Valvoline R&P Oil Burner Test Results

[ndarkside93]

Yea, I was not pleased when BP went away from Top Tier. I emailed them and their reply was it didn't boost sales and wasn't worth the cost of membership. I still use BP gas and it has invigorate! BP also told me they didn't change their formulation from when they were a Top Tier member so that was encouraging.

I figured they didn’t change it. They had the invigorate before their top tier membership and I’m glad to know it didn’t change. If only there were other good options here. There’s a shelf about 15 minutes from me, in the opposite direction I need to drive.

 

[alcyon]

Why not use Rislone 4102 or HPL EC30 instead of VRP. I hear those also cleans piston rings.

 

[melk]

Speaking of brilliant marketing, how about the 20 quart VRP box for $176?

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/pr...ADRyAQ5e0PZj1sk7TSFhqxvzhpLgm&Viscosity=5W-20

Wow! Guess I bought mine just in time! Should have bought 2!

 

[ndarkside93]

Why not use Rislone 4102 or HPL EC30 instead of VRP. I hear those also cleans piston rings.

Price. And getting a fully formulated oil off the shelf with no need to add anything.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

If I ever get through my stash of other oils, I’ll probably try the VRP in my ’17 Accord. That is the only vehicle I have that I can really document any oil usage but I attribute to driving style and higher RPM’s since it’s a manual. It has done that since I bought it used 4 ½ years ago with 49k on it (116k now) and has had all synthetics since then, almost all M1 and PP various viscosities. PCV done 2x, BG EPR 1x, HPL EC30 1x, and I think 3 OCI’s now using 1 qt of HPL PCMO with the other oils. Fuel is either Mobil, Shell or BP almost all the time with random on trips. BG44k and Gumout Multisystem used probably 2x year.

Unless the previous owner did something crazy and the cylinders have wear, not much left IMO.

I need to see if I have anymore test kits for Oil Analyzers. My Pilot is on its first VRP 5W-30 use and will be coming up soon on 5k, mostly highway use. I don’t know what the UOA would show or a waste to do it now as it may have a small mix with the fuel diluted PP Euro-L that was there before.

@Glenda W. Go for round 5 on the VRP and see what happens. If It’s working get the UOA done and if all good stick with it. Thank you for all you have shared so far.

I’m all for the extended protection versions, reduced wear early and maybe afterward etc. You are a prime example of using all that “good stuff” and still having the issues. If the rings are sticking some they are probably adding some cylinder wear though the scratches and stuff may be much smaller and not really show on borescope. Death by a thousand cuts kind of thing. If that’s the case then VRP from early, changed at UOA supported intervals might be great for many, especially while under warranty. After that if wallet allows and UOA supports, other versions like HPL or Amsoil SS maybe be better. The VRP price as is definitely supports continued use IMO.

 

[4WD]

Price. And getting a fully formulated oil off the shelf with no need to add anything.

True - but I think Valvoline EP HM has the better formula …
(primary functions of a motor oil remain the same) …

 

[ndarkside93]

True - but I think Valvoline EP HM has the better formula …
(primary functions of a motor oil remain the same) …

I completely agree. I personally use Mobil esp for my civic but I put the Valvoline ep hm in my moms RAV4 when I changed it last week and the engine loves it.

But I was answering more in the context of his question which was about an oil costing additive or the engine cleaner from HPL (Good Stuff)

 

[Urshurak776]

@Glenda W. appreciate the results. I am finishing the second OCI on my sons Hyundai Santa Fe. His is burning maybe 1/2 a quart in 4K. Not horrible, but wanted to clean it up. Planning to change his oil next weekend and haven't seen much, if any, change after 2 oil changes with R&P. I just grabbed a 3rd, but was about to give up also. I'll stick with the 4 OCI's and see what happens. Thanks for the inspiration!

 

[Glenda W.]

Something I forgot to add. I live in mountainous terrain so severe service. Oil temps in the upper 230’s in the summer, 215 and below in the winter. 80% highway 20% back roads.

 

[ATex7239]

Something I forgot to add. I live in mountainous terrain so severe service. Oil temps in the upper 230’s in the summer, 215 and below in the winter. 80% highway 20% back roads.

This is critical. It could support why top tier oils didn't prevent issues for you. Operating conditions matter as we all know. We always hear the recommendation of “well, any old oil is fine for 5K OCI’s.” This would suggest maybe that isn’t always the case.

I’ve always leaned toward mid tier oils as the starting point myself. Unless it’s a beater or rarely used vehicle.

 

[ltslimjim]

65k miles; and the most relevant long-term use oil, was Valvoline EP. That oil should receive the bulk of the responsibility of explaining lube related choice to the deposit issues forming. Consumption didn’t start until 25k miles of use with Valvoline. (60k on engine). It’s harder to pinpoint use of the M1 at all (first 35k) and not enough data to say if Amsoil SS wouldn’t have cleaned up some of the deposits with continued use (hardly part of the problem as another poster seemed to imply?)…the vehicle consumption was an issue well before the single run on Amsoil.

