I wouldn't worry about either of those even here in the frozen north. Both have been proven to be inadequate indicators of cold-weather performance.Just for conversation… I live in SoCal. Do you think I should care about pour point and cloud point?
Thanks… I do not worry. But does these tests indicate the quality of oil in any way?I wouldn't worry about either of those even here in the frozen north. Both have been proven to be inadequate indicators of cold-weather performance.
Sure. You can't achieve extremely low pour points using a Group I, II or III base stocks even with pour point depressants, and wax crystals aren't desirable for many reasons. But for me at least what the approval gives is sufficient for my determinations. Wax crystal formation is directly related to pumpability and the winter rating.Thanks… I do not worry. But does these tests indicate the quality of oil in any way?
The winter rating? at 104 FSure. You can't achieve extremely low pour points using a Group I, II or III base stocks even with pour point depressants, and wax crystals aren't desirable for many reasons. But for me at least what the approval gives is sufficient for my determinations. Wax crystal formation is directly related to pumpability and the winter rating.
What? My comments were about the pour point relevant to your question about being in Southern California. Not sure what you're asking here.The winter rating? at 104 F
Well… My thought is how a oil reacts at low temperature (below the xW rating) can be just as important as the HTHS above the 100 C rating.What? My comments were about the pour point relevant to your question about being in Southern California. Not sure what you're asking here.
Well… My thought is how a oil reacts at low temperature (below the xW rating) can be just as important as the HTHS above the 100 C rating.
In reality you do not want to go any where close to the pour point. Can I throw some of my un-educated bias into the conversation? Oil is always too thick on a cold start engine.Because oil performance is generally unpredictable below the Winter rating (so, for a 0w-xx, that's -40C), the recommendation is always to use an oil appropriate for the anticipated ambient conditions. That means if you are going to see -30C, don't use a 15w-xx, which is only tested to pump at -25C.
In reality you do not want to go any where close to the pour point.
Too thick for what? Cranking and fuel-efficient pumping yes. But the MOFT is high and that’s one of the reasons why the old “most wear occurs at startup” isn’t true.In reality you do not want to go any where close to the pour point. Can I throw some of my un-educated bias into the conversation? Oil is always too thick on a cold start engine.
Pour point was abandoned as part of the winter rating for precisely the reason that it failed to properly capture the oil's performance at low temperatures. This is why it was replaced by CCS and MRV, as, Quaker State famously had to pay out for engine replacements due to wax crystal formation in oils that should have worked fine according to pour point.In reality you do not want to go any where close to the pour point. Can I throw some of my un-educated bias into the conversation? Oil is always too thick on a cold start engine.
CCS is tested 5C higher than MRV.CCS is another cold oil test. The simulator need a minimum 6200 RPM at -35.
Yep, which is quite good.So I looked up Castrol Edge EP 0w-20 CCS at 5800
Why not just use regular black bottle Edge for 6k oci's? You're not gaining anything with EP in this case except a lighter wallet.Been using Castrol EDGE EP for the last 160,000 miles on our 2009 Rav4. Love this oil. Nothing scientific behind it just works for my application. Oci. 6,000 miles, 12 months.
No, it’s the one where Amsoil and Castrol are placed in containers, frozen to -50 (I think), and then poured at the same time. Then the Castrol doesn’t move and the guy puts a screw driver in it - it stands straight up in the oil - and he says...we’ve got a schtick in the mud.Is that the test where someone puts the jug in their freezer and later on pours it out and times the pour on a stopwatch?
True. I've actually been debating switching to the Castrol Magnetec, with engine getting to be older now. But each time I pick up the GOLDWhy not just use regular black bottle Edge for 6k oci's? You're not gaining anything with EP in this case except a lighter wallet.