I have a feeling there is a mechanical issue here that no oil or additive is going to correct.
You are probably correct, but mechanical isn't getting fixed and I have already spent the money on the chemicals so that's what I'm doing for now. If it makes everyone feel better she is only getting SuperTech oil and Purolator Tech filters from here on out.I have a feeling there is a mechanical issue here that no oil or additive is going to correct.
No harm in trying. I agree I'd be using the cheapest oil and filters money could buy until I fixed or sold the car.You are probably correct, but mechanical isn't getting fixed and I have already spent the money on the chemicals so that's what I'm doing for now. If it makes everyone feel better she is only getting SuperTech oil and Purolator Tech filters from here on out.
I am giving the EC a full 3000 miles and then running a can of EPR when I change the oil. I probably should have done it reverse, but this has been a learn as I go thing with the advice I have been getting. Either way, if 3000 miles of EC and then a can of EPR don't show some sort of measurable improvement, I will probably stop.Have you tried the double EGR flush yet? If I remember HPL EC works at a very slow rate to work itself in full oil service life interval. I think a strong solvent flush would've given you a head start on this ordeal.
And yeah given the age of your vehicle and rate of consumption, I think the cylinder walls are oval-ed up.
Don't stop. This will take some schedule planning, but give it as long of a piston soak as possible with Berryman B12. From all who have done it with good results - 5 days or more with constant top-offs and hand turning of the crankshaft (a couple/few times per day) seems to be the key.I am giving the EC a full 3000 miles and then running a can of EPR when I change the oil. I probably should have done it reverse, but this has been a learn as I go thing with the advice I have been getting. Either way, if 3000 miles of EC and then a can of EPR don't show some sort of measurable improvement, I will probably stop.
I found this on a Toyota forum......2007 Camry LE 2.4L 2AZ-FE 153k. She has been fed either M1 or PPHM 0W-20 for just under 100k miles.
I figured I might as well document this here since BITOG suggested I try the HPL EC route to try to lower the oil consumption. I am not attempting a piston soak because 1) I don't have the time to let it sit for days on end and 2) with my luck I will wind up hydrolocking the darn thing.
Yesterday I changed the oil and it was quite black. She takes 4.5 quarts each change (4.3 quarts pan, 0.2 quarts filter) so added 1 quart of HPL EC and 3.5 quarts M1HM 5W-30 with a Fram FE3614 (so the total might be closer to 4.7ish quarts with the bigger filter, but whatever). Next I am removing 1.5 quarts from a 5 quart jug of M1HM 5W-30 and adding 1 quart HPL EC to it to keep the same ratio of M1:HPL EC to use for topping off the oil as it burns. As per HPL David's suggestion, this OCI will be 3k miles, with follow up OCI's being 5k. I will continue to top off with the M1:HPL EC mixture throughout each OCI.
Her last not-exactly-precise-but-pretty-close measurement of consumption was ~4.8 quarts over 3k miles, so we are calling it 5 quarts for 3k miles at 1 quart per 600 miles. After the 1 quart of HPL EC added to the oil change, I have six more coming soon. That will give me enough for 3 more complete oil changes and 3 quarts to maintain the top off jug ratio. If I stick to the 3k/5k/5k/5k intervals that will run HPL EC through the engine continuously for the next 18k miles. I expect/hope the switch up to 5W-30 to offset some of the consumption on its own, but down the line we can see if the HPL EC makes a difference.
I will report back periodically as things progress.
Nice, although I would have used 5W30 with the MMO instead of 0W20.I found this on a Toyota forum......
Hey all. I haven't been on here in years. I came back searching threads due to excessive oil consumption in my 2006 4 cylinder with 182000 miles. It was burning 1 quart every 600-800 miles. My wife drives it almost exclusively. She drives it like a grandma. I clean out the carbon once in awhile when I drive it. I'm always topping up the oil for her every week or two.
We missed the engine oil consumption campaign because our Rav wasn't using enough oil at the time to warrant a dedicated dealer trip. I'm am a former tech but haven't worked in the field for 20 years. I do my own work at home and bring the Rav in for warranty items and recalls at the dealer.
I had switched to Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic 0W-20, based on other people's recommendations. It didn't seem to change the consumption. Engine was tight and had no visible oil leaks.
I tried seafoaming the intake and adding it to the fuel system. No appreciable change.
I finally got fed up and dedicated a long weekend to it. I was near the oil change interval and was down a quart, as usual. I added a quart of marvel mystery oil. It says you can swap up to one quart of oil in a 5 quart system. I did that and put a large container of seafoam in the fuel tank with about a half tank.
