ooops, not Penzoil, Supertech
Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry
- Thread starter zyxelenator
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Ok, so I got 2 bottles of MMO. Big one for oil, little for gas. I've already put in almost full quart of MMO to oil by little doses everyday. So far, I think engine runs better,easier.There was no smoke at start up today.But it doesn't mean that it won't come back in couple days like it did before. Will change out filter soon and cut it open if it's heavier than usual.
Okay so all MMO is in the oil for about a week. It's 900 miles today, since OCI started. Changed OCOD today, little earlier, while I have time. Swapped to one of supertech filters from a stack. Topped off with 15w-40. OCOD feels more heavy than usual. Left it in a pan to drip off all oil, and will cut it open when I will have some time.
So far, I think MMO is doing something. It feels that engine running smoother, vibration in steering wheel, is getting less and less, even with AC on. When AC is off it's almost perfect. But I think it smokes more on start ups. In overall car feels better and better since I own it. Will see maybe I will get perfect idle soon...and than will try to reduce oil burning, after clean up.
So far, I think MMO is doing something. It feels that engine running smoother, vibration in steering wheel, is getting less and less, even with AC on. When AC is off it's almost perfect. But I think it smokes more on start ups. In overall car feels better and better since I own it. Will see maybe I will get perfect idle soon...and than will try to reduce oil burning, after clean up.
Run the MMO for at least 3000 miles, keep an eye on the oil level. I'd say with all the different cleaners you've used in this engine you aren't far from having an engine that is as clean as it can be. JMO Good luck, keep the updates coming.
I did not read this carefully before. I think you do have problems. Your engine light coming on and having no oil on the dipstick is a serious problem. Putting thicker oil is not going to fix that. It could still be oil control rings or the PCV system i.e. valve and hoses. If you have replaced the valve, make sure it is OEM from Toyota. Check all the hoses which form the PCV system. Get new hoses or make sure they are not obstructed. Check oil level every single morning or night until you are confident that your consumption is under control.
Best of luck!
- Vikas
Best of luck!
- Vikas
I checked all the hoses, they were clean, blow it through with brake cleaner, just to make sure. I do check oil every 3-4 days, it used to drop to lower mark. Now it drops to middle or stays higher. If I go to long trip, i'm checking at every gas stantion. I have it uder control now, and situation improved. I also cleaned out all I could physically in chamber under PCV valve, including metal tube, that is not removable with hard but flex wire, also put some seafoam there, when I ran some through vacuum line and gas tank. PCV system is not perfect but much much cleaner than it used to be. I will go get EOM valve, when I'm done with Kreen, I have one from autozone right now.
Yeah and oil light obiviously flickered because oil did drop level during long trip, and I was not aware of all that stuff. Never happened again, and it actually trigerred all that, and me becoming a member, not just reader
Hence my comment in another thread "the last product used will be claimed as the culprit if and when this engine checks out"
I am more than apprehensive of using anything in the solvent line long term in an engine that for all intents and purposes was run almost dry.
The bearings and other stress parts could have sustained some considerable wear at that time and may not be far from failure as it is.
I am more than apprehensive of using anything in the solvent line long term in an engine that for all intents and purposes was run almost dry.
The bearings and other stress parts could have sustained some considerable wear at that time and may not be far from failure as it is.
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
PCV system is not perfect but much much cleaner than it used to be.
If your PCV system is not perfect you will continue to see problems, so if your engine goes, then we can blame your PCV System, which is not perfectly clean. JMO
PCV system is not perfect but much much cleaner than it used to be.
If your PCV system is not perfect you will continue to see problems, so if your engine goes, then we can blame your PCV System, which is not perfectly clean. JMO
I was wondering what the guys did to that car at little dealer where I bought it, that it was not smoking? I test drove it twice,it won over same age acura 2.3cl and ofcourse I couldn't see under valve cover because of stupid screen... Did they but very thichk oil in? I noticed smoke after couple days of using M1.
I was wondering what the guys did to that car at little dealer where I bought it, that it was not smoking? I test drove it twice,it won over same age acura 2.3cl and ofcourse I couldn't see under valve cover because of stupid screen... Did they but very thichk oil in? I noticed smoke after couple days of using M1.
Quote:
I noticed smoke after couple days of using M1
They probably loaded it up with thick goo, a couple of bottles of lucas, Bardahl no smoke, STP you name it.
Your lucky the car doesn't use a rear diff or that would probably have saw dust in it to make it quiet.
Rot holes filled with grease rags and bondo then sprayed with a rattle can, sawdust, thick goo, radiator and block sealer etc are all in some small shady dealers tool box.
I noticed smoke after couple days of using M1
They probably loaded it up with thick goo, a couple of bottles of lucas, Bardahl no smoke, STP you name it.
Your lucky the car doesn't use a rear diff or that would probably have saw dust in it to make it quiet.
