Want to try HPL after 4 OCIs of Valvoline Restore and Protect

[NewKid]

Didn't want to hijack anyone's thread about trying HPL or any of the ongoing discussions about HPL and Restore and Protect.



I'm almost half way through my 4th OCI with Valvoline's Restore and Protect. Im getting impatient waiting for a response from HPL so I thought I'd ask y'all since there's no shortage of members here that have used their products.

My question is, what's the best one I can get for my vehicle? To be clear, if I was wanting to try say, Amsoil for the first time, I personally would like to try the famous Signature Series (and I did) instead of their OE or next highest offering. I'm unfamiliar with HPLs products, so what their best of the best for passenger vehicles?

The car I drive is in my signature, and for those on mobile, a little trick to see signatures, hold your phone in landscape mode, and they should show up. It works for me when I do it.

A little more detail:

It's a 2019 Kia Sportage AWD (2.4L GDI) bought used with 98k in June. It's sits now with 120k, I've done four oil changes (5k OCIs) with the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30. Driving is a mix of "city" and highway, I commute 80 miles a day 5 days a week highway, and my wife puts about 40-60 miles suburban driving on it each night she works. In total the car averages 1000 miles a week more or less so I've been changing it almost every 5 weeks.

I plan to take the HPL to 7500 miles since anything more seems ill advised with these vehicles (Hyundai and Kias with Theta II) and anything less feels wasteful. However, due to my budget, and persistent oil consumption, I only plan on buying 2 gallons, that's a fill and three quarts of top off oil, which depending on the rate of consumption I experience, will last me until another change, or it won't and I'll have to buy something else (definitely topping off with VRP if it comes to it).

I bought a 2019 Tucson last year with only 13K. I am running HPL engine cleaner at half the recommended rate with 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. My theory, given the theta II engine worry, is that running either R&P or in my case HPL cleaner is that we are, at least, maintaining the status quo. In other words, we are giving ourselves the best chance of keeping the engine running as good as it currently is. Another way, the cleaning would be a plus in your case but hell, if the **** things don't develop the rod-bearing problem or just keep going then we are good, right? In the end, I REFUSE, to believe that just because Kia/Hyundai won't rebuild these engines that they manufactured them to be junk--which would make no sense whatsoever. I believe that modern GDI engines aren't being given proper chemicals to work with--coupled with terrible treatment from drivers--is the reason these engines break. Proper chemicals being, good gas, oil to counter carbon, etc. For example, I use top-tier fuel but I suspect that even that is inadequate for GDI. I use PUP, but my addition of HPL cleaner proves that even Pennzoil's top oil is just okay for GDI engines, according to my gut on this.

 

[Astro_Guy]

It's a 2019 Kia Sportage AWD (2.4L GDI) bought used with 98k in June. It's sits now with 120k, I've done four oil changes (5k OCIs) with the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30.

It seems to me that you should consider another vehicle. Just saying...

 

[MrBaumTastic]

It seems to me that you should consider another vehicle. Just saying...

Very observant of you

 

[Mewbs]

I would just stick with VRP and stick with severe service intervals. My experience with a friend's KIA 1.6 Liter Gamma GDI eating lots of oil before reaching 100K miles of age leaves me feeling unsettling. It took a VRP 5W-30 + HPL EC30 combo (4+1 quart) to bring down the consumption rate greatly though now it consumes far less oil which has entered its second oil change of the same combo. Fortunately for her she loves her 2013 RIO but the engine says otherwise it wants to die sooner if I didn't take it to her attention before its too late.

