Any plans for Valvoline Restore and Protect to release as a 0W30?

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hey all, i am excited to try valvoline restore and protect for my next oil change but was sad to find it only comes in 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30.

i undestand being around temps where the coldest is maybe 15f probably doesn't justify a 0w oil but i like the peace of mind having the best cold protection

i know asking valvoline is probably the best bet for this question but usually they just give generic replies so was wondering if anyone knows if a 0w30 is coming out soon?

if not, i guess 5w30 it is, or i can frankenbatch and make a 2.5w25
My theory is Valvoline wanted to first formulate the VRP in the most commonly used grades of 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30, and then determine the degree of public acceptance through sales volume before proceeding to formulate other grades.

Who knows, they could possibly be working on formulating 0W30 and 40 grades as we speak.

I think a 5W30 would be sufficient down to a 15F or lower temp.
 
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Why? R&P is not an oil to use on regular basis as staple oil,
Why not? Valvoline says, "With continuous use, Valvoline’s proprietary Active Clean technology removes up to 100% of deposits, while its exclusive Liqui-Shield technology works to prevent future deposit formation."
 
Don't get me wrong, it's a good oil, but why would one want to use it as 'regular' oil?
I've been running it in Sportage for the past 3k km, changed filter at 2.5k km and will change oil and filter at 5k km.
I can see it cleaning, oil is getting dark quick and seems thicker now. Interesting thing thou gas mileage noticeably improved going from 560-580km/tank to 620-630km/tank and oil consumption is back to none while used to burn 1qt every 2k miles.
I'll be going back to my fav Penn Euro LX at next oil change.
 
Don't get me wrong, it's a good oil, but why would one want to use it as 'regular' oil?
I've been running it in Sportage for the past 3k km, changed filter at 2.5k km and will change oil and filter at 5k km.
I can see it cleaning, oil is getting dark quick and seems thicker now. Interesting thing thou gas mileage noticeably improved going from 560-580km/tank to 620-630km/tank and oil consumption is back to none while used to burn 1qt every 2k miles.
I'll be going back to my fav Penn Euro LX at next oil change.

So a better question. If it's doing its job of cleaning, unsticking the oil control rings and giving good mileage, why wouldn't you continue to use it? All the UOA's I've seen so far have nice low wear metals. Makes sense to me to continue to use it long term.

I plan to use it long term in our Audi Q7 that was gobbling oil at a rapid rate. Its now using zero oil and I plan to keep it that way and continue to use VR&P long term. Not going to go back to the oil that stuck the the oil control rings again, thats for sure. The dealer serviced and recommended Castrol Euro oil changes that were done by the Audi dealer stuck the dang rings on it to begin with by the original owner! VR&P it is, Euro specs be ****ed.
 
Don't get me wrong, it's a good oil, but why would one want to use it as 'regular' oil?
I've been running it in Sportage for the past 3k km, changed filter at 2.5k km and will change oil and filter at 5k km.
I can see it cleaning, oil is getting dark quick and seems thicker now. Interesting thing thou gas mileage noticeably improved going from 560-580km/tank to 620-630km/tank and oil consumption is back to none while used to burn 1qt every 2k miles.
I'll be going back to my fav Penn Euro LX at next oil change.
I'd use it as a regular oil because, at least in your case., it seems your regular oil caused poor fuel economy and lead to excessive oil consumption.
 
The Mobil oil lab specifically told me to “Run 15W-50 Mobil one Extended performance in any flat tappet cam engine that is below the Arctic Circle”. Newer engines have smaller oil passages but I bet the restore oils in those light weights available will flow at the temps you see.
 
I had no oil consumption till about a year ago, car is about 11 years old and has 176k km on it so that was expected. I'll use my oil stash for now and will go to VRP if and when things get worse.
 
Don't get me wrong, it's a good oil, but why would one want to use it as 'regular' oil?
I've been running it in Sportage for the past 3k km, changed filter at 2.5k km and will change oil and filter at 5k km.
I can see it cleaning, oil is getting dark quick and seems thicker now. Interesting thing thou gas mileage noticeably improved going from 560-580km/tank to 620-630km/tank and oil consumption is back to none while used to burn 1qt every 2k miles.
I'll be going back to my fav Penn Euro LX at next oil change.
I believe the thought is if R&P can clean stuck oil control rings caused by other oils, continued use will guarantee other oils won’t cause sticking rings again.
 
I thought, I typed a few times, and then decided - fudge, cannot do strict rules - my rules are 'fluid'.
I do what works for me, I listen to others, but still do what works for me in the end. Very similar to fishing that I like and do, or audio taping.
 
Why? R&P is not an oil to use on regular basis as staple oil, the flavors they have are sufficient.

We abbreviate it to R&P and VRP, but don't forget it's Restore AND *Protect*. It's most definitely designed for-- and Valvoline wants you to use it--long term. Very hard for the product to do the *Protect* part of the name if you switch to a different oil.
 
A Euro R&P would be nice imo.
Count me in on wanting a lower calcium Euro R&P.

I am running the 5w-30 only in winter and am on my second change of it. Cleanest running oil as far as color in my Hyundai I have every seen. I know color doesn't mean anything, but hey it is staying clean and on a Hyundai no less. That at 3,000 miles dumps it is normally very black.
 
I would definitely be in favor of a VRP 10W-40, 15W-40, or 15W-50/20W-50, but not trying to get my hopes up. Australia has it in 10W-40. Until then, using HPL EC40
 
Valvoline is marketing this oil to the masses so their product offering will be closely tied to market share.

What percentage of the market, especially the DIY market, has vehicles that require an API SP, 0W30?
Ones that carry dexos 1 is all I can think of… and again, what’s the market share of vehicles that require dexos 1 0w30? Not enough to make a 0w30 and change the add pack (if it’s even compatible with both technologies) and pay the dexos license fee and pay for all the testing again! Hmm… so that $10/qt oil just became $20/qt just so 1700 people in the country can have an option to buy an oil that’s API SP dexos 0w30…. I tell jokes now! 😳
 
Count me in on wanting a lower calcium Euro R&P.

I am running the 5w-30 only in winter and am on my second change of it. Cleanest running oil as far as color in my Hyundai I have every seen. I know color doesn't mean anything, but hey it is staying clean and on a Hyundai no less. That at 3,000 miles dumps it is normally very black.
Why would a Euro oil “need” to be lower calcium? Both magnesium and molybdenum both have LSPI-prevention characteristics that offset calcium, if that’s what you’re meaning. Or was there some other reason?

My last No VII Euro 5w30 had nearly 2400ppm of calcium, but also 1200 magnesium and nearly 800 moly IIRC. I ran it in for 16k miles last OCI my 3.5 EB making nearly double the factory crankshaft HP and have no issues. It also still had a 7.8TBN when it was sampled at 14.4k miles 😳
 
Ones that carry dexos 1 is all I can think of… and again, what’s the market share of vehicles that require dexos 1 0w30? Not enough to make a 0w30 and change the add pack (if it’s even compatible with both technologies) and pay the dexos license fee and pay for all the testing again! Hmm… so that $10/qt oil just became $20/qt just so 1700 people in the country can have an option to buy an oil that’s API SP dexos 0w30…. I tell jokes now! 😳
Yep, many that feel the need for VRP’s potential benefit - are past warranty anyway - or similar to me with one each …
 
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