Oil for 2000 Subaru Legacy w/ Unknown Oil History

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Hi--

I just purchased a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT with 50,000 miles on it to replace my first 2000 Subaru Legacy GT that developed a burnt valve around 218,000 miles. I used Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 or w40 in my old car as it used about a quart of oil in 1000 miles.

Since the "new" car is low mileage but is 16 years old, I'm torn about which oil I should use. I don't know what kind of oil has been in the car up until this point, but do know the majority of its oil changes were at the dealer.

Subaru Recommendations:
"API classification SJ or SH with the words “ENERGY CONSERVING II” (if you cannot obtain the oil with SJ or SH grade, you may use SG grade oil.) or the new API certification mark (Starburst mark) displayed on the container." The manual also states 5w-30 is preferred up to 40*c. 10w-30 and 10w-40 is also listed for higher temperatures.

Typical Driving Contitions:
I drive mostly in the mountains of Virginia and the interstates of North Carolina, and tend to drive my car pretty hard. I either drive 15 minutes at a time when running errands or an hour+ on windy mountain roads and highways. I change my oil every 5000 miles or so, and would like to extend that if possible.

My Research Up To This Point:
I know I would probably be fine with a decent synthetic blend, but would prefer to overdo it, especially since several of the oils I'm thinking of aren't that much more expensive than what I'm used to. I found a rather thorough post on the NASOIC Forum about various types of oils, and have narrowed it down to three:

  • Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30, HT/HS of 3.0, ACEA A5/B5
  • Shell Rotella T6 5w40, HT/HS of 3.8 (estimated), ACEA E9
  • Mobil 1 0w40, HT/HS of 3.8, ACEA A3/B4

I like the fact that the Mobile 1 AFE may not be as thick and may therefore increase fuel economy, but has a lower HT/HS rating. The Shell RT6 has a very high sheer stability. I'm only considering the third option because it seems to be so highly recommended by so many people. I've also considered AMSOIL and Royal Purple, but I'm not sure they're worth the extra money for my purposes.


Do I need to be concerned about using a w40 oil in the winter? Would any of these have significant advantages over the others?

Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
 
Personally, I'd stay clear of the M-1 0W-30 AFE for this time of year in that engine.

Good options between Shell T6 and M-1 0W-40 you listed, I'd go with whichever is cheaper.

My '09 Forester seems to like Quaker State Defy 5W-30 since I loaded it in April, no consumption at ~3K miles on this OCI and the engine is quiet.
 
You do not need to be concerned about 40-weight oils in Virginia winters.

Being a turbo model, I'd use Rotella T6. Mobil 1 0w-40 or 10w-40 HM are fine too, as are Castrol 0w-30 and 0w-40.

I prefer to stay away from the lighter energy conserving oils in turbo motors. The 2% fuel economy that you might gain isn't worth the extra risk to the turbo and bearings.

Stick with non-energy conserving oils that have an HTHS of at least 3.5.
 
Thanks, both of you, for the advice. I may give the M1 0w40 a try.

Do I need to be concerned about moving from what may be a regular dinosaur oil to a mostly synthetic oil at this point?

Also, this model year Subaru Legacy GT just had the 2.5L EJ251 engine without a Turbo. The non-GT model, I believe, came with the 2.2L.
 
No need to worry about the synthetic.

I wasn't aware that the GT came without a turbo. My apologies; I should haven't assumed that. I suppose that makes it easier to choose. In any case, those options suggested earlier are just fine.
 
GC Castrol 0W-30 also has seal conditioners that help prevent main seal leaks.

GC (Castrol European formula) in the black bottle will say European formula on the front of the bottle.
 
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I would just go with what you used in your previous car. I have a 2000 RS with 165k on it that's seen mainly Max Life or Pennzoil HM xW30 for ~6k mile intervals. I wouldn't bother with full synthetic unless you intend to go beyond 7,500 mile intervals.

Maybe do a couple of 3,750 mile intervals and then extend to 5, 6, or 7k miles.

-Dennis
 
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Originally Posted By: Quince81
Thanks, both of you, for the advice. I may give the M1 0w40 a try.

Do I need to be concerned about moving from what may be a regular dinosaur oil to a mostly synthetic oil at this point?

Also, this model year Subaru Legacy GT just had the 2.5L EJ251 engine without a Turbo. The non-GT model, I believe, came with the 2.2L.


If it is the plain-jane EJ25, anything will work. While the engine ate head-gaskets (external in your case), it is really easy on oil. I run my Phase 1 EJ on anything that is one sale... as even 5w20 holds up well. Right now it is a 5w20 and 10w40 mix. I would recommend running anything on sale/clearance. M1 0w40 will offer very little benefit IMO. Unless you are looking for 20K+ OCI, then there is no reason for the upper-end oils. The healthy EJ can easily get 7K on Conv oil. Maybe if you want to run some HM oil just because it is an older vehicle, then it is not a bad idea (16 yo "average sedan" with 50K suggest to me it was sitting a lot).

The '00 was the beginning of another era of Subie engines. The 2.2 was only used in a few Imprezas and the base/manual Legacies got a 155hp EJ252... otherwise, the non-GT got the EJ251 (including the base AT version) as well. The Early 00s GT (as well as the 90s) was a brake/suspension upgrade package and is not the turbo-monster of later badges.

Anyway, simple conventional is fine in these EJs for as long as the engine is healthy. Run any of the three grades (5w30, 10w30, or 10w40) without worry. Even a few of us run 5w20 (heck, it was on sale in my case). Some folks say the piston slap is worse in the 5w20 but I have not seen/heard other weights doing anything to absolve this issue (despite claims).
 
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