Triax 0w-16 ('24 Crosstrek)

This wasn't a spam post, I was genuinely curious after reading the older information. I didn't expect it to get this intense but this is BITOG. Lol Just reading through all the ranting. This was somewhat helpful but I think I'll just stick to Mobil1.

Also, I'm sticking with 0w-16 as that is what Subaru requires. 0w-20 is allowed for top up but Subaru will not tell you to use it exclusively and just to follow the manual, I wouldn't trust anything a dealer says.

Thanks all.
I didn’t think you were spamming us - but I see some really weird ideas, fetishes, even, when comes to oil on particular car marque forums. I don’t own a Subaru, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the Subaru forums had some weird ideas on oil, certainly those ideas exist on the Mercedes forums that I frequent.
 
Triax Lubricants has always struck me as quasi front company for some shady Eastern European money laundering operation. They always seem to release their product first and then catch up after the fact with any certifications if at all.

To date, I have not really seen or heard of any of their products not at least be of minimal quality to do what they claim they are, just the actual documentation for it is lacking.

Not saying I would never use any of their products but they would not be a first choice.
 
Triax Lubricants has always struck me as quasi front company for some shady Eastern European money laundering operation. They always seem to release their product first and then catch up after the fact with any certifications if at all.

To date, I have not really seen or heard of any of their products not at least be of minimal quality to do what they claim they are, just the actual documentation for it is lacking.

Not saying I would never use any of their products but they would not be a first choice.
LOL same. Strange operation. With so many high end choices available, to me it makes little sense to even consider this unusual brand.
 
If your advertising sounds like a Power Thirst commercial, I'm going to call it out, the same way I do with Lucas. It's not bashing, it's valid criticism. I'll call out any brand for misleading, totally false or outright ridiculous marketing, just like I did when Shell started posting piston pictures. Nobody gets a free pass to act like their audience is comprised of morons.

If Petro-Canada sent you an e-mail that was like "Our super jumbo elongator formula 9000 rebuilds your engine as you drive; stops wear in its tracks like a badger on cocaine and gets together the dad's of all the other oils and beats their heads in with a 2x4, THERE IS NOTHING BETTER!!!11111ONE" I'd be all over them for the same reason.
I will still call this a forum a pile-on and overreaction to a purportedly legitimate company with a licensed API product.

Would I buy, try or use the stuff? likely not. I would require more data and validation e.g.: VOA with UOA follow-up.
Then, the containers would need to be on the clearance table up the street at my local CARPARTS joint for cheap.

Another negative, more egregious than TRIAX misuse of terms like Nano Technology, they did NOT respond to my email yesterday - though I have an odd address and my query likely went straight into the SPAM folder.

I have absolutely NO skin in the game here, my defense of this Ghost Ship is haggard. I am out.

- Arco
 
I will still call this a forum a pile-on and overreaction to a purportedly legitimate company with a licensed API product.

Would I buy, try or use the stuff? likely not. I would require more data and validation e.g.: VOA with UOA follow-up.
Then, the containers would need to be on the clearance table up the street at my local CARPARTS joint for cheap.

Another negative, more egregious than TRIAX misuse of terms like Nano Technology, they did NOT respond to my email yesterday - though I have an odd address and my query likely went straight into the SPAM folder.

I have absolutely NO skin in the game here, my defense of this Ghost Ship is haggard. I am out.

- Arco
We've had some previous threads on the subject, that now no longer exist, but one of them involved a discussion around a claim that a product met conflicting approvals 😬

There's more history that unfortunately can't be discussed, but suffice to say, a lot of this has been beat-up, rehashed and even "discussed" (more like a WWE event) with a rep from the company on here at one point, and I don't find doubling-down on what people are taking issue with (the outrageous marketing) as helpful.

The API approvals, as you know, put a product in a box. You are limited on what you can do within that box and still be approved. The limits on phosphorous for example, base oil interchange restrictions...etc. This goes doubly for if you are just buying a pre-approved additive package from Lubrizol/Afton/Infineum/Oronite, like is the case for most small blenders, companies who don't have the resources of say ExxonMobil/Shell/Infineum to develop and test product-specific additive packages that can then be formally approved, which costs considerable sums of money.

So if you are taking Afton cookie cutter "formula B" that's API SP, Ford WSS-blah blah, Dexos 1 Gen 3 and producing a licensed product, that means you are working within the restrictions, like base oil, that Afton has imposed on that additive package and if you are doing any top-treating, this must also be within the limits imposed. This is your box. So, if this is your situation, you aren't adding Mondo Engobulator 9 billion to it, because it would not longer be able to carry the approval. If we look at Royal Purple, that's exactly what took place with their Synerlec additive, those products were not API approved, neither was/is Redline white bottle due to its amount of top-treatment, or AMSOIL's SS oils, even though they have API-compliant levels of phosphorous.