 

[kschachn]

I bought a 2019 Tucson last year with only 13K. I am running HPL engine cleaner at half the recommended rate with 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. My theory, given the theta II engine worry, is that running either R&P or in my case HPL cleaner is that we are, at least, maintaining the status quo. In other words, we are giving ourselves the best chance of keeping the engine running as good as it currently is. Another way, the cleaning would be a plus in your case but hell, if the **** things don't develop the rod-bearing problem or just keep going then we are good, right? In the end, I REFUSE, to believe that just because Kia/Hyundai won't rebuild these engines that they manufactured them to be junk--which would make no sense whatsoever. I believe that modern GDI engines aren't being given proper chemicals to work with--coupled with terrible treatment from drivers--is the reason these engines break. Proper chemicals being, good gas, oil to counter carbon, etc. For example, I use top-tier fuel but I suspect that even that is inadequate for GDI. I use PUP, but my addition of HPL cleaner proves that even Pennzoil's top oil is just okay for GDI engines, according to my gut on this.

On the other hand “chemicals” cannot ever correct what is a design error or poor materials.

 

[wlk]

I bought a 2019 Tucson last year with only 13K. I am running HPL engine cleaner at half the recommended rate with 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. My theory, given the theta II engine worry, is that running either R&P or in my case HPL cleaner is that we are, at least, maintaining the status quo. In other words, we are giving ourselves the best chance of keeping the engine running as good as it currently is. Another way, the cleaning would be a plus in your case but hell, if the **** things don't develop the rod-bearing problem or just keep going then we are good, right? In the end, I REFUSE, to believe that just because Kia/Hyundai won't rebuild these engines that they manufactured them to be junk--which would make no sense whatsoever. I believe that modern GDI engines aren't being given proper chemicals to work with--coupled with terrible treatment from drivers--is the reason these engines break. Proper chemicals being, good gas, oil to counter carbon, etc. For example, I use top-tier fuel but I suspect that even that is inadequate for GDI. I use PUP, but my addition of HPL cleaner proves that even Pennzoil's top oil is just okay for GDI engines, according to my gut on this.

I wouldn't waste the money on half rate. Just run it full strength or more realisticly just run a bottle of Rislone in each oil change. Easier to obtain and a full dose of Rislone costs the same. Or just run VRP in it for the life of it. Not really a win to 1/2 it. VRP needs nothing and would be the most cost effective out of the bunch.

 

[mrjlube]

Didn't want to hijack anyone's thread about trying HPL or any of the ongoing discussions about HPL and Restore and Protect.



I'm almost half way through my 4th OCI with Valvoline's Restore and Protect. Im getting impatient waiting for a response from HPL so I thought I'd ask y'all since there's no shortage of members here that have used their products.

My question is, what's the best one I can get for my vehicle? To be clear, if I was wanting to try say, Amsoil for the first time, I personally would like to try the famous Signature Series (and I did) instead of their OE or next highest offering. I'm unfamiliar with HPLs products, so what their best of the best for passenger vehicles?

The car I drive is in my signature, and for those on mobile, a little trick to see signatures, hold your phone in landscape mode, and they should show up. It works for me when I do it.

A little more detail:

It's a 2019 Kia Sportage AWD (2.4L GDI) bought used with 98k in June. It's sits now with 120k, I've done four oil changes (5k OCIs) with the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30. Driving is a mix of "city" and highway, I commute 80 miles a day 5 days a week highway, and my wife puts about 40-60 miles suburban driving on it each night she works. In total the car averages 1000 miles a week more or less so I've been changing it almost every 5 weeks.

I plan to take the HPL to 7500 miles since anything more seems ill advised with these vehicles (Hyundai and Kias with Theta II) and anything less feels wasteful. However, due to my budget, and persistent oil consumption, I only plan on buying 2 gallons, that's a fill and three quarts of top off oil, which depending on the rate of consumption I experience, will last me until another change, or it won't and I'll have to buy something else (definitely topping off with VRP if it comes to it).

Hey nice trick for the phone. Thank you!

 

[mrjlube]

How long did you let it soak?

Anyone ever try or think of trying something with PEA in a piston soak?

Another great option I've used and had success with personally is run a can of BG EPR through the engine for 10 min before the oil change. Change the oil with r&p and add a can of BG MOA. I have seen this completely stop consumption issues in a Kia and a Toyota. Just my 2 cents. Happy New Year..