Rot holes filled with grease rags and bondo then sprayed with a rattle can, sawdust, thick goo, radiator and block sealer etc are all in some small shady dealers tool box.
If you did not get from other people, let me tell you point blank. Go to the Toyota dealer and get the OEM PCV valve immediately. If they sell associated grommet etc, get that too. Without perfect PCV system, you are asking for trouble.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If you did not get from other people, let me tell you point blank. Go to the Toyota dealer and get the OEM PCV valve immediately. If they sell associated grommet etc, get that too. Without perfect PCV system, you are asking for trouble.
+1
If you did not get from other people, let me tell you point blank. Go to the Toyota dealer and get the OEM PCV valve immediately. If they sell associated grommet etc, get that too. Without perfect PCV system, you are asking for trouble.
+1
I know it should be dino oil and bla bla bla, but here is one more run, long one(4k). First was with double dose(2 bottles) for 5k miles on dino. This one on maxlife 4q and 1 q maxlife synthetic. Start pic:
After 300 miles:
next pic at 2000 miles, when I will change filter.
After 300 miles:
next pic at 2000 miles, when I will change filter.
Little update.
Went for a 800+ miles trip yesterday. With AC on all the time and 92% highway miles, with cruise speed of 75 mph, car used half of tank in 285 miles.Which is really good,for that age,size of car, and engine size.
Car puffed some little smoke today. Oil has more than 1300 miles as for today, and it's down to middle mark more close to max mark.Haven't top off yet, will keep it somewhere in the middle.
Had burned coolant smell, while stopped on gas stations. Will check all hoses again at 2000K mark,might be also old radiator cap(+looks like I overfilled cooling system, overflow tank is like 2-3 cm higher then max), when I will change out filter.
Thinking about topping off after filter change with 15w-40 Mobil Delvac, I do have open gallon of 5w-20 Valvoline,and same weight quart blue bottle of durablend, but I think it is more suitable for top off in winter time.
Why 15w-40 Delvac?Because it is very hot, oil shears down with usage and more cleaners in diesel oil.Another reason, I will fill up with it only at last point from my stash, since I plan to use G oil 5w-30 from stash for winter fill, then 10w-40 Maxlife for summer fill,Then 10w-30 PP(4 gallons).
Went for a 800+ miles trip yesterday. With AC on all the time and 92% highway miles, with cruise speed of 75 mph, car used half of tank in 285 miles.Which is really good,for that age,size of car, and engine size.
Car puffed some little smoke today. Oil has more than 1300 miles as for today, and it's down to middle mark more close to max mark.Haven't top off yet, will keep it somewhere in the middle.
Had burned coolant smell, while stopped on gas stations. Will check all hoses again at 2000K mark,might be also old radiator cap(+looks like I overfilled cooling system, overflow tank is like 2-3 cm higher then max), when I will change out filter.
Thinking about topping off after filter change with 15w-40 Mobil Delvac, I do have open gallon of 5w-20 Valvoline,and same weight quart blue bottle of durablend, but I think it is more suitable for top off in winter time.
Why 15w-40 Delvac?Because it is very hot, oil shears down with usage and more cleaners in diesel oil.Another reason, I will fill up with it only at last point from my stash, since I plan to use G oil 5w-30 from stash for winter fill, then 10w-40 Maxlife for summer fill,Then 10w-30 PP(4 gallons).
cool thanks for the update.
Nice update, keep a eagle's eye on things and it will be what it will be.
One additive you could try that has not been mentioned so far is 'Restore'. It comes in a silver metal can in 4, 6, and 8-cylinder sizes. It uses very small particles of copper and lead to 'fill in' worn cylinder walls.
I've read a fair few acounts that it works very, very well on some badly worn engines to reduce knocking, smoke and oil consumption. You might want to give it a try.
I've read a fair few acounts that it works very, very well on some badly worn engines to reduce knocking, smoke and oil consumption. You might want to give it a try.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
One additive you could try that has not been mentioned so far is 'Restore'. It comes in a silver metal can in 4, 6, and 8-cylinder sizes. It uses very small particles of copper and lead to 'fill in' worn cylinder walls.
I've read a fair few acounts that it works very, very well on some badly worn engines to reduce knocking, smoke and oil consumption. You might want to give it a try.
i tried it and it did seem to help a little but i would make sure i was done with the cleaning before adding restore.
One additive you could try that has not been mentioned so far is 'Restore'. It comes in a silver metal can in 4, 6, and 8-cylinder sizes. It uses very small particles of copper and lead to 'fill in' worn cylinder walls.
I've read a fair few acounts that it works very, very well on some badly worn engines to reduce knocking, smoke and oil consumption. You might want to give it a try.
i tried it and it did seem to help a little but i would make sure i was done with the cleaning before adding restore.
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