2015.5 Volvo 2.0l drinking oil like a drunken sailor

[MaconPaul]

I bought a 2015.5 Volvo XC60 with 2.0l turbo (DriveE engine) w 92k for 30 cents on the dollar. It ran at about 20% of its power. Took it to a Euro mechanic who said it blew a hole in the #1 valve. He did a $3000 head rebuild and it runs great. He put in Liqui Moly Volvo spec 0w30. When the engine was apart he said it was a clean engine except the dirty valves. He also said the dirty valves is a known risk to these direct injected turbo engines . I hadn't read about this being a bad year for rings before I bought it. The car is running great. Unfortunately it is GUZZLING oil. At first I ordered more Liqui Moly to top it off. In a pinch the next time it got low I put in a Castrol 5w 30. The mechanic said that would be fine. I've since moved to a Mobil 1 high mileage 5w30 that is ACEA A5/B5 certified to top it off. My daughter is taking the car to Jackson, MS to live next week. I've put 6 quarts in 3000 miles. I called the dealer over there. They are following the recent Volvo update and using Castrol Edge Professional 0w20. No smoke is coming out of the exhaust and the car runs great. All leaks were repaired with the head re-build. I understand now this was a bad year for the new at the time 2.0l turbo Volvo and we are way out of warranty. No check engine lights are coming on. The cost of oil in this car will be ridiculous. The mechanic has recommended a 5k oil change plan. Several things I'd like people to weigh on. 1) what oil would you put in factoring in a hot climate, cost and consumption. Does Volvo spec oil really matter? Does ACEA rating matter? 2) despite no check engine lights and running great is it possible something like the complicated PCV system is clogged or a catalytic converter or does my daughter just need to deal with a bad year model engine and add oil every 500 miles?

 

[Astro14]

I'm certain that it's your PCV system. At 100K miles, I've had to do the PCV system on every Volvo I've ever owned. It's their Achilles Heel. The only way to fix this is to replace the whole thing. You'll be glad you did. Surf on over to IPD, great source of parts and Volvo experience. www.ipdusa.com For oil, YES - ACEA rating matters. Use an oil that meets your Volvo's requirements. P.S. it would help if I knew what model Volvo...V50? XC-60?

 

[MaconPaul]

Would your Volvo's not have check engine lights telling you it was clogged? Is there a way they can test it? I watched videos of someone changing a total system on an older one and it was ridiculous how much of the car had to be disassembled. What a stupid design. Changed one on a honda for $11 and took 5 minutes. It is an XC60. I'll add that to the post.

 

[TmanP]

Originally Posted by Astro14

I'm certain that it's your PCV system. At 100K miles, I've had to do the PCV system on every Volvo I've ever owned. It's their Achilles Heel. The only way to fix this is to replace the whole thing. You'll be glad you did.

PCV makes the most sense. I'd start there. With an unknown history, who can say? Failing that, assuming it's still drinking oil, living in Georgia/Mississippi, I would be inclined to go thicker. Perhaps a 5w40 or a 10w40? I'd start there. You want something cheap if you're adding it that frequently, so you could make the argument for a 15w40 (e.g. Rotella or even Supertech). Some might even say a 50-weight, but I'd start with a 40-weight and go from there. Probably 5w40 for the winter, 10w40 at a max? Even in the South, you'd be in the 30s/40s for sure at times during the winter. That said, every time I've been in the south, I've marveled at how thick the oil for sale is at gas stations, suggesting that people probably run the thick stuff in beaters/oil burners. Up here, it pretty much tops out at 10w30, maybe 10w40. I'm usually all for running the correct spec oil in a car, but not necessarily in a case like this. There's no way I'd be putting in $10/quart oil if it needs a quart of it per tank of gas. I'd go cheap and not worry. Think Supertech, Napa on sale, clearance oil, fleet store oil, etc. (As a thought experiment, a quart every 500 miles and 20,000 miles a year is 40 quarts of oil. If you're using an approved synthetic, that could be $400 a year in makeup oil alone. Cheapest oil you could throw in is probably $100-150 a year. Might be worth looking at that PCV fix after all...) All that said, I'd be reaaaaaly careful about checking the oil level frequently. Perhaps put a reminder note written on tape in the fuel door or on the gas cap so she sees it each time she gets gas? Bi-weekly reminder on the phone? Keep a case of oil in the trunk? Something like that. I'd be very easy to run the thing out of oil at that rate. That said, it's not far out of the warranty threshold for some cars, so it could certainly be worse.

 

[Astro14]

I think I'd keep a 5 quart jug in the car... This has an oil level monitor, doesn't it? Perhaps not...anyway...here's the OM language. SAE 0W-30 oil meeting ACEA A5/B5 require-ments is recommended for extreme driving conditions. CAUTION 4-cylinder engines only: Volvo oil VCCRBS0-2AE/SAE 0W20 is recommended for extreme driving conditions.This oil must never be used in 5- or 6-cyl-inder engines. So, ACEA A5/B5 synthetic only. While 0W20 is listed for your 4 cylinder, I think you're fine with a 0W30. In fact, I think you're better off with an ACEA A3/B4 - which has a higher HTHS....but it won't meet your low viscosity requirements... I'd buy whatever you can get for $20/jug until you get this fixed. Several 0w20 and 0w30 choices on Amazon...

