Not trolling, but all things being equal, why not just use SuperTech for everything?

Not sure I'd call it amazing? They don't have much in the way of Euro offerings.

On the Group III/II+ front however, XOM produces their EHC products for just that purpose:
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as you get heavier you pretty much need a significant amount of Group II or alternatively a PAO base.

at least from what’s commercially available, no GIII can make a 15W40 HDEO
 
Your whole premise of ST being "good enough" then saying you are doing 3k and 4k oci for better protection is a contradiction.
So now you are saying its not Good enough and we should go back to 3k OCI?

Also trying to draw a picture that affects everyone when vehicles and use differs so much means your over generalization is a turd that smells bad.

I have no issues using it in a port injected engine calling for conventional or a weak spec such as chrysler ms-6395

In an engine that requires certain specs such as VW, Mercedes, jeep ms-13340. I wouldnt use it. I certainly wouldnt use it and act like shortening the OCI to 3k is better than just running an oil that meets the certification required.


Let me remind you my "smart"response that triggered you was in reply to your title

You arent talking about just using it in your subaru.. but everything... that would just be a terrible idea. Personally I think using it in your subaru and running 3k oci because its not good enough is also a terrible idea over using a better oil, but hey thats just my opinion. I also pay less for PP and RGT MUCH less than ST costs.. so why would I pay more and use ST in everything?

Everything as in every application and situation, all things being equal. I'm not suggesting to use it in place of diesel oil or in jets for instance and it's unreasonable to infer I meant as such. What part of "all things being equal" don't you understand?

Every oil will shear and dilute. Some earlier than others. I find more comfort in changing whatever is in there more frequently. So for oils being the same grade, having the same certifications, whether one is branded Walmart or branded Ferrari should make no difference if they'll perform equally within the same confines of use.

Nobody is triggered, and you can take your thread-crapping elsewhere.
 
i know I'm going to use the full synthetic Super tech 75w90 gl5 gear oil, the REDLINE 75w85 oil i have been using has really priced me out
 
Extra safe from what? There are no guarantees in life. ;) Whether your interval is 3k, 4k, 5k, the DIT FA's are showing 2-5% fuel dilution. Used viscosity on 5W-30's in the FA24DIT is showing pretty much the same as used viscosity of 0W-20's. Maybe less wear with a shorter interval? Are you doing uoa's?

That's why many WRX owner's use ACEA C3 5W-30's like Motul or Mobil 1 (and the RT6 MV mentioned by @Ignatius ). So yes, the bigger brands have more choices of higher HTHS oils. Other people just want to use the brands they like, or the oil that has the coolest bottle.

I don't do UOAs. My philosophy is do it myself as frequently as is reasonable for the conditions I drive in. I figure almost any full synthetic oil with the necessary certs should perform well with a short interval (half of, or less, what the manufacturer recommends).
 
Tig1 has used that same OCI for TGDI engines as well.

I don't know what Tig1 is, but it's definitely better to err on the side of caution with TGDI in my opinion. Every manufacturer has had growing pains with them in one shape or another. Look at the Honda 1.5T for instance.
 
Everything as in every application and situation, all things being equal. I'm not suggesting to use it in place of diesel oil or in jets for instance and it's unreasonable to infer I meant as such. What part of "all things being equal" don't you understand?

Every oil will shear and dilute. Some earlier than others. I find more comfort in changing whatever is in there more frequently. So for oils being the same grade, having the same certifications, whether one is branded Walmart or branded Ferrari should make no difference if they'll perform equally within the same confines of use.

Nobody is triggered, and you can take your thread-crapping elsewhere.

But all things are never equal, hence what I pointed out with Mobil's Group II+ blending stuff.
 
But all things are never equal, hence what I pointed out with Mobil's Group II+ blending stuff.

Which is what I'm trying to figure out. Will SuperTech offer less protection in the same driving conditions and change interval, as something like Castrol Edge even if both have the exact same certifications?

I don't really care if one is GTL, group 10, or sprinkled with unicorn fairy dust if the performance is the same under the same circumstances.
 
Which is what I'm trying to figure out. Will SuperTech offer less protection in the same driving conditions and change interval, as something like Castrol Edge even if both have the exact same certifications?

I don't really care if one is GTL, group 10, or sprinkled with unicorn fairy dust if the performance is the same under the same circumstances.