I then went out and drove the car hard at highway speeds, keeping it close to redline for about 20 minutes. I basically used first and second great driving on the highway. The rpms stayed about 500 under redline. I figured I needed an engine rebuild anyway so who cares if the engine grenades. I wanted that sucker to get hot. I brought it home and it smelled bad from the garbage burning off.
I rechecked the oil and it was okay, although a little thinner due to the marvel mystery oil. I had the wife drive the car for another 500 miles until we were at the oil change interval. During this 500 miles, I had to add another quart about halfway through. I attributed it to the marvel mystery oil burning off.
When I was ready to change the oil,
I removed the spark plugs and sprayed a half of a can of Berrymans B12 chemtool into each cylinder. A total of 2 cans. I let that sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours, I placed some old rags over the spark plugs holes and cranked over the starter to clear out any liquid of the cylinders. Along with the Berrymans B12 chemtool, a ton of black carbon chunks came out. Make sure you use heavy rags because lighter ones will get blown away and Berrymans gets everywhere.
It took 4-5 short 2 second bursts to clear out the Berrymans. I then took compressed air and blew out each cylinder for good measure. I didn't want to have liquid left over in a cylinder and attempt a start, causing hydro lock.
I then changed the oil, filter and replaced the plugs and coil packs. Although I didn't do it, you probably want to add a few drops of motor oil to each cylinder before you replace the plugs. When I cranked it over the first time after reassembly, I could tell the oil had been washed away from the cylinders. The engine cranked like there was very little compression. It took a few cranks, but eventually the oil pressure built up and the engine fired and idled surprisingly smooth. I was planning on a new engine/rebuild/ junk yard motor so I wasn't too concerned about cranking it with washed down cylinders. In hindsight, I wish I would have added a little oil. Oh well.
Now the fun part. I usually filled the engine full on the dipstick, plus about 1/8 quart for a little extra safety in case I didn't get to check the oil while my wife was driving it.
The car drives smoother and definitely feels stronger. The city fuel mileage increased from 17-18 mpg to 20.8 mpg. It's been crappy since we purchased it new. The Rav TPMS is dead so I checked the tires and discovered the fronts were about 12 lbs low, rears 8 lbs low. We had a recent cold snap so that explains that. I imagine the fuel mileage will increase even more with properly inflated tires. I travel for work for a week or two at a time so I rely on the wife to check it. It's like pulling teeth to get the wife to check the oil and tire pressure.
So after 900 miles of driving, the oil level is down 1/8th quart on the dipstick. Interpolating those results equals one quart every 7200 miles. Even if I'm off 100% and it is half that, it is still one quart every 3600 miles. I am honestly amazed at the results. I have been checking the oil every 200 miles and am elated everytime I see a full / nearly full dipstick.
I was ready to dump the Rav for cheap due to the oil consumption. I figured I had nothing to lose. I spent probably $25 in solvents plus regular oil change supplies.
Maybe this will help others out there dealing with the same issue.
----The high RPM highway driving makes a lot of sense to de-carbon those rings ---
Good luck
I think the lack of highway driving is why some cars get the issues that they do. Weekends were always used for getting Grandma's car out,checking the oil level,getting fresh fuel,going.to Furrs and a car wash right before we got home.I found this on a Toyota forum......
Hey all. I haven't been on here in years. I came back searching threads due to excessive oil consumption in my 2006 4 cylinder with 182000 miles. It was burning 1 quart every 600-800 miles. My wife drives it almost exclusively. She drives it like a grandma. I clean out the carbon once in awhile when I drive it. I'm always topping up the oil for her every week or two.
We missed the engine oil consumption campaign because our Rav wasn't using enough oil at the time to warrant a dedicated dealer trip. I'm am a former tech but haven't worked in the field for 20 years. I do my own work at home and bring the Rav in for warranty items and recalls at the dealer.
I had switched to Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic 0W-20, based on other people's recommendations. It didn't seem to change the consumption. Engine was tight and had no visible oil leaks.
I tried seafoaming the intake and adding it to the fuel system. No appreciable change.
I finally got fed up and dedicated a long weekend to it. I was near the oil change interval and was down a quart, as usual. I added a quart of marvel mystery oil. It says you can swap up to one quart of oil in a 5 quart system. I did that and put a large container of seafoam in the fuel tank with about a half tank.
I then went out and drove the car hard at highway speeds, keeping it close to redline for about 20 minutes. I basically used first and second great driving on the highway. The rpms stayed about 500 under redline. I figured I needed an engine rebuild anyway so who cares if the engine grenades. I wanted that sucker to get hot. I brought it home and it smelled bad from the garbage burning off.