This is sort of where the wheels come off the trolley, because while the API mandates a minimum level of performance, it also restricts additives like phosphorous, so if you are going to play in their sandbox, you really can't simultaneously claim to be in their box while offering performance that's worlds outside it.
 
I'll be honest, compared to XADO, TRIAX is on a pedestal.

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Below was my dealing with Triax when I bought what was suppose to be CHF 11S spec power steering fluid for my then owned VW Jetta.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-labels-at-walmart.330345/page-3#post-5650086

They ran out of correctly labeled bottles and put it into a universal fluid spec bottle and slapped a printed sticker on it with the correct fluid type and I was suppose to have confidence it was all ok and correct.
 
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Below was my dealing with Triax when I bought what was suppose to be CHF 11S spec power steering fluid for my then owned VW Jetta.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-labels-at-walmart.330345/page-3#post-5650086

They ran out of correctly labeled bottles and put it into a universal fluid spec bottle and slapped a printed sticker on it with the correct fluid type and I was suppose to have confidence it was all ok and correct.
Uh, but you didn’t see the message from the owner… He said they’re “quite different.” That should leave you oozing with confidence.
 
I didn’t think you were spamming us - but I see some really weird ideas, fetishes, even, when comes to oil on particular car marque forums. I don’t own a Subaru, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the Subaru forums had some weird ideas on oil, certainly those ideas exist on the Mercedes forums that I frequent.
There’s a reason why I don’t frequent Subaru forums… there’s a whole lot of brand (car or oil) fetishes, and little to no data or sense used in choices. It’s all propaganda or emotion. From my experience there are two solid, data-proven points for Subaru owners: 1. If non-turbo or turbo FA24, use a synthetic 30 grade (>3.2 HT/HS) from a major; 2. If turbo EJ25X, is a synthetic 40 grade (>3.5 HT/HS) from a major.

Boutiques may make your 🥜 tingle but it’s not needed; the HT/HS is what’s going to keep your engine working well in these cases. I’ve accumulated well over 800k miles on various boxers following this regimen with zero oil-related issues.
 
There’s a reason why I don’t frequent Subaru forums… there’s a whole lot of brand (car or oil) fetishes, and little to no data or sense used in choices. It’s all propaganda or emotion. From my experience there are two solid, data-proven points for Subaru owners: 1. If non-turbo or turbo FA24, use a synthetic 30 grade (>3.2 HT/HS) from a major; 2. If turbo EJ25X, is a synthetic 40 grade (>3.5 HT/HS) from a major.

Boutiques may make your 🥜 tingle but it’s not needed; the HT/HS is what’s going to keep your engine working well in these cases. I’ve accumulated well over 800k miles on various boxers following this regimen with zero oil-related issues.
after some studying many brands I will be using Pennzoil Ultra-Platinum 0w-20 as the best choice for my needs, if this helps the conversation any ...&....will not affect the warranty.
 
after some studying many brands I will be using Pennzoil Ultra-Platinum 0w-20 as the best choice for my needs, if this helps the conversation any ...&....will not affect the warranty.
It’s not the worst choice you could make. But I’d bet you an oil change you’ll find that the 20 grade will be out of spec for viscosity at 6k, whereas the 30 grade would still be in spec as far as min recommended viscosity. 30 grade oil would not affect your warranty.
 
This wasn't a spam post, I was genuinely curious after reading the older information. I didn't expect it to get this intense but this is BITOG. Lol Just reading through all the ranting. This was somewhat helpful but I think I'll just stick to Mobil1.

Also, I'm sticking with 0w-16 as that is what Subaru requires. 0w-20 is allowed for top up but Subaru will not tell you to use it exclusively and just to follow the manual, I wouldn't trust anything a dealer says.

Thanks all.
Please accept my apology about your post being spam. I jumped to the conclusion too quick, but it has happened before.

Nothing wrong with staying with the required grade during the warranty period.

I don't think you can go wrong with M1 if it meets the requirements.
 
It’s not the worst choice you could make. But I’d bet you an oil change you’ll find that the 20 grade will be out of spec for viscosity at 6k, whereas the 30 grade would still be in spec as far as min recommended viscosity. 30 grade oil would not affect your warranty.
ultimately, I have thought of using Amsoil ss 0w-30 down the road after warranty time, currently after the free dealer change around 6-9 hundred miles my oci with pup will be 6 months or under 5k,(likely around 4k), I hope will be fine, any suggestions are welcome though (I have not purchased the oil yet).
 
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