Castrol EDGE EP 20K Synthetic Oil Users ?

Whatever method Blackstone uses. Been using them for 10+ years, well aware that there are other labs that use different methods, probably should give one a try. However, my 2019 Civic was reliably consistent @ about .5% or less through many samples, all with 5k change intervals, the CRV, operating in essentially the same manner, hasn't had a sample with less than 2.5%, including one taken at 4200 miles showing 3.5% with the OLM indicating 50%, thinned just below grade as a result of the dilution. Perhaps there are more accurate tests, but the OLM showing 50% life remaining under those circumstances, indicates to me that I certainly wouldn't want to put another 1-2k on that oil. Honda's MM is an algorithm, in reality is only an estimate of oil condition and in the case of (at least mine) the CRV is seriously flawed.
Also of interest, my CRV forum won't allow further discussion of oil dilution, insisting that "Honda has solved that problem", but when my Honda dealership indicates "oil level high on dipstick" on the Multipoint Inspection form and has a pre-printed space for that, suggests that there still is a problem. I don't know of other manufacturer's small-displacement Turbocharged DI engines having oil dilution issues, but I'm fairly sure it's happening.
If you have 3.5% with Blackstone, the level is significantly higher than that. They do NOT measure fuel dilution, it's inferred from flashpoint and is assuredly wrong. It ALWAYS shows low relative to labs that use GC to measure actual fuel concentration and if you are seeing 3.5% I implore you to send a sample to one of those labs because that sounds like you have a serious problem.
 
I suppose that’s because you can do long range oil with a balance of certain base stocks and add packs - and things in the price range of Amsoil can do a good deal of both …
I’ve never purchased Amsoil, but I do appreciate it...how it tests, how it compares, what it supposedly can do. For me it’s not worth the cost because I just can’t bring myself to do an extended drain, and if I’m dumping oil at 5,000-6,000 miles, I’m not going to to do that with Amsoil.

My next oil change (coming this Friday), I’ll be using Mobil1 EP and I’ll attempt my first extended interval on my current car (10,000 miles), but I’m sure I’ll chicken out at around 8,000 miles.
 
I’ve never purchased Amsoil, but I do appreciate it...how it tests, how it compares, what it supposedly can do. For me it’s not worth the cost because I just can’t bring myself to do an extended drain, and if I’m dumping oil at 5,000-6,000 miles, I’m not going to to do that with Amsoil.
Where have you seen tests on Amsoil?
 
Yep, which is quite good.

The SN version of M1 AFE 0w-20 was 4,182cP:
Even though some say it doesn't matter...I would still rather have the 4182cP oil (Mobil1 AFE 0w20) in my crankcase than the 5800cP one (Castrol EP 0w20) at the winter temps I encounter in NY. I realize that Castrol 'passes the tests' but I'd prefer the lower cP synthetic...OTOH...I might prefer Castrol synthetics in hot weather since they usually run on the higher viscosity side for the grade (20 grades at 9 Cst). PS: I wouldn't run any oil 20k but I'd feel better having Castrol Edge (gold) or Mobil EP in my crankcase if I had to extend the OCI for some reason.
 
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Even though some say it doesn't matter...I would still rather have the 4182cP oil (Mobil1 AFE 0w20) in my crankcase than the 5800cP one (Castrol EP 0w20) at the winter temps I encounter in NY. I realize that Castrol 'passes the tests' but I'd prefer the lower cP synthetic...OTOH...I might prefer Castrol synthetics in hot weather since they usually run on the higher viscosity side for the grade (20 grades at 9 Cst). PS: I wouldn't run any oil 20k but I'd feel better having Castrol Edge (gold) or Mobil EP in my crankcase if I had to extend the OCI for some reason.
Yes, my personal preference is to use an oil that isn't dependent on PPD's for its cold temperature performance, that's why I like one that uses PAO. We've started both vehicles at -32C this winter already, which is close to the pumping limit for the 5W-xx designation and close to the CCS limit of the 0W-xx designation (-35C). Recall that oils are allowed to slip a Winter rating in service, this is due to the degradation of PPD's.
 
Why not just use regular black bottle Edge for 6k oci's? You're not gaining anything with EP in this case except a lighter wallet.
I am using the Edge black bottle for 10k oci and sleep just fine. It is a great oil. Heck most oils on the shelf today are great oils really.
 
