When and how have you personally deviated from the car owners manual

The Sierra calls for 80 psi in the rear tires. Harsh ride is an understatement at that psi when not towing. I'd like to run 55-60 but get a warning repeatedly on the DIC if the pressure is below 70, so I run 70. Also get email notifications from the My GMC app so OnStar is squealing on me even though I didn't extend past the trial period.

My last 3/4 ton diesel called for 50 front/60 rear.
 
My 2008 Trailblazer says to use 5W-30 GM 6094M rated oil, and so far I've ran 5W40 HDEO in it, a mix of 5W30 RGT with 2qts of 5W40, and my latest change was 0w-40 rotella T6. I ran 0w-40 Mobil1 in a 2008 Malibu w/ 2.4 Ecotec. I currently have 20w-50 Castrol GTX HM in my mom's oil burning Honda Odyssey. I recently changed the oil in my dad's new to him 2015 Ford Escape 2.5, I used 5W-30 Mobil1 since I had a damaged jug of Mobil1 Truck & SUV 5W30 from the glitchmart haul that I needed to use up.
 
 
Tire size/pressures
Oil type/grade
Fuel/oil additives
Service intervals

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Doesn't the chart in the manual actually allow for anything from 5W-20 to 20W-50
It does -- I was referring to the CAFE recommended grade stamped on the fill cap. I usually ignore what's on the cap and instead go directly to the manual to see what's allowed for my climate.
 
The OM for my '16 Versa doesn't mention changing the CVT fluid/filters. When I called the local Nissan dealer about doing a fluid/filters change they told me they just drained and filled the transmission fluid and don't change the filters. Every 30K miles I drop the pan change the filter and clean the magnets inside the pan, remove the canister filter for the valve body replace it and replace the drained fluid. Since the CVT is still covered under an extended class action law suit warrant I'm still using Nissan branded fluid but when the warranty expires I'll probably start using an aftermarket fluid.
 
Shell Helix HX5 15W40 last summer. Technically not a MB229.1 approved oil but the spec didn't exist in the 90s. The requirement was something like API SH/SG or ACEA A2/B2. A modern semi-synth SN, A3/B3 15W40 is more than enough.
 
My 2006 Tacoma's manual calls for conventional motor oil at 6 month/5,000-mile service intervals, whichever comes first. I run full synthetic oil at 1 year/7,500-mile intervals, with an oversize filter. It has nearly 173,000 miles and runs perfect except for some piston slap during cold starts below 40F, that only lasts about 1 minute.
 
Shell Helix HX5 15W40 .......A modern semi-synth SN, A3/B3 15W40 is more than enough.
Yes it sure is, I didn't realise how good a modern 15W40 PCMO was until the oil formulator Joe started telling us about them in that thread you started previously. A good read for anybody interested

 
My 2006 Tacoma's manual calls for conventional motor oil at 6 month/5,000-mile service intervals, whichever comes first. I run full synthetic oil at 1 year/7,500-mile intervals
Good idea, I would do the same.
 
2017 Nissan Frontier-VQ40DE
Oil: moved from manual spec’d 5w30 to Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 because it appears people with D40 frontiers and pathfinders have had exceptional timing chain life and reduced top end noise at startup with that oil on the VQ Engine. I like the headroom when I tow in the summer as well (regularly 115°+). This engine is spec’d with 20w50 in the UAE market so I’m not taking a big gamble, I also have a similar climate to Dubai.

Trans:30k drain and fill instead of 60k because it’s easy and towing, also it’s a Nissan product.

2015 Nissan Rogue-QR25DE

Engine:Run 5w30 instead of 0w20 (I’ve also run 0w40) due to elevated temperature, short tripping with lots of WOT, and it’s used for my wife’s business so it’s actually usually full of heavy stuff and driven hard in our hot summers also because I have 15 quarts of RGT 5w30 in the garage I got for the truck.
This 0w20 engine in the United States is spec’d up to 20w50😳 in the Middle East so again not living very dangerously with any oil I put in.

Trans: drain and fill at 15,000 miles instead of 60k Trans fluid that meets Ns3 spec is cheap and it’s a Jatco CVT. Service is exceedingly easy to use and the car isn’t driven in a manner that CVTs like to be driven.
 
I use 0w-40 in my 18 f150 3.5 eco since first oil change.
I used 0w-20 in Durango 3.6L that calls for 5w-20, though now I have switched to 5w-30.
I used to use drain oil in a 1970's Nova I-6 engine. Not sure what viscosity it was. Not sure if I ever changed filter. Come to think of it, I dont think I actually ever changed the oil, just added more. Engine still ran fine when car went to junkyard.
 
In the wifes 2014 Grand Cherokee 3.6 and my 2016 Ram Limited 5.7 - I run 5W/30 Mobil 1 HM synthetic. Spec is 5w/20 but these engines were previously spec'd for 5w/30 so it seems to be a more MPG related change in spec than say, a newer engine designed from the start around a 20wt oil. The Jeep has 135k and the RAM has 107k miles with no issues and the last UOA for both were just fine.
 
I'm using 0w40 or 5w40 in the FRS even though a 0w20 is specced. The Subaru Japan website recommends 40w euro oils for hard driven cars so it's not like I'm just going with thicker oil for the sake of it though. For none performance applications I'll just stick with what the manual says, at least during warranty.
 
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