68 plymouth fury oil recommendation

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Originally Posted By: mac9128

Also do you have any 5w-30 that you would recommend in particular?


Not really. I gravitate to Mobil 1, but Shell/Pennzoil makes great stuff too. Maybe better in non-synthetic. Yellow-bottle Pennzoil turns in some great oil analyses.
 
Took the fury out for a drive to my family friend's body shop. Made the hour drive there, parked and the hose coming out of the thermostat blew spraying fluid/water everywhere. He promptly laughed at me lol. He's going to give the engine a once over with one of his mechanic friends over the next day or two and I will share what they have to say. I told him about the timing chain and that I wanted to get that replaced and the other issues posted here.

I appreciate all the help. This project means a lot to me.
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128
Took the fury out for a drive to my family friend's body shop. Made the hour drive there, parked and the hose coming out of the thermostat blew spraying fluid/water everywhere. He promptly laughed at me lol.


Yeah... blowing the bypass hose is a smallblock Mopar party trick I'd forgotten. To be honest, it happened to me ONCE in 40 years of owning the same 318, so I guess I shouldn't complain. :-) After the years of sitting you described, I'd replace EVERY rubber part in sight if it were me. Belts, hoses, bushings, tires.
 
I've owned a few 318s over the years. My 89 ram had 450k on the stock engine,running conventional oil in the 5w-30 flavour. No extra zddp. These engines didn't have extreme spring rates to worry about.
My 96 ram with a 318 also accumulated over 450k on the engine,using conventional oil in the 5w-30 flavour.
So do tell. Would a zddp additive help the engines last longer? How about thicker oil,figure it might extend the 318s life.
First things first is change out the nylon cam gears,and settle in for the long haul. That engine will last forever with 5w-30,conventional,just be sure to pay attention to any possible fuel dilution because of short tripping.
I laugh at these posts advocating for more zddp and what not. The 318 is nearly indestructible using cheap 5w-30.
As far as fuel goes use whatever doesn't ping,and personally I'd use tc-w3 in a treat rate of 1 ounce per 5 gallons just to combat ethanol potentially deteriorating the exposed rubber parts.
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128
I looked on rock auto and new timing chain setup isn't that expensive, like $30-40 sound right? Never undertaken a job like that by myself so I'll talk to my mechanic friend whose shop I'm bringing the car to today and tell him I want to get that done first.

Also do you have any 5w-30 that you would recommend in particular?

Timing chains may not be very costly, but in order to replace one, you need a crankshaft pulley puller, and you often need a huge breaker bar to loosen the crank pulley.

In addition to the timing chain and sprocket set, you will need a timing cover gasket and front crankshaft seal. Some engines need to have the water pump removed first, and given the age of the engine, you might as well replace it.

Do not buy a discount timing chain EVER. Too many of them stretch prematurely. Also be sure you get timing chain guides if your engine uses them.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've owned a few 318s over the years. My 89 ram had 450k on the stock engine,running conventional oil in the 5w-30 flavour. No extra zddp. These engines didn't have extreme spring rates to worry about.


To be fair... you didn't name a 318 with a flat-tappet cam in your list.
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They went roller in the mid 1980s, and remained roller through the "Magnum" iteration of the 90s. But your point remains- even with the regular cam, once the initial break-in is done they're like a Jeep 4.0- very easy on the cam/lifter interface and the current levels of ZDDP in xw30 oils are just fine for them.

While you're doing a timing chain, just spring the extra bucks for a brand-name dual roller set (eg.: http://www.milodon.com/timing-chains/timing-chains.asp, part number 15011)

Doing the timing chain on a 318 is a little bit of a PITA- certainly harder than on a big-block because of the way the oil pan seal is done at the front and rear. Its a multi-piece pan gasket like a smallblock Chevy, with a rubber "C" shaped section front and back. When you do a timing set, you replace the front "C" and two small side pieces and cut the remaining pan gasket flush with the block and goop it up really well with Permatex Right Stuff, whereas on a big-block you just cut flush with the block and insert ONE flat gasket piece (since its a deep-skirt, or "Y-block" design). The water pump and most accessories have to come off, and the timing case is a relatively big aluminum casting (iron in older engines) instead of just a stamped steel cover like an SBC or BB Mopar. And its a good time to see if the timing chain case is corroding, as they can eventually start leaking coolant into the oil through a corroded timing case cover. Overall its no worse than the same job on a Windsor Ford or SBC, but once I got used to the "4 bolts and the water pump is out" simplicity of the B block, it was hard to go back.
 
Is there anything you think I should do while getting the timing chain done simply if the parts are 40+ years old and not terribly expensive. Maybe water pump, oil pump or things of the sort if they have to come off anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128
Is there anything you think I should do while getting the timing chain done simply if the parts are 40+ years old and not terribly expensive. Maybe water pump, oil pump or things of the sort if they have to come off anyway.


Give the water pump a good inspection- feel for "roughness" in the bearings, any hint of side-play. If it turns smoothly and has no side-play, I'd actually argue that you're better off with a 40+ year old water pump than the crummy junk the aftermarket is turning out nowadays. Unless you drop the pan you won't be within spitting distance of the oil pump, so leave it alone. One caveat, actually: if you get in there and find that the cam gear has started shedding bits of nylon, then DO drop the pan and clean the nylon out of the oil pickup. I'd still leave the oil pump alone unless you find incriminating evidence like a torn pickup screen, lots of gritty sludge, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128
Is there anything you think I should do while getting the timing chain done simply if the parts are 40+ years old and not terribly expensive. Maybe water pump, oil pump or things of the sort if they have to come off anyway.

Check your crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer for any cracks in the rubber or runout. Once you remove the pulley, verify that there are no scratches, pits, or rust where the oil seal meets the pulley/balancer. If you see any of those problems, replace the pulley/balancer ASAP, or you may get stuck doing the job over.

Also, it might not be a bad idea to replace your thermostatic cooling fan clutch. However, I have read numerous posts where people have received brand new fan clutches that were junk right out of the box. I would use a MOPAR fan clutch if I could get it, but if I couldn't get it, I would seek advice from other posters for a good brand of fan clutch.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The oils of the time didn't have crazy levels of zinc, either.

This is accurate. High levels of ZDDP did not start appearing until late 70's to the 80's from VOA's I have seen.
 
By the way those 318 had accelerator pump issue (carburator)so they tended to clog up everything quick .so keep a look out for that .(my father would say back then intake runner are too small .rofl.just change the accelerator pump seal once a year and your ll be fine.unless there are new one that last now a day
 
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