Hello all! First post on BITOG, and figured I would document my use of Valvoline Restore and Protect in my 2010 Honda CR-V EX-L. It currently burns around a quart every 3k and I wanted to see if VRP can free up the infamous "low tension piston rings" my 2010 is known for having. I put 4.4 quarts of it in last night along with a new Mobil 1 M1-110A filter, and plan to get an oil filter cutter to cut filters open as I progress through the 4 OCI's. My baffle plate has a good bit of varnish on it, likely left over from the previous owner's extended oil change intervals. From what I know they ran it strictly off of the service light which means they likely went 10k and up on each oil change. Since I acquired the car in February of 2019, I have always put Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage 0w-20 into it with the M1 filter. I did for a bit use Lucas High Mileage additive but finding out how additives do absolutely nothing for your car I stopped using it early last year. I've only used straight oil the last two OCI's. I will continue to add to this thread every week to give updates. For now, here is some before pictures of the used Mobil 1 I took out of the engine and the baffle plate. The bits in the drain pan look like metal but it is just dust from my garage.
![IMG_6168[1].webp](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/img_6168-1-webp.269114/ "IMG_6168[1].webp")
![IMG_6170[1].webp](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/img_6170-1-webp.269115/ "IMG_6170[1].webp")
![IMG_6169[1].webp](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/img_6169-1-webp.269116/ "IMG_6169[1].webp")
Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20 Honda CR-V
- Thread starter Cellis45
- Start date
can’t wait to follow along on this. I’ll be back to my V in a few weeks and plan to finally pull the valve cover and then promptly change the oil over to VRP. I’ve got it in all my vehicles now.
Welcome! Look forward to your results. Don’t give up and do at least 4 oci’s with R&P. Honestly I’m really starting to wonder about the M1 Triple Action formula. Doesn’t seem to clean like M1 was known for based on what’s been seen here lately.
I switched to M1 last fall. Haven't run M1 in decades. After some teething problems (excessive noise and burn off) usage has stopped, noise has subsided, and engine runs quite well with consistent power/torque. An indication of clean ring lands and pistons.
So much so I plan to do another M1 change this spring. May delay change to 8 months since its running well.
Fill was M1 5W30, top off was a quart of M1 0W16, which AFAIK has a more robust AP than the Plain Jane M1. Ford engine Oil cap says 5W20.
Hopefully the VR&P will work similar magic on the OP's Honda.
- Old Arco learning new tricks.
OMG - you ventured over to the BITOG rabbit hole from CRV Owners Club and a filter cutter planned! Welcome 
. Now we can abuse, I mean advise you in multiple places.
Slow and steady clean up is good as long as it's running well. Do consider a filter swap at around 2k and if possible cut open to inspect. At this point for me I would recommend a CarQuest Premium filter from Advance Auto Parts or one of versions from O'Reillys or whatever is around you. Lots of of filters having issues and the Premium Guard filters seem to be one of the better choices especially when you get costs involved.
Now about those headlights and polishing..........
. Now we can Slow and steady clean up is good as long as it's running well. Do consider a filter swap at around 2k and if possible cut open to inspect. At this point for me I would recommend a CarQuest Premium filter from Advance Auto Parts or one of versions from O'Reillys or whatever is around you. Lots of of filters having issues and the Premium Guard filters seem to be one of the better choices especially when you get costs involved.
Now about those headlights and polishing..........
Haha, glad to be here. I'll look into getting a filter change at 2k if the oil starts looking very dark around then. I have a headlight restore kit from Sylvania I plan to use once this bipolar Midwest weather gets better.OMG - you ventured over to the BITOG rabbit hole from CRV Owners Club and a filter cutter planned! Welcomeabuse,I mean advise you in multiple places.
Slow and steady clean up is good as long as it's running well. Do consider a filter swap at around 2k and if possible cut open to inspect. At this point for me I would recommend a CarQuest Premium filter from Advance Auto Parts or one of versions from O'Reillys or whatever is around you. Lots of of filters having issues and the Premium Guard filters seem to be one of the better choices especially when you get costs involved.
Now about those headlights and polishing..........
So when you are going to buy 30 cases of oil and make it official?
I have a bunch of Kirkland left for my wife's car but I think I am going to switch over to VRP for at least 2 but probably 4 OCIs then go back and finish the Kirkland, assuming the car lasts that long. Car has ~170k miles I believe. Will be using Fram Ultra filters too. That's what I have been using for a few years now. OCIs are usually around 6-7.5k miles. Whenever the MM gets to around 5-10%. Should be due for a change in the next few months. Probably around June is when I'll start. I think the MM is at 40% now. I won't be doing a cut and post but I will take picks of the fill hole if I remember. When I used HPL once in her car, it started to clean up the plate. Gonna be using 5W-20 since I have at least 3 jugs of it. The 0W-20 will be for a different car.
Update at 1500k miles into the first VRP interval - not much change in baffle plate buildup but some oil buildup on the camshaft I can see is gone - I did have a bit of consumption and currently resting at 1/4 quart consumed. MPG still normal. Could look into a filter swap - pictures coming soon. Dipstick has been cleaned up a good bit towards the bottom / middle part.
My OCI's when I first acquired the V were 7.5k miles but soon shortened it to 5k due to the burning. I used Synthetic Extended Performance High Mileage 0W-20 with the Mobil One M1-110A filter. Still was burning around a quart every 2.5k before I switched to VRP 0W-20. Yeah it's a bit picky but want to slow down the consumption as much before I can look into replacing the converters, which I believe are now fouled due to the burning. Constant P0420 fault.
Based on what I see in the OP, I wouldn't go 5k on the first run. My filter was nearly plugged in 2500 miles on the *second* run of VRP.
Personally, I'd change the first filter (at least, if not all oil)) before 3k, with 2k being a better idea to cut and inspect.
Keep with the VRP. Looking forward to seeing the results!
It really varies with how dirty your engine is when you first go to the VRP. My J35 was a museum of epic varnish after 200k+, so it's somewhat of an extreme case.
Those of you who wisely changed oil more frequently and kept cleaner engines probably will not see anything so aggressive from VRP.
Similar threads
- Locked