Not trolling, but all things being equal, why not just use SuperTech for everything?

Not trying to start a forum war, but I've been wondering, if you're someone who changes oil frequently, does it make sense to use anything other than SuperTech synthetic? I've never used it before, what I've used previously is Mobil1 AFE, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge Titanium. My goal is to maximize engine reliability.

Is there really any difference using something like Castrol Edge vs SuperTech (both 5w30)? If both are D1G2, SN+, and GF-6 certified, and you do changes every 4,000 miles or so, what's the downside? I don't mind paying more if I'm getting my money's worth, but lately everything has been around double SuperTech's price. So if there's truly no benefit, I'd rather not throw away money.

Engine is an FA20DIT in a WRX. I take LSPI very seriously and I also know TGDI engines like to shear oil hence the frequent changes.

Does the rating on the back meet your spec?

If so you can run it with confidence while making an argument spending more won't buy you a thing.

The rating on the back is far more important than the name on the front.
 
If you are referring to your F150 you chose the ST transmission fluid because it's recommended for Mercon and Dex III. This IS NOT the correct fluid for your transfer case. It takes a special fluid only made by Ford. It is available from Amazon and that's where I got mine.
Does Ford give it free to customers? If it's the only fluid in the world that Ford requires to maintain warranty, then they legally must provide it for free.
 
If you are referring to your F150 you chose the ST transmission fluid because it's recommended for Mercon and Dex III. This IS NOT the correct fluid for your transfer case. It takes a special fluid only made by Ford. It is available from Amazon and that's where I got mine.
I have an F-250 and made sure the fluid was the right one. I watched a Ford Boss video that talked all about this and looked long and hard for the right transfer case oil. I went to six different auto parts places until finding the right fluid in Wallmart of all places. when I bought my truck I personally changed all the fluids. I used the factory manual to get all the correct specs also.
 
Just how did Walmart get it right? Out of all the oils out there to brand with their moniker....know what I mean?
 
I have an F-250 and made sure the fluid was the right one. I watched a Ford Boss video that talked all about this and looked long and hard for the right transfer case oil. I went to six different auto parts places until finding the right fluid in Wallmart of all places. when I bought my truck I personally changed all the fluids. I used the factory manual to get all the correct specs also.
Yea, my bad. I went back and looked into my research notes and looked at my F150 manual. The transfer cases were spec'd for the use of Mercon ATF. The last time I changed the fluid in my F150 Mercon was obsolete and unavailable but was replaced by Mercon V which is what I used. Later I found that Mercon V was not acceptable and to only use the Ford Transfer Case Fluid so that's what I used. Ford no longer makes or sells the FTCF but now says the replacement is Mercon LV so I will use that the next time or SuperTech ATF. I stumbled on the SuperTech ATF a couple of years ago when I was changing the ATF fluid in my 4Runner. SuperTech ATF is recommended for use in Mercon (not V) and Dexron III transnissions (what I needed for the 4Runner) so I did some hoarding of it. So my bad. Your are OK with the SuperTech ATF in your transfer case.
 
Because I only do 5,000 mile intervals, I’ll probably switch to Super Tech exclusively once all the oils I’ve purchased on sale or rebate are gone. And that was pretty much my plan all along, however when I can get name brand stuff for the same or cheaper? I’ve just gone with the name brand stuff (Pennzoil, Quaker State. Mobil1).

But if the rebates dry up or I’m tired of dealing with them, I’ll set it and forget it with ST.
 
The “too good for Walmart” comments as well as what I’ve lately seen in the deals sub forum really don’t correlate with each other. Please spare us.

I personally use all brands and take advantage of all rebates. A few of my vehicles need A3/B4 oils and as far as I know, Walmart doesn’t have that here yet. I can get M1, Castrol, and Pennzoil for what a jug of ST costs. My tractors get Rotella T5, T6, and Delvac 15w40. My Blazer gets whatever I can get the cheapest, which is sometimes ST.

My Jeep currently has ST ATF+4. My Audi and Blazer have ST 75w90 in their diffs.
 
when you really think about how small a percentage of your household budget goes to motor oil, it is amazing how much we think about the cost. i spend more on fancy coffee in a couple of weeks than i do on motor oil in a year! but i do use supertech and change my own oil because i just don’t see any advantage to more expensive oils and i find it more convenient to change my own oil than dealing with an appointment at the dealer or the inexperienced guys at the quick lube.
 