How much is truly down to mountain service with hotter oil temps and which oil combination is most effective at resisting deposit formation; is the critical point of interest here.

Valvoline being not up to the task isn’t a surprise given it typically has higher NOACK and isn’t marketed for extended use. Not a knock on Valvoline. Could’ve happened with a boutique but less likely, IMO. It will be interesting to see if the consumption increases on other oils moving forward.

 

[Glenda W.]

65k miles; and the most relevant long-term use oil, was Valvoline EP. That oil should receive the bulk of the responsibility of explaining lube related choice to the deposit issues forming. Consumption didn’t start until 25k miles of use with Valvoline. (60k on engine). It’s harder to pinpoint use of the M1 at all (first 35k) and not enough data to say if Amsoil SS wouldn’t have cleaned up some of the deposits with continued use (hardly part of the problem as another poster seemed to imply?)…the vehicle consumption was an issue well before the single run on Amsoil.

How much is truly down to mountain service with hotter oil temps and which oil combination is most effective at resisting deposit formation; is the critical point of interest here.

Valvoline being not up to the task isn’t a surprise given it typically has higher NOACK and isn’t marketed for extended use. Not a knock on Valvoline. Could’ve happened with a boutique but less likely, IMO. It will be interesting to see if the consumption increases on other oils moving forward.

Agree. My gut says if I had stuck with FS 0w40 or if I had started with SS and stuck with it, I would have been fine. In the end what I learn will be used on my next new vehicle.

 

[panthermike]

Fantastic results, thanks for sharing!

 

[Hohn]

Why not use Rislone 4102 or HPL EC30 instead of VRP. I hear those also cleans piston rings.

Rislone will nuke your TBN. It's pretty acidic. There was a LSJr video on this.

 

[mr_boring]

Very cool @Glenda W.

I pop up from the basement once in a while to see what's going on up here in the oil forums and some things never change.

BTW - welcome back Mr. Kotter. We've missed you.

 

[Brian123]

Rislone will nuke your TBN. It's pretty acidic. There was a LSJr video on this.

I think he was talking about the ZDDP Additive from Rislone and not the 4102 Additive.

 

[zuluplus30]

65k miles; and the most relevant long-term use oil, was Valvoline EP. That oil should receive the bulk of the responsibility of explaining lube related choice to the deposit issues forming. Consumption didn’t start until 25k miles of use with Valvoline. (60k on engine). It’s harder to pinpoint use of the M1 at all (first 35k) and not enough data to say if Amsoil SS wouldn’t have cleaned up some of the deposits with continued use (hardly part of the problem as another poster seemed to imply?)…the vehicle consumption was an issue well before the single run on Amsoil.

How much is truly down to mountain service with hotter oil temps and which oil combination is most effective at resisting deposit formation; is the critical point of interest here.

Valvoline being not up to the task isn’t a surprise given it typically has higher NOACK and isn’t marketed for extended use. Not a knock on Valvoline. Could’ve happened with a boutique but less likely, IMO. It will be interesting to see if the consumption increases on other oils moving forward.

So a Gen 2+ DEXOS (I’m referring specifically to the NOACK values) rated synthetic can’t survive 5k miles in a run-of-the mill 175hp 2.5L flat 4 with oil temps between 215-230 without coking up rings in 65k? If not, then we’re all screwed.

 

[Glenda W.]

So a Gen 2+ DEXOS (I’m referring specifically to the NOACK values) rated synthetic can’t survive 5k miles in a run-of-the mill 175hp 2.5L flat 4 with oil temps between 215-230 without coking up rings in 65k? If not, then we’re all screwed.

The other half of the equation is poorly designed low tension oil rings. I have other vehicles that don’t burn a drop. It’s very engine dependent IMO.

 

[ltslimjim]

So a Gen 2+ DEXOS (I’m referring specifically to the NOACK values) rated synthetic can’t survive 5k miles in a run-of-the mill 175hp 2.5L flat 4 with oil temps between 215-230 without coking up rings in 65k? If not, then we’re all screwed.

As the OP explained, this is a vehicle with a tendency to have issues related to piston ring design. This is about comments in context not necessarily able to make definitive blanket statements as that would be irresponsible. As the OP is going to try a different oil to see if consumption increases again, it may in fact be simply that design issue in this particular context and not the oil. That said, not all oils are created equal for all situations. YMMV. Some oils “may” yield better results. How much lies at the feet of design or lube limitations is to be seen, though certainly worth a discussion.

 

[Glenda W.]

To add I’ve been in contact through DM with at least 5 other Subaru owners here on BITOG with the same problem. We’ve all been comparing notes and some were waiting on my results to take action. This has almost been a year long journey.