There’s another one with them comparing test results to all the other brands. Pennzoil Ultra seems to do reasonably well. Redline too.

Here‘s one.

Not many valuable metrics there unfortunately.

1. ASTM D-4742 is a screening test for Sequence IIID:
5.1 This test method is used to evaluate oxidation stability of lubricating base oils with additives in the presence of chemistries similar to those found in gasoline engine service. Test results on some ASTM reference oils have been found to correlate with sequence IIID engine test results in hours for a 375 % viscosity increase.8 The test does not constitute a substitute for engine testing, which measures wear, oxidation stability, volatility, and deposit control characteristics of lubricants. Properly interpreted, the test may provide input on the oxidation stability of lubricants under simulated engine chemistry.

5.2 This test method is intended to be used as a bench screening test and quality control tool for lubricating base oil manufacturing, especially for re-refined lubricating base oils. This test method is useful for quality control of oxidation stability of re-refined oils from batch to batch. 5.3 This test method is useful for screening formulated oils prior to engine tests. Within similar additive chemistry and base oil types, the ranking of oils in this test appears to be predictive of ranking in engine tests. When oils having completely different additive chemistry or base oil type are compared, oxidation stability results may not reflect the actual engine test result. 5.4 Other oxidation stability test methods have demonstrated that soluble metal catalyst supplies are very inconsistent and they have significant effects on the test results. Thus, for test comparisons, the same source and same batch of metal naphthenates shall be used.

Full test details here:

2. Noack ASTM D-5800 has a limit of 15% for API oils, 13% for DEXOS. Many of the Euro approvals are 10%. I don't see how this correlates to fuel economy (there is an actual fuel economy sequence) but may have some importance in engines that get particularly hot where lighter fractions can flash off (see: turbocharged engines) but may have little to no relevance to engines that don't. Euro oils are designed for extended drains and a lot of the engines were turbocharged long before it became very common this side of the pond, so the lower limit there makes sense.

3. Pour Point. Not relevant, this is why it was replaced with CCS and MRV, it doesn't accurately predict cold temperature performance. Oils with PAO in them will do far better than those that don't here.

4. TBN. Oils are blended with sufficient additive to deal with acids in the intended service period. AMSOIL's lubes are over-based relative to standard PCMO's because they are marketed for extended drains (which normal oils aren't). This isn't indicative of anything other than the oil's ability to be used for extended drains.

5. CCS Viscosity. This is an established limit, based on testing. yes, it's nice seeing a lower number, but in the case of the oils in question, it wasn't low enough to qualify for the next Winter rating (5W-xx) down so how valuable is it? Again, likely an artifact of PAO used in the base oil blend.

6. Four ball test. Not relevant to engine oils.

7. Saves money. Well, that's not a characteristic of the oil, it's pushing the idea of extended drains, and this can only be done in situations where the equipment and usage profile allows.
 
There’s another one with them comparing test results to all the other brands. Pennzoil Ultra seems to do reasonably well. Redline too.

Here‘s one.

Nowhere in this, obviously designed to sell extended drain intervals, are any certifications like API, DEXOS, etc, mentioned, which means, in most cases, won't meet warranty requirements. The Amsoil website is remarkably difficult to navigate other than to buy, virtually impossible to obtain whatever certifications are met by their premier product. They produce "lesser" grades which are advertised to meet manufacturers requirements but I find it unusual that their top-end Signature oil is remarkably vague other than claims to last 25k, and that with numerous caveats. It may actually EXCEED, many specifications, and it may be a fine oil, so why haven't they Certified it? I suppose many who run 20-25k intervals aren't terribly concerned with warranty requirements.
All I want is a 0W-20 oil that will stay in grade in my CRV for 5k, but I guess that's a discussion I'm still trying to have with Honda without much success.
 