With the recent article posted here from “Lubes N’ Greases” that reported several OEMs have requested an upgrade from API SP because they are finding “aged” doesn’t prevent LSPI as well as expected, there may be a reason to gravitate to premium oil brands.

There’s not much information about how “aged” oil has to present a problem or what’s causing it (add pack? fuel dilution?, base stocks?) but it’s just possible that Mobil1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, etc. may have more LSPI-prevention “headroom” than bargain brands. This OEM request seems like a pretty big deal to me and one TGDI owners should keep in mind by buying quality and not stretching OCIs.
 
With the recent article posted here from “Lubes N’ Greases” that reported several OEMs have requested an upgrade from API SP because they are finding “aged” doesn’t prevent LSPI as well as expected, there may be a reason to gravitate to premium oil brands.

There’s not much information about how “aged” oil has to present a problem or what’s causing it (add pack? fuel dilution?, base stocks?) but it’s just possible that Mobil1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, etc. may have more LSPI-prevention “headroom” than bargain brands. This OEM request seems like a pretty big deal to me and one TGDI owners should keep in mind by buying quality and not stretching OCIs.
Or does that mean I forget the OLM and go back to 5k oil changes … guess with an XG10575 - I can do one 8 quart and one 7 quart change. (have a Fumoto valve - no ramps needed) …
 
Honestly? I Pay a place to change using the oil I bring in and I am too embarrassed to bring in Supertech synthetic.
Assuming it meets specs it’s hard to argue the numbers.
 
Not trying to start a forum war, but I've been wondering, if you're someone who changes oil frequently, does it make sense to use anything other than SuperTech synthetic? I've never used it before, what I've used previously is Mobil1 AFE, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge Titanium. My goal is to maximize engine reliability.

Is there really any difference using something like Castrol Edge vs SuperTech (both 5w30)? If both are D1G2, SN+, and GF-6 certified, and you do changes every 4,000 miles or so, what's the downside? I don't mind paying more if I'm getting my money's worth, but lately everything has been around double SuperTech's price. So if there's truly no benefit, I'd rather not throw away money.

Engine is an FA20DIT in a WRX. I take LSPI very seriously and I also know TGDI engines like to shear oil hence the frequent changes.
Then there would be nothing to bicker about on bitog.
 
Or does that mean I forget the OLM and go back to 5k oil changes … guess with an XG10575 - I can do one 8 quart and one 7 quart change. (have a Fumoto valve - no ramps needed) …

Or maybe use the OLM but change at 50% or whatever is your level of comfort.
 
I was buying the boxes of Havoline that hold six quarts and considering the cost of ST and that extra quart I need for the oil change they come out about equal. I'm not really hung up on any particular brand but do have one or two I avoid.
 
Or does that mean I forget the OLM and go back to 5k oil changes … guess with an XG10575 - I can do one 8 quart and one 7 quart change. (have a Fumoto valve - no ramps needed) …
you don’t drive a econobox none of this applies to you
 
Not trying to start a forum war, but I've been wondering, if you're someone who changes oil frequently, does it make sense to use anything other than SuperTech synthetic? I've never used it before, what I've used previously is Mobil1 AFE, Valvoline SynPower, or Castrol Edge Titanium. My goal is to maximize engine reliability.

Is there really any difference using something like Castrol Edge vs SuperTech (both 5w30)? If both are D1G2, SN+, and GF-6 certified, and you do changes every 4,000 miles or so, what's the downside? I don't mind paying more if I'm getting my money's worth, but lately everything has been around double SuperTech's price. So if there's truly no benefit, I'd rather not throw away money.

Engine is an FA20DIT in a WRX. I take LSPI very seriously and I also know TGDI engines like to shear oil hence the frequent changes.
I agree with you. I use Super Tech or anything else made by Warren Oil. Like Costco oil. I also like Mobil 1 when it goes on sale on Costco. Guess what? Over 300,000 miles on my Tacoma. Oil change at 7500 miles with Hastings filter.
 
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