Came here to say this!
I've had two of these engines and they were absolutely fantastic with no consumption issues at all.
2015.5 Volvo 2.0l drinking oil like a drunken sailor
- Thread starter MaconPaul
- Start date
Came here to say this!
I've had two of these engines and they were absolutely fantastic with no consumption issues at all.
First off, do a PVC replacement. Then run it to a point if you see oil lose. If the same, run Redline Euro 5w-30 or Euro 5w-40 and see if the Ester will clean out the ring lands.
When it lost a chunk of valve, it is possible you scored the cylinder wall somewhere, which can cause a huge amount of consumption. I once had a small of piece spark plug turn a 4 cyl from a non oil burning gem to a gem burning a quart every 900 miles, on one cylinder. I drove the wheels off that car. By the time it died, almost 160,000 more miles later it was burning about a quart every 150 miles.
If it's not something simple like the PCV, I would trade it in on something else.
If it's not something simple like the PCV, I would trade it in on something else.
One would hope it’s settled out in the last year.
Consumption at that rate isn’t going to be effectively changed by choosing a heavier oil. It just ain’t gonna help. It’s too a big leak. If you wanna test the PCV, drive around with the dipstick pulled up 1/2” to release the pressure, but I don’t think you’ll see a difference. If there was crank case pressurization, oil would be blasting out around cam/crank seals. I suspect as one did above that this is a ring issue. If the backs of the valves were notably gummed up, that would support the notion due to the heavy blow-by being pulled via PCV into the intake tract. The catcon is probably doing its job and hiding the burning oil, but this will shorten its life. I hate to say it, but it’s time for a reman or a low-mileage used motor with some kind of a short-term warranty.
And, if the body is straight, the car is probably worth it. I’m one of those guys on this board that has solid respect for Volvo - have owned 3, might own another.
And, if the body is straight, the car is probably worth it. I’m one of those guys on this board that has solid respect for Volvo - have owned 3, might own another.
I concur with the PVC recommendation. It's certainly less expensive than a ring job. Rings allow the engine to burn oil for a number of reasons. Wear caused by long OCIs. Also, using the wrong oil can increase wear. The oil rings sit in the pistons' "lands" (aka grooves). Those lands have holes through which the oil drains back into the sump. Those holes can become blocked for a number of reasons, with overly long OCI's being the usual culprit. Oil burning can also be cause by a design "error." BMW built the M54 engine family from 2001 through ~2007. These engines were built in 3 displacements: 2.2L (not USA), 2.5L and 3L. The 3L engine tended to burn oil as it had low tension oil control rings. Why? BMW thought that by using these rings it could eke out an addition 0.005mpg from the engines. Wrong. Various "fixes" have been proposed. One that seems to work is the simplest and the cheapest: add an additional source of engine vacuum to the crankcase ventilation system body. This is known as the "02pilot mod." Also proposed is the soaking of the pistons in the cylinders with a chemical known as DSMO (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyl_sulfoxide). This seems to loosen up the crap sitting in the oil control ring grooves.
^^^^ hey good point. I totally forgot about this. One of my s60s consumed 1 qt every 1000 miles when I bought it around 100k. I did a couple of oil changes to synthetic and then started including half a can of seafoam every every change, at first every 5k and then closer to 8k. 30k later, it dropped to a qt every 3-4000 miles. Now it’s down to a quart every 5k. It gets changes every 7.5-10k. That had every indication of the ring buildup listed above. Easy to do, and half a can of seafoam isn’t going to stress it unless you are thrashing it. Use a 5-40 if it bothers you.