 

[tired]

Curious if OP has an update on this. What did you end up doing? Any luck?

Also, have you taken it to a mechanic to look for a mechanical cause? Does anyone even replace short blocks or rebuild these engines?

 

[Elmo Howe]

On the other hand “chemicals” cannot ever correct what is a design error or poor materials.

Errr..... so Slick 50 really DIDN'T put a Teflon coating on all of the lubed surfaces of a few hundred thousand engines ? Say it ain't so !

 

[oilstained]

I was just going to post the same thing. Berryman's B12 piston soak will certainly unstick the rings if thats the reason for the consumption problem. Then go back to using VR&P to polish it off. Did the trick to our Audi Q7 too!

Went from using a quart in 400 miles to using no oil in 3000 miles. I just did the second change of VR&P yesterday, this run will be for 5000 miles but the oil consumption sure did quit, and I figured it was the Berrymans that did the heavy lifting and unstuck the rings.

DW’s 07 RAV4 2.4L goes through 1qt every 500 mi. I’ve seen YT on piston soaks with Berrymans. Problem is, I just can’t make myself doing it. Would you know if there’s an alternative method, such as using Berrymans for it’s intended use, pour into gas tank?

 

[tired]

DW’s 07 RAV4 2.4L goes through 1qt every 500 mi. I’ve seen YT on piston soaks with Berrymans. Problem is, I just can’t make myself doing it. Would you know if there’s an alternative method, such as using Berrymans for it’s intended use, pour into gas tank?

What’s the ol change history like? How many miles?

Have you already tried VRP?

 

[oilstained]

What’s the ol change history like? How many miles?

Have you already tried VRP?

Rav4 engine has the oil consumption issue. Last few years short tripping. Just started with the first VRP oc.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/valvoline-restore-protect.381635/post-7245043

 

[oilstained]

Although I’m not up to doing a piston soak, I do have the capability of opening up the valve cover for a peek. That said, should I plan on getting a valve cover gasket or liquid gasket?

 

[KnappAttak]

DW’s 07 RAV4 2.4L goes through 1qt every 500 mi. I’ve seen YT on piston soaks with Berrymans. Problem is, I just can’t make myself doing it. Would you know if there’s an alternative method, such as using Berrymans for it’s intended use, pour into gas tank?

Why not do it if the rings are stuck. So easy to do on a inline 4 cylinder engine. You can pour it into the gas tank yes, but it will not free up the oil control rings. The piston needs to soak with the product coming into contact with the cartooned up oil control rings which is the third ring down. Do the soak to free the rings up and stop the consumption.

A great thing to do prior to doing the soak however is using a heavy cleanup dose of Yamaha ring free to clean the top of the piston and combustion chamber to prevent the carbon from falling off and preventing the crank from turning over due to interference in the gap from piston to head at TDC.

The piston soak will guarantee to free the rings up when done properly and do it quickly.

 

[mt23]

Why not do it if the rings are stuck. So easy to do on a inline 4 cylinder engine. You can pour it into the gas tank yes, but it will not free up the oil control rings. The piston needs to soak with the product coming into contact with the cartooned up oil control rings which is the third ring down. Do the soak to free the rings up and stop the consumption.

A great thing to do prior to doing the soak however is using a heavy cleanup dose of Yamaha ring free to clean the top of the piston and combustion chamber to prevent the carbon from falling off and preventing the crank from turning over due to interference in the gap from piston to head at TDC.

The piston soak will guarantee to free the rings up when done properly and do it quickly.

I second this. I did a piston soak to my Grandmas 2007 rav 4 which went from 3 to 4 quarts consumption in 5,000 miles to less than a half quart in 5,000. Using B12 in the gas tank every 3 tanks as directed has given me a very clean exhaust ports, exhaust manifold, oxygen sensors and cat at a glance