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Nowhere in this, obviously designed to sell extended drain intervals, are any certifications like API, DEXOS, etc, mentioned, which means, in most cases, won't meet warranty requirements. The Amsoil website is remarkably difficult to navigate other than to buy, virtually impossible to obtain whatever certifications are met by their premier product. They produce "lesser" grades which are advertised to meet manufacturers requirements but I find it unusual that their top-end Signature oil is remarkably vague other than claims to last 25k, and that with numerous caveats. It may actually EXCEED, many specifications, and it my be a fine oil, so why haven't they Certified it? I suppose many who run 20-25k intervals aren't terribly concerned with warranty requirements.
All I want is a 0W-20 oil that will stay in grade in my CRV for 5k, but I guess that's a discussion I'm still trying to have with Honda without much success.
You also might want to take note of the date of that "test"... 2008! Much has changed in oils in 13 years, why doesn't the great Amsoil retest? Maybe they haven't changed, maybe the others have caught up, or maybe because none of it will matter in real like conditions 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
Nowhere in this, obviously designed to sell extended drain intervals, are any certifications like API, DEXOS, etc, mentioned, which means, in most cases, won't meet warranty requirements. The Amsoil website is remarkably difficult to navigate other than to buy, virtually impossible to obtain whatever certifications are met by their premier product. They produce "lesser" grades which are advertised to meet manufacturers requirements but I find it unusual that their top-end Signature oil is remarkably vague other than claims to last 25k, and that with numerous caveats. It may actually EXCEED, many specifications, and it may be a fine oil, so why haven't they Certified it? I suppose many who run 20-25k intervals aren't terribly concerned with warranty requirements.
All I want is a 0W-20 oil that will stay in grade in my CRV for 5k, but I guess that's a discussion I'm still trying to have with Honda without much success.
If you have truly serious fuel dilution the only way you’re going to have an oil stay a 20-grade is to use a 30-grade.
 
If you have truly serious fuel dilution the only way you’re going to have an oil stay a 20-grade is to use a 30-grade.
I'm getting pretty resigned to that, barring any major revisions or revaluations from Honda, thinking that Mobil1 0W-30 AFE is my only other option with API/GF-6A certification. The 0W-20 AFE worked very well in my Civics, so the 0W-30 may be the answer. I've requested a meeting with the Service Manager to discuss this considering my extended warranty, the prospect of ongoing 3k OCI's and resulting expense considering the wildly optimistic Honda oil life indicator. The fact that their Multipoint Inspection form includes a checkbox to indicate if the oil is high on the dipstick tells me that they are aware of this issue and I'm not unique in this dilemma. I appreciate your input and I think you're correct, there ain't no magic 0W-20 that's going to survive 5k in this engine unless Honda has a magic wand.
 
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I'm getting pretty resigned to that, barring any major revisions or revaluations from Honda, thinking that Mobil1 0W-30 AFE is my only other option with API/GF-6A certification. The 0W-20 AFE worked very well in my Civics, so the 0W-30 may be the answer. I've requested a meeting with the Service Manager to discuss this considering my extended warranty, the prospect of ongoing 3k OCI's and resulting expense considering the wildly optimistic Honda oil life indicator. The fact that their Multipoint Inspection form includes a checkbox to indicate if the oil is high on the dipstick tells me that they are aware of this issue and I'm not unique in this dilemma. I appreciate your input.
As I suggested above, I'd get an analysis with a lab that uses GC so that you have an accurate fuel dilution figure to go to the SM with.

OAI (Oil Analyzers) is one that does, I believe Polaris does as well. You can get the OIA kits through the AMSOIL website.
 
Nowhere in this, obviously designed to sell extended drain intervals, are any certifications like API, DEXOS, etc, mentioned, which means, in most cases, won't meet warranty requirements. The Amsoil website is remarkably difficult to navigate other than to buy, virtually impossible to obtain whatever certifications are met by their premier product. They produce "lesser" grades which are advertised to meet manufacturers requirements but I find it unusual that their top-end Signature oil is remarkably vague other than claims to last 25k, and that with numerous caveats. It may actually EXCEED, many specifications, and it may be a fine oil, so why haven't they Certified it? I suppose many who run 20-25k intervals aren't terribly concerned with warranty requirements.
All I want is a 0W-20 oil that will stay in grade in my CRV for 5k, but I guess that's a discussion I'm still trying to have with Honda without much success.
I’d imagine they don’t want to pay for the certification.

As for your CRV, I think you know what oil you should try next...Tradeitin 0W20. Certified in every certification.
 
As I suggested above, I'd get an analysis with a lab that uses GC so that you have an accurate fuel dilution figure to go to the SM with.

OAI (Oil Analyzers) is one that does, I believe Polaris does as well. You can get the OIA kits through the AMSOIL website.
Probably will try the OAI kit as it looks like it will work with my Blackstone pump. Will try a sample at 3k, the 5W-20 shouldn't test all that different from the 0W-20.
 
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