Volvo Penta SAE30 Replacement

Boats have nearly unlimited cooling and oil coolers, with usually ~160F thermostats. They don't get as hot as car engines in my experience. If you exceed 212F in the heads/jackets you see steam behind the boat and you know you have a problem...as the raw water is boiling before it leaves with the exhaust. While marine engines are worked hard...they are kept cool if everything is working correctly.
Then does the boat in question for sure have an oil cooler?
 
Boats have nearly unlimited cooling and oil coolers, with usually ~160F thermostats. They don't get as hot as car engines in my experience. If you exceed 212F in the heads/jackets you see steam behind the boat and you know you have a problem...as the raw water is boiling before it leaves with the exhaust. While marine engines are worked hard...they are kept cool if everything is working correctly.
Agreed. If there really is a problem here it’s not the temperature. Even if it was that’s not the issue with mechanical shear of the VM.
 
Then does the boat in question for sure have an oil cooler?
most do...usually on the starboard side tucked under the head next to the oil pan.

 
most do...usually on the starboard side tucked under the head next to the oil pan.

So the oil is likely not getting dangerously hot. Any chance there's an oil temperature gauge?
I'm not really seeing any compelling reason to use mono grade.
 
most do...


So the oil is likely not getting dangerously hot. Any chance there's an oil temperature gauge?
I'm not really seeing any compelling reason to use mono grade.

I've never had one on a boat I have owned...but I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to add one if you wanted.
On a properly working cooling system, the water temp never gets above 170F...even run flat out. The oil cooler is in line with the coldest water coming into the boat, so I can't imagine the oil is getting all too terribly hot. I have never seen much of a idle oil pressure difference between a cool (I could never call a boat start cold, as it is always summer) start and after it has been running a while.
 
So the oil is likely not getting dangerously hot. Any chance there's an oil temperature gauge?
I'm not really seeing any compelling reason to use mono grade.
I'm not understanding the connection between operating temperature and being a monograde? He stated that the engine had a problem of mechanically shearing the VM, that's the reason for the thread. If that problem does exist then that's a compelling reason to use a monograde oil which will not shear.

Excessive heat would be a concern with the operating viscosity (grade) or oxidation resistance. But that's not what he's claiming.

Monograde oils are fine when you consider the starting temperature. It has little to do with operating temperature.
 
I'm not understanding the connection between operating temperature and being a monograde? He stated that the engine had a problem of mechanically shearing the VM, that's the reason for the thread. If that problem does exist then that's a compelling reason to use a monograde oil which will not shear.

Excessive heat would be a concern with the operating viscosity (grade) or oxidation resistance. But that's not what he's claiming.

Monograde oils are fine when you consider the starting temperature. It has little to do with operating temperature.
There isn't any connection between operating temperature and the oil being a mono grade. I was thinking about oil temperature for selection of 30 vs 40 weight.
 
I've never had one on a boat I have owned...but I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to add one if you wanted.
On a properly working cooling system, the water temp never gets above 170F...even run flat out. The oil cooler is in line with the coldest water coming into the boat, so I can't imagine the oil is getting all too terribly hot. I have never seen much of a idle oil pressure difference between a cool (I could never call a boat start cold, as it is always summer) start and after it has been running a while.
If there's not much different between the idle and run oil pressure what's that idle rpm?
I seem to remember boat idle being set a lot higher than car idle.
Say your idle is a thousand rpm, there might not be hardly any difference between idle and run rpm oil pressure.
 
If there's not much different between the idle and run oil pressure what's that idle rpm?
I seem to remember boat idle being set a lot higher than car idle.
Say your idle is a thousand rpm, there might not be hardly any difference between idle and run rpm oil pressure.

Apologies...I was not clear.
Oil pressure at idle is the same (~20psi) no matter if the engine was just started, or has been fully warmed up and running for a while. I want to say idle is ~650 rpm.
 
Apologies...I was not clear.
Oil pressure at idle is the same (~20psi) no matter if the engine was just started, or has been fully warmed up and running for a while. I want to say idle is ~650 rpm.
Sounds like the oil pump relief valve is set for not much more than 20psi or the gauge isn't working right.
If you really only ever have 20psi of oil pressure to work with it would seem like as an OEM you would really want a multi grade oil just in case someone was going start the boat on a cold day with straight weight oil.
I would have to look it up but I think the minimum recommend temperature for starting an engine with 40 weight oil is around 40f and straight 30 weight isn't a whole lot better, a bit below freezing I think.
I had straight 30 weight in my generator and I wanted to see if I could pull start it when it was about 20f out one morning and I could barely move the engine. Good thing the power hadn't gone out.
But if you know you'll never cold start your boat then don't worry about it.
Maybe check the gauge or see if 20psi oil pressure across the board is normal for these engines.
 
Sounds like the oil pump relief valve is set for not much more than 20psi or the gauge isn't working right.
If you really only ever have 20psi of oil pressure to work with it would seem like as an OEM you would really want a multi grade oil just in case someone was going start the boat on a cold day with straight weight oil.
I would have to look it up but I think the minimum recommend temperature for starting an engine with 40 weight oil is around 40f and straight 30 weight isn't a whole lot better, a bit below freezing I think.
I had straight 30 weight in my generator and I wanted to see if I could pull start it when it was about 20f out one morning and I could barely move the engine. Good thing the power hadn't gone out.
But if you know you'll never cold start your boat then don't worry about it.
Maybe check the gauge or see if 20psi oil pressure across the board is normal for these engines.
Did you misread his response?
He is saying the oil pressure is the same at idle at all times.
not that he only gets 20psi at all times.
This is what I think I'm going to do. Is there any difference between the Delvac 1300 I listed and Mobile 1 Delvac?
The delvac extreme is full syn.
the delvac 1300 is conventional/blend.(mostly group II IIRC)
 
Sounds like the oil pump relief valve is set for not much more than 20psi or the gauge isn't working right.
If you really only ever have 20psi of oil pressure to work with it would seem like as an OEM you would really want a multi grade oil just in case someone was going start the boat on a cold day with straight weight oil.
I would have to look it up but I think the minimum recommend temperature for starting an engine with 40 weight oil is around 40f and straight 30 weight isn't a whole lot better, a bit below freezing I think.
I had straight 30 weight in my generator and I wanted to see if I could pull start it when it was about 20f out one morning and I could barely move the engine. Good thing the power hadn't gone out.
But if you know you'll never cold start your boat then don't worry about it.
Maybe check the gauge or see if 20psi oil pressure across the board is normal for these engines.

This again, is just at idle. I get 40+ psi as soon as I increase RPM.
 
Another option that no one has brought up is 25w-40 marine oil. Lots of appropriate choices available with ad-packs specifically designed for marine applications.
 
Another option that no one has brought up is 25w-40 marine oil. Lots of appropriate choices available with ad-packs specifically designed for marine applications.
I haven't seen that in a long time. I guess someone still makes it?
It's safe to assume 25w-40 has less VM than 15w-40 so that's good.
 
Back
Top