The approvals (which are really all we have to go on) are a guarantee as to a minimum level of performance. So, if they are appropriate for the application, they should all provide comparable performance.

That said, there are some significantly more stringent certs/approvals on the market, the vast majority European. Porsche A40 and C30 for example are quite extensive, far beyond any of the basic API tests or DEXOS. Now, is there a benefit running an oil that has A40 in a vehicle that doesn't call for it? Probably not? But if there is, it is probably minuscule.

Two 0w-40's with A40 can have wildly different MRV figures (CCS will be closer) because of base oil composition. Since cold temp performance is allowed to slip a grade in service, that 0w-40 can become a 5w-40 in use. A 0w-40 that's PAO-based will be far less likely to slip because it's not dependant on PPD's to achieve that performance. Same with oxidation resistance (which PAO is better at) at the extremes.
 
The approvals (which are really all we have to go on) are a guarantee as to a minimum level of performance. So, if they are appropriate for the application, they should all provide comparable performance.

That said, there are some significantly more stringent certs/approvals on the market, the vast majority European. Porsche A40 and C30 for example are quite extensive, far beyond any of the basic API tests or DEXOS. Now, is there a benefit running an oil that has A40 in a vehicle that doesn't call for it? Probably not? But if there is, it is probably minuscule.

Two 0w-40's with A40 can have wildly different MRV figures (CCS will be closer) because of base oil composition. Since cold temp performance is allowed to slip a grade in service, that 0w-40 can become a 5w-40 in use. A 0w-40 that's PAO-based will be far less likely to slip because it's not dependant on PPD's to achieve that performance. Same with oxidation resistance (which PAO is better at) at the extremes.

This is helpful information, thanks. Does C30 cover LSPI?
 
Which is what I'm trying to figure out. Will SuperTech offer less protection in the same driving conditions and change interval, as something like Castrol Edge even if both have the exact same certifications?

I don't really care if one is GTL, group 10, or sprinkled with unicorn fairy dust if the performance is the same under the same circumstances.
dexos1g2 and API SP are bare minimum requirements. the former is not very far from the latter

d1g3 is supposed to end the get dexos cheap and quick schemes
 
This is like asking a random selection of people what is the best food. The best food is keeps you in good health and with the energy needed to do the things you want to do. if that came in the form of a cheap green goo was scientifically proven to sustain you for the rest of your life, noone would eat it. variety is the spice of life. explains royal purple. :)
 
Nobody is triggered, and you can take your thread-crapping elsewhere.
Well technically the personal attack and crapping seems to be coming mostly from you.
I respond and you crap on me.. then someone else says the same thing and you dont. maybe check your attitude.
Just because you dont like what I say doesnt mean I am personally attacking you.. or crapping in your thread.

This whole thread is a hot mess of you contradicting yourself. Maybe you used the wrong words but your title says everything.
and I took that to mean vehicles powered by gasoline.. nothing exotic. but there is plenty of reasons to not use supertech in everything.

For your subaru I'd be looking for relevant specs and PP has jeep ms-13340, d1g2, API SP I would definitely prefer that in your subaru for 5k miles over ST at 3k miles... my last PP cost around 12$/5qt why would I want to downgrade to ST at 17$/5qt

For a port injected hyundai with 135hp and 2L engine ST would be more than adequate but I would be shopping on price and other syn oils can be had cheaper.
 
Well the next time I see SuperTech 5w30 Full Synthetic for $2.19/quart I'm going to stock up.

Dexos D1G2, API SP, and ILSAC GF-6A are good enough for me for 4,000 miles in all sorts of driving conditions.
It's got all the latest certifications ... that's what matters most. For 4K OCIs, anything with the same certs would be fine.
 
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I've never heard of that... but it's easy to unscrew the cap and see if the seal is there. That's if it's not one of those caps that has an integrated seal already.
Valvoline 5 qt jugs are great for checking the seal. The cap is clear so you can see the foil seal without removing the cap ... good idea on Valvoline's part IMO.
 
With so many annual rebates out there, it's possible to use major brand synthetic oil for less cost than Supertech. Mobil 1 annual rebates work out to about $14 per 5-quart jug... pretty sure Supertech syn is more than $14. Pennzoil has regular rebates too.
 
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