I rechecked the oil and it was okay, although a little thinner due to the marvel mystery oil. I had the wife drive the car for another 500 miles until we were at the oil change interval. During this 500 miles, I had to add another quart about halfway through. I attributed it to the marvel mystery oil burning off.
When I was ready to change the oil,
I removed the spark plugs and sprayed a half of a can of Berrymans B12 chemtool into each cylinder. A total of 2 cans. I let that sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours, I placed some old rags over the spark plugs holes and cranked over the starter to clear out any liquid of the cylinders. Along with the Berrymans B12 chemtool, a ton of black carbon chunks came out. Make sure you use heavy rags because lighter ones will get blown away and Berrymans gets everywhere.
It took 4-5 short 2 second bursts to clear out the Berrymans. I then took compressed air and blew out each cylinder for good measure. I didn't want to have liquid left over in a cylinder and attempt a start, causing hydro lock.
I then changed the oil, filter and replaced the plugs and coil packs. Although I didn't do it, you probably want to add a few drops of motor oil to each cylinder before you replace the plugs. When I cranked it over the first time after reassembly, I could tell the oil had been washed away from the cylinders. The engine cranked like there was very little compression. It took a few cranks, but eventually the oil pressure built up and the engine fired and idled surprisingly smooth. I was planning on a new engine/rebuild/ junk yard motor so I wasn't too concerned about cranking it with washed down cylinders. In hindsight, I wish I would have added a little oil. Oh well.
Now the fun part. I usually filled the engine full on the dipstick, plus about 1/8 quart for a little extra safety in case I didn't get to check the oil while my wife was driving it.
The car drives smoother and definitely feels stronger. The city fuel mileage increased from 17-18 mpg to 20.8 mpg. It's been crappy since we purchased it new. The Rav TPMS is dead so I checked the tires and discovered the fronts were about 12 lbs low, rears 8 lbs low. We had a recent cold snap so that explains that. I imagine the fuel mileage will increase even more with properly inflated tires. I travel for work for a week or two at a time so I rely on the wife to check it. It's like pulling teeth to get the wife to check the oil and tire pressure.
So after 900 miles of driving, the oil level is down 1/8th quart on the dipstick. Interpolating those results equals one quart every 7200 miles. Even if I'm off 100% and it is half that, it is still one quart every 3600 miles. I am honestly amazed at the results. I have been checking the oil every 200 miles and am elated everytime I see a full / nearly full dipstick.
I was ready to dump the Rav for cheap due to the oil consumption. I figured I had nothing to lose. I spent probably $25 in solvents plus regular oil change supplies.
Maybe this will help others out there dealing with the same issue.
----The high RPM highway driving makes a lot of sense to de-carbon those rings ---
Good luck
Supertech HM 10w40 might be appropriate here then since your just gonna ride it out with cheap oil. Maybe a little less oil consumption and blow by going thick.Update #9
200 mile check.
I realized I underfilled the oil when I changed it after I let it sit a little longer, so I added some shortly after and overfilled it a tad.
View attachment 208875
Buuuuuuut, not that it matters, because the mechanical issue people told me so.
View attachment 208876
WHOMP WHOMP.
So it looks like this experiment is over, because that is a lot of burn. I think I am going to save my remaining 3 quarts of HPL EC for my Civic, since although she doesn't burn any oil, she is not being driven much other than short trips so a gentle cleaning is probably a good thing. As for the Camry, I am going to wait until 360ish miles and add a quart of oil just to confirm things and bring this to an end. Eventually I might try a piston soak, but that won't be for some time since I doubt it will make a difference. I might run another can of EPR next time I change the oil just for ****s and giggles. Who knows? Since she is never getting the mechanical issue fixed, SuperTech will become her best friend.
I will do one more update when I top her off.
Supertech HM 10w40 might be appropriate here then since your just gonna ride it out with cheap oil. Maybe a little less oil consumption and blow by going thick.
At some point I will probably give it a shot, but I am admittedly terrified of hydrolocking the thing since I do still use her as my daily beater. I have watched enough videos where people either use a vacuum (which I suppose I could rig up some piping on my handheld shop vac to accomplish that) or cranking it with the plugs out to expel any extra liquid on top of the pistons... But I'm still not fond of the whole idea. With my luck I will miss something.I really suggest you revisit my thread on Project xB
It has almost twice the miles, and piston soaking/idle flushing turned it around
I would think you do the piston soak FIRST, to get things somewhat opened up, so that EPR and HPL EC can get in there to do more cleaning
Maybe mines an outlier, but with higher mileage and a worse maintenance history, mine shouldn't have been salvageable
B12 Chemtool is cheap, and surprisingly affective