Want to try HPL after 4 OCIs of Valvoline Restore and Protect

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Aurora, IL
Didn't want to hijack anyone's thread about trying HPL or any of the ongoing discussions about HPL and Restore and Protect.



I'm almost half way through my 4th OCI with Valvoline's Restore and Protect. Im getting impatient waiting for a response from HPL so I thought I'd ask y'all since there's no shortage of members here that have used their products.

My question is, what's the best one I can get for my vehicle? To be clear, if I was wanting to try say, Amsoil for the first time, I personally would like to try the famous Signature Series (and I did) instead of their OE or next highest offering. I'm unfamiliar with HPLs products, so what their best of the best for passenger vehicles?

The car I drive is in my signature, and for those on mobile, a little trick to see signatures, hold your phone in landscape mode, and they should show up. It works for me when I do it.

A little more detail:

It's a 2019 Kia Sportage AWD (2.4L GDI) bought used with 98k in June. It's sits now with 120k, I've done four oil changes (5k OCIs) with the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30. Driving is a mix of "city" and highway, I commute 80 miles a day 5 days a week highway, and my wife puts about 40-60 miles suburban driving on it each night she works. In total the car averages 1000 miles a week more or less so I've been changing it almost every 5 weeks.

I plan to take the HPL to 7500 miles since anything more seems ill advised with these vehicles (Hyundai and Kias with Theta II) and anything less feels wasteful. However, due to my budget, and persistent oil consumption, I only plan on buying 2 gallons, that's a fill and three quarts of top off oil, which depending on the rate of consumption I experience, will last me until another change, or it won't and I'll have to buy something else (definitely topping off with VRP if it comes to it).
 
People here know much more than I. With that being said, I would recommend the Premium. I doubt you need Premium Plus.

 
I'd get the regular PCMO. It's better for longer drains than R&P. Only problem is if HPL doesn't slow your oil consumption down, it will be expensive to top off with their oils. At that point grab Mobil 1 or Castrol EDGE.
My thoughts exactly. That's why I'm getting just the 2 gallons. If the Kia burns right through them I'll go back to VRP.
 
People here know much more than I. With that being said, I would recommend the Premium. I doubt you need Premium Plus.

Wish they would go into more detail about whats the real difference between Premium and Premium Plus, given the price I'd opt for the latter but maybe I'm just a sucker.
 
My read on this question is that HPL is for those who want to go long distances between oil changes. (fully acknowledging that it is great stuff all round.

In your case, your car, your engine, is not really well set up for long OCI's. Further, you already have gone through multiple R & P changes, presumably chasing down a sludge issue.

Further, you have also indicated some budget pressure, or at least a desire not to have too much oil inventory. (apologies if I have read too much into your comment)

I suggest that you use a high-quality, but mainstream oil (Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, yada yada) in the appropriate spec/weight, and change at 5,000 miles. To me, that just makes more sense for this situation. Best wishes.
 
My read on this question is that HPL is for those who want to go long distances between oil changes. (fully acknowledging that it is great stuff all round.

In your case, your car, your engine, is not really well set up for long OCI's. Further, you already have gone through multiple R & P changes, presumably chasing down a sludge issue.

Further, you have also indicated some budget pressure, or at least a desire not to have too much oil inventory. (apologies if I have read too much into your comment)

I suggest that you use a high-quality, but mainstream oil (Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, yada yada) in the appropriate spec/weight, and change at 5,000 miles. To me, that just makes more sense for this situation. Best wishes.
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate your insights. You're not wrong, but I just want to try it, that's all
 
Wish they would go into more detail about whats the real difference between Premium and Premium Plus, given the price I'd opt for the latter but maybe I'm just a sucker.
Just have a look at the PDS and compare the MRV Viscosity between the Premium and Premium Plus. The latter would be better for starts in extreme cold. I can't say where the tipping point might be but odds are that you and I will never experience it. That being said I am converting the fleet over to Premium Plus "just because."
 
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I have the same engine. 2.4GDI
Get one gallon of Premium Plus 5w30 and one gallon of No VII 10w30.
I blended it 50-50 in the wife's Kia 2.0 almost 2k ago and my PAO / Ester frankenblend still hasn't blown-up the engine.

This exact same frankenblend is scheduled for the Hyundai 2.4 in March or April. I'm north of you BTW. Our climate changes here in the Midwest has allowed me to consider 10w30 year-round. I don't think we've had below zero weather nights for more than one week in at least 3-4 years. Most-all of our winter overnight lows are in two digits.

Both of my engines really like 10w30 and 0w40 SP. Engine's quiet, smooth and no consumption.
 
Wish they would go into more detail about whats the real difference between Premium and Premium Plus, given the price I'd opt for the latter but maybe I'm just a sucker.
Cold flow is the short answer. I can't give you the real tech stuff other than what is listed on the PDS.
 
My 2 cents...
You are trying to fix the oil consumption problem but the magic oil isn't working.
Try a barrymans B12 piston soak. It helped my Hyundai.
If none of this works, save your money and run Supertech. Your driving style is easy on oil.

I was just going to post the same thing. Berryman's B12 piston soak will certainly unstick the rings if thats the reason for the consumption problem. Then go back to using VR&P to polish it off. Did the trick to our Audi Q7 too!

Went from using a quart in 400 miles to using no oil in 3000 miles. I just did the second change of VR&P yesterday, this run will be for 5000 miles but the oil consumption sure did quit, and I figured it was the Berrymans that did the heavy lifting and unstuck the rings.
 
I was just going to post the same thing. Berryman's B12 piston soak will certainly unstick the rings if thats the reason for the consumption problem. Then go back to using VR&P to polish it off. Did the trick to our Audi Q7 too!

Went from using a quart in 400 miles to using no oil in 3000 miles. I just did the second change of VR&P yesterday, this run will be for 5000 miles but the oil consumption sure did quit, and I figured it was the Berrymans that did the heavy lifting and unstuck the rings.
How long did you let it soak?

Anyone ever try or think of trying something with PEA in a piston soak?
 
I think you’re chasing a mechanical issue with motor oil. If vrp showed no change in consumption then hpl will likely not either. I’d instead get a borescope in each cylinder to see if there’s scoring. If I were in your shoes, I’d try a cheap 10w30 and see where that takes me.

Btw, thanks for the tip regarding landscape mode on the phone- it worked for me.
 
With your driving style and the mileage you put on, I'd be using SuperTech. The only way HPL or Amsoil pays for itself is with looong drain intervals (with analysis).
After the $5 rebate (offer through next july), the 29.99 VRP is only like $5 more over SupedTech at the WMs in my area
 
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