 

[Lolvoguy]

Originally Posted by MaconPaul

I bought a 2015.5 Volvo XC60 with 2.0l turbo (DriveE engine) w 92k for 30 cents on the dollar.

Pay a little extra now, or a lot more later Don't worry OP, I almost recently fell into the same trap for one several years older. Luckily, all I lost was my $200 deposit and a little of my time. Couldn't imagine my stress level if I got it home and realized the headache that awaited me.

Originally Posted by MaconPaul

Would your Volvo's not have check engine lights telling you it was clogged? Is there a way they can test it? I watched videos of someone changing a total system on an older one and it was ridiculous how much of the car had to be disassembled. What a stupid design.

no, Volvo doesn't have check engine lights for that. You get to discover that on your own after you destroy the engine when it's run out of oil. Yes, you can do the "glove test" I did it to a Volvo recently. Worked like a charm and indicated the system was working despite the hardened hoses. Too bad it didn't indicate the leaking rear main seal. Upgrading the PCV system on these things is a real hassle. On the newer ones it hasn't gotten any easier because now the hoses and all associated connectors are plastic and become brittle with age and the heat from the turbo system. So what was a simple disassemble, clean and reassemble turns into a semi-engine rebuild. Please refrain from talking bad about Volvo. There are many on this site who stand by them, and i respect them for that.

 

[MaconPaul]

Yes. No dipstick. Dumb system. It has 2 settings 1) Ok 2) low It is a stupid system. 1/2 quart low will read low.

 

[TmanP]

Originally Posted by MaconPaul

Yes. No dipstick. Dumb system. It has 2 settings 1) Ok 2) low It is a stupid system. 1/2 quart low will read low.

So you get a low oil warning every 250 miles or so? Wow. At least that prevents some of the concern regarding running it out of oil entirely.

 

[Local Color]

t.ly/Ii2N or https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?584205-Volvo-Oil-Consumption-Class-Action-Lawsuit Class action for DriveE

 

[Passport1]

I've been a drunken sailor and done a few stupid things but never drank motor oil nor spent anybody else's money. My elderly Volvo has >300k miles and drinks not a drop 'o oil. Your car has a crankcase pressure issue.

 

[tig1]

These kind of stories makes me glad I stuck to the NA engine in my 2017 Fusion I bought three years ago. Not as much power but plenty for my needs. My 2017 uses no oil in my normal 10K OCI. Also watch those drunken sailor comments. I was USN from 63-67. LOL

 

[Astro14]

As a point of comparison - my 2002 V70 T5 has about 200,000 miles on it. It uses less than a quart between 7,500 mile changes. But I replaced the PCV system on that car and cleaned the block passages a few years back. It's been a happy car then whole time...

 

[antonmnster]

Reminds me of my parents' '84 2.2 caravan that could burn a quart every 150 miles on a bad day. It was hilarious. Maybe the rings got hot and lost their tension somehow, but I'd go after that PCV.

 

[tjbell]

It needs piston rings. As a former parts guy for Volvo, they need rings. No question. Sorry to tell you but they are a huge problem. We used to do 3 or 4 a week

 

[racin4ds]

I'm voting rings! ^^^ Try the PCV system as a cheaper route, but I'm bettin' it doesn't fix it. Volvos.... wannbe European junk made with left over American parts....

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted by racin4ds

Volvos.... wannbe European junk made with left over American parts....

Says the guy with a TDI...

 

[MaconPaul]

I’m bringing this thread back to life as my daughter is due for an oil change. Fortunately she walks to work and is barely driving. I found her a good Indy in Jackson,MS that will let me supply the oil. Three oil viscosity choices appear in the owners manual. 0w/20 for extreme driving, 0w/30 or 5w/30. The manufacturer has corrected itself this year w a memo saying 0w/20 for all these 2.0 turbo cars. There is also the Volvo approved classification which 2 Indy Euro shops have told me doesn’t matter. Lastly the ACEA rating recommended is ACEA A5/B5.
QUESTION 1) what weight should consume less oil? 0w/20 or 5w/30?
QUESTION 2) ignore the Volvo certification and/or ACEA class?
Overall goal is to find an INEXPENSIVE oil that reduces oil consumption (I’m going with the assumption this is a flawed ring situation that Volvo quickly corrected about 1-year after the launch of these 2.0 turbos)

 

[Kamele0N]

1) 5W30
2)yes...MB 229.51... Vw 504/507.... BMW LL-04...higher HTHS & reduced saps

 

[andyd]

5w30 dino / continuous oil change. If consumption abates go to 10w30 *

*This is hacker's advice given from a 1/2 century of driving heaps. It pays no regard to oil specs other than viscosity and price. Your daughter has to be willing to check and add oil as necessary or this car is a goner. A gentle foot is good too.

 

[addyguy]

Get the cheapest pail of a 15w-40 HDEO you can, and just decant it into 5L jugs for top offs.