route the oil is taking to be consumed/burned is through the path that a catch can would be installed. For example, my VW oil can be consumed via the PCV valve itselt allowing oil separated by the AOS to be consumed through a path via the block so a CC won't do a thing.

 

[Dave1027]

I was thinking try a catch can as a test, not to fix the consumption issue but to help identify the root cause of it.

 

[Patrick0525]

They all contain AN/Ester, plus the main base oil is my understanding, so it would be:
P = Group III/AN/Ester/OCP
PP = Group III/AN/Ester/Star
PPP = PAO/AN/Ester/Star
No VII = PAO/AN/Ester
Super Car = PAO/AN/Ester/Star w/Euro add packs

I use HPL Euro VII 5w-30 and Premium plus 0w-20, where do they do fit in ur chart?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I use HPL Euro VII 5w-30 and Premium plus 0w-20, where do they do fit in ur chart?

There isn't a Euro listing for Premium Plus at their oil sales website.
The 'other' PPP is already entered in Overkill's quoted reply

 

[apollo18]

Why not try a high mileage oil? Incase it’s some type of seal that’s bad

 

[Patrick0525]

There isn't a Euro listing for Premium Plus at their oil sales website.
The 'other' PPP is already entered in Overkill's quoted reply

Thanks

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

I would stay with VRP, switch to 5w30 if you haven’t already. I would also try a Berrymans piston soak. If that doesn’t work, well, it’s a Kia with over 100k. That’s to be expected.

Either get rid of it or start trying various heavier oils and see how long you can tolerate a